Timing.....

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360duster

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Hi guys,

yesterday i tested my new timing light, working good so far. What i noticed is that when i rev it the timing is retarding first and then it will advance. Noticed this on another car, too.....can someone explain why this happens?

For me the timing should at least stay there until the advance mechanism is coming in.....should not retard in no way. Vacuum port removed of course.

Thanks for Info!

Michael
 
hmmm, i have the chain tensioner on my engine, there should not be much slack there.

Only thing i can imagine is that the intermediate shaft will climb up the cam gear and cause this.....i have another distributor and will check with this one.

@Tony: that would be great....but i doubt that´s the cause :-D. As far as i understand the advance system, it should not retard at all. Am i doing sth. wrong?

Michael
 
Try to disable your secondaries on your carb. If it goes away, your seconds are causing the engine to stall slightly then start to rev up. This is a common thing on alot of four barrels with an improper tune.

If you stomp the gas, does your car hesitate and then a split second later come on like gangbusters? If so your seconds could be opening up too soon.

Just wanted to point that out since alot of times a problem in timing can be caused by fuel and vice versa. They should always be thought of as one system, in my opinion.

Also, I dont see anyway reason why the timing would retard and then come back up unless the engine was actually slowing down. Matter of fact, now that I think about it, if you have the vac. advanced disconnected then the weights should be riding on the pins. I could be wrong about that though. If thats the case, then I would think the springs would be too light.

What kind of distributor is it? Is it a factory mopar? If so, and your trying to get the timing to come in sooner with lighter springs, you may want to look at how much timing is "in the distributor" compared to how much your actually wanting. You could possibly take some of the timing out of the dist. with some bushings on the pins. However, I personally have never done that or read/seen it done on a mopar dist. Best bet would be to get a timing tape, look up DIY mopar dist. recurving, and either weld up the slots for the pins or use the cheap sams method of heating up the end of each slot, banging it with a hammer and 3/8th bolt, then grinding the slot back with a dremel until you get the timing you want. I have done that before, and it works really well.

EDIT: IDK if the OP checked all these things already, I just put that up cause its alot easier to check those things (along with the shaft riding up) before tearing into the timing chain.
 
4secondsflat.com sells timing limiters for Mopar distributors. I am running one in my small block. I thought I was going to have to buy an aftermarket distributor until I found it. I think I paid $40 bucks for it and it is marked for different options.
 
If you're concerned about the intermediate gear climbing up and down, you can put a lock collar on the distributor shaft...
 
Since you have a tensioner toss my first guess. I have used a digital caliper to measure gear slot depth, and shaft length to flange. Jos has a good idea, but some distributors can have too long shafts too.

If your timing light has dial back timing, that could be the cause. They measure RPM, to gauge the necessary delay. An offset in calibration may result in reading a timing error. A degree wheel is better, you can also measure timing on each cylinder to measure spark scatter.

I use locked rotor and electronic advance. Twisting the rotor is a way to check slop. A dial indicator can be used to check rotation if rotor tip, while crank is carefully tweaked to check for back lash, again with degree wheel.
 
Kit, could be that the electronics of the timing light cause the delay....I have tape on the damper, too, will check both. Thanks!

Michael
 
Sometimes even though disconnected, the vacuum advance bounces around in the distributor. Does the timing mark on the balancer bounce around too? I switched to a MSD billet distributor and the timing mark is now rock solid.
 
Before we start re-engineering the distributor (which IS suspect) I'd make sure it's not the light

Is this a "dial up" light? If so, I'd check the timing with an ordinary "non delay" timing light and see what it does.
 
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