Timing specs

[Dalton697]

I'm trying to find timing spec for my dart sport 360, recently rebuilt the motor and it being a pain to get the timing right...pretty much stock motor bored .60 over with basically stock cam...thanks

 

[Desertpunk13]

auto or manual? this will make a big difference in timing

 

[Desertpunk13]

1975 and 1976 Model Years
Two versions of the 360 were produced for the 1975 and 1976 model years, the regular-production version and the high-performance version. The timing specification for the regular-production version was 6 degrees before top dead center. The specification for the high-performance version was 2 degrees before top dead center.
that is for the manual. for auto it is like 12 degrees

 

[67Dart273]

I'm trying to find timing spec for my dart sport 360, recently rebuilt the motor and it being a pain to get the timing right...pretty much stock motor bored .60 over with basically stock cam...thanks

Unless you need to drive by the emissions test, never time a smogger car for factory checks. Additionally, in all the years that have passed, the distributor may have been replaced, or modified, or even have something broken in the advance.

(All cars 68 / newer and in CA, 66 and newer are "smogger" engines unless the engine as been retuned and possibly EGR, etc removed)

Take the time to map the advance curve, get the dist. recurved or replace it, and time it.....................

Initial advance as much as you can stand without "kicking" on the starter or pinging. You want NOMINAL a short advance curve of somewhere around 20* AT THE CRANK. Most dist. specs are in DISTRIBUTOR degrees, which is going to mean half that 20* figure.

So as a "sample" you are looking at 15-17* initial, 20* "in the mechanical for around 37* total without the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance should be used on a street car for mileage, and it can add a considerable amount, say, 10-12* on top of the 37.

You cannot just crank up the "stock" distributor for more advance. "Smog" distributors typically had very long and very slow advance curves, so just cranking more in results in too much advance at higher RPM.

Taking care of this very important aspect will give you better starting, less overheating, better mileage, and much MUCH better low end, "launch", and drivability.