Timing Chain Tensioner

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If your chain has the straight style links, you can run a tensioner. If it has the dog bone style links, I would not run the tensioner.
 
Dicer said:
Cloyes sells alot of chains, and sprockets which number did you order?
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C3028. Not exactly their best but we will see. Some reviews say its a bit loose and others say something else. If I can run a tensioner on this chain would I be able to run the tensioner on the stock style chain. That's what I've got right now. I just hope this chain isn't too loose
 
Sorry its is a cheap chain, two sprockets and a chain for 33.99, think about it, read post #26. Me I ordered the Cloyes 9-3503X9 and it fit very well, it is a "TRUE ROLLER" but you pay the price.....

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Braeden Clark said:
Any negative affects.
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Only negitave to me is if it gets old and brittle and drops chunks of plastic into the timing chain and breaks a few links.

First hand experiance on a Chevy 4 banger
 
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I'm gonna give that one a shot. If it comes in and sucks I'm sending it back and using a tensioner on the stock style chain. I will have just wasted $7 on shipping but screw it. Unless I can use a tensioner on this chain? Not sure. Looks like a wishbone which somebody had mentioned may br a bad idea. Is it cause it chews into the tensioner?
 
Braeden Clark said:
Ok so I've made up my mind. I've ordered a double roller timing set by Cloyes for my engine. If that also ends up being too loose, I will add a tensioner. I prefer to not need a tensioner, but if the cloyes set is loose I will add one. Can you add a tensioner to a double roller style chain?
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It has to be a "tru- Double roller". Not just a "double roller' Big difference and cloyes sells both. If it is not a tru roller send it back. Usually a true roller has more then one key on the crank , They also sell a ("Billet tru-roller") This is a billet true roller in use for over 8 years and still tight.

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Yeah, my timing chain rule of thumb is if it ain't at least around or over 100 bucks, it ain't a goodun.
 
Buy Once, Cry Once. Think about the headache your causing yourself by buying a shitty Cloyes chain. It’s not the funnest thing to change out a chain in the car cus you have a shitty Cloyes chain in your motor. Ask me how I know. That right, I did that 6 months ago.

These are the 2 selections we use.





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Scody21 said:
Buy Once, Cry Once. Think about the headache your causing yourself by buying a shitty Cloyes chain. It’s not the funnest thing to change out a chain in the car cus you have a shitty Cloyes chain in your motor. Ask me how I know....
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Buy once ,cry once...love it!
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Scody21 said:
I was quoting you know who, that always said it. He’s since banned for life.

150 is way cheaper than 509 for a gear drive.

A gear drive is going into my 418 when that day comes.

to each their own, only one way to learn.
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Naw. He's still here. lol
 
Scody21 said:
Buy Once, Cry Once. Think about the headache your causing yourself by buying a shitty Cloyes chain. It’s not the funnest thing to change out a chain in the car cus you have a shitty Cloyes chain in your motor. Ask me how I know. That right, I did that 6 months ago.

These are the 2 selections we use.





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Ok to hell with it all. I'm buying an expensive chain cause f it. The 2 I've narrowed it down to is the summit one you mentioned and the comp 2103. Is the summit one a true roller? Was it a pretty tight fit? If I order one of these chains and spend over $90 it better be damn good. Thanks for the help
 
Scody21 said:
Buy Once, Cry Once. Think about the headache your causing yourself by buying a shitty Cloyes chain. It’s not the funnest thing to change out a chain in the car cus you have a shitty Cloyes chain in your motor. Ask me how I know. That right, I did that 6 months ago.

These are the 2 selections we use.





View attachment 1715873203

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Summit one says it only fits up to a 91 360. My engine is from a 2001 truck.
 
The type you want has a few features. First, I recommend billet, because the billet set will have less stretch. They all stretch some at break in, but the billet sets stretch much less. Secondly, a true roller set. That's where the connections between the links really roll independently. Another footnote here. You need to look for rollers that are not split rollers. Those are normally found on the crappy sets parts stores get and all the Chevy guys think adds 100 horse power. You can look at the rollers and see where they have a split. They are just formed right over the pins in the chain. You want full, one piece rollers that are typical on higher end sets. Lastly, I like the sets with nine keyways on the crank gear. Some think that's overkill, but it gives a WIDE selection of where to install the camshaft for best timing, rather than being limited to either one or three keyways.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The type you want has a few features. First, I recommend billet, because the billet set will have less stretch. They all stretch some at break in, but the billet sets stretch much less. Secondly, a true roller set. That's where the connections between the links really roll independently. Another footnote here. You need to look for rollers that are not split rollers. Those are normally found on the crappy sets parts stores get and all the Chevy guys think adds 100 horse power. You can look at the rollers and see where they have a split. They are just formed right over the pins in the chain. You want full, one piece rollers that are typical on higher end sets. Lastly, I like the sets with nine keyways on the crank gear. Some think that's overkill, but it gives a WIDE selection of where to install the camshaft for best timing, rather than being limited to either one or three keyways.
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Have one you recommend

Have one you recommend that has all the stuff you mentioned under $100? The Comp seems to have everything but the 9 keyways. The summit one mentioned above would be perfect but for some reason says it won't work on a 2001 magnum engine. The earliest it goes is 1991.
RustyRatRod said:
The type you want has a few features. First, I recommend billet, because the billet set will have less stretch. They all stretch some at break in, but the billet sets stretch much less. Secondly, a true roller set. That's where the connections between the links really roll independently. Another footnote here. You need to look for rollers that are not split rollers. Those are normally found on the crappy sets parts stores get and all the Chevy guys think adds 100 horse power. You can look at the rollers and see where they have a split. They are just formed right over the pins in the chain. You want full, one piece rollers that are typical on higher end sets. Lastly, I like the sets with nine keyways on the crank gear. Some think that's overkill, but it gives a WIDE selection of where to install the camshaft for best timing, rather than being limited to either one or three keyways.
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Have one you recommend that has all the stuff you mentioned under $100? The Comp seems to have everything but the 9 keyways. The summit one mentioned above would be perfect but for some reason says it won't work on a 2001 magnum engine. The earliest it goes is 1991. I like the summit one but I'm not sure why it says its not compatible with my engine
 
I like JP/Rollmaster. Summit won't have those. There are a few US ebay sellers that have them. They are a high end product from down under.
 
The pics in post #21 are very revealing. The gunked on, dried residue on the chain suggests that it was getting very little to no oil. If the chain/spkt had gotten a constant oil supply, there would be no chance of sediment build up because of the constant oil supply washing over the chain.
A very good reason to improve oiling in that area.
 
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