Tips on inspecting/buying a 40 year old car?

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Trevor B

Trevor B

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I am planning on looking at a '73 Scamp and wonder if you guys have any advice or things to watch out for. I realize that the fact that he confuses "Dodge Duster" and the like means he probably is not on this forum...

Here's the ad:

1973 PLYMOUTH SCAMP. All original V8 318 classic cruiser. One family owner -- I bought this from my great aunt many years ago and have all original servicing paperwork. I'm in no rush to sell. It's been aging like a fine wine under a car cover and regularly started. This is Plymouth's version of a Dodge Duster and a variation on the Valiant. If you are looking for a PURE and UNTOUCHED classic car with only 79,000 original miles, this is your project.

Recently serviced with 4 new tires and new battery
Power steering and air conditioning
Automatic transmission
Original cream yellow paint. Original trim with some nicks on body.
Re-upholstered front/ rear bench seats and new black hardtop
The Interior is clean. Some cracks on the dash.
Door Panels and dash are original and look good.
Lights, turn signals and dash lights are all in working order.
Original radio is in place but does not work.
The floor pans and trunk are free of any major rust and are in good condition.
The engine compartment looks good and all hoses, wires etc are in working condition.
Added dual flowmasters with minimal under-body rust
California Clean and Clear Title. Mileage on Odometer 79,000

Overall this is a very clean car in working mechanical condition and is ready for its next chapter with someone willing to give it love.

Asking $5,000 or best offer.

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Here are some pictures:
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Additionally, the seller provided me with some more information in an email when I asked about whether it was registered, about the brakes, etc.:

"It's registered and gets driven once every 6 months or so. Breaks are original and I believe you are right... Disc in front/ drum in back... They are sensitive and take getting used to. Not sure about the Flowmasters. I put them in 20 years ago."

- and -

"She's a great car that drives well and will need a little TLC in the coming years.
The car was bought new by my great uncle and sat covered in Bakersfield driving to the grocery store and back until 1991 or so. Then, my (younger) uncle took ownership and shortly thereafter I bought it around 1995.

It has a 2 bbl carb - probably original. By TLC, i mean - it's 40+ years old and has never been rebuilt. She starts every time after doing my few tricks. The engine loves to run but the suspension and such bounces like the cruiser she is. Breaks have always been touchy but you know how that goes if you remember the duster breaks." [I mentioned my 73 Duster]

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Any things to watch out for?
Does it seem like a good deal?

Thanks!
 
Nice car, and not overpriced like so many other offerings out there! As usual with any old car, the less they're driven, the more seals will dry out and crack and break apart! I would expect that a valve seal job and maybe a trans rebuild would be in the future as you drove it more than he has! Other than that, look for any rust on the underbody, as cars that sit outside covered up tend to wick up moisture from underneath and can rust out the structure from underneath!

Should be a good little car, and priced right in the range for a survivor!! Geof
 
Man that looks just like a 73 Scamp I bought about 10 years ago. Before you read any further, it is definitely NOT it. Anyway, everything checked out. There was very little bondo in the normal areas. Good looking little car. It was not until I rode behind it that I found the problem. The rear end was not lined up with the front. Somebody did a good job covering up that little fact. Ugggggg! I have not bought another old car since, but if I ever do, I am going to take a ride behind it if I get a chance.
 
I am only asking this out of ignorance. Why is the master cylinder and wiper motor so rusty?
 
Tip on buying 40 year old car, get someone 60 to look at it

The car actually looks good in the pictures

The rust on components under the hood doesn't look good but is there rust anywhere else, under the car, interior metal?

Really looking at a car no matter the age it is basicly the same, look for damage, cheap fixes, fluids, any service records.

If it is a rust free California car and $5,000 asking price I would look at it if looking for a car
 
Thanks for the responses, good stuff here.

That's a pretty good tip about driving behind - I'd forgotten about that one.
I will certainly take a very close look everywhere inside and out and under for rust on the body.

I will say this: I replaced my master cylinder and brake booster with brand new parts on my Duster and the master cylinder is already rusty looking only 2 months later!

I talked to the guy for quite a while just now and he was pretty nice. He was honest about some "small drips" from the transmission. I'm guessing it needs a seal replaced (probably dried up, like Geof mentioned above).

Also, he said he has complete records and offered to put me in touch with the service station that has done all his work.
 
Yep, from the pictures it looks like a nice car. And the price is reasonable.

Just take your time looking all around the car with a "critical eye". I learned to give a good visual overview while fixing radios in the Air Force. It's amazing what you can find if you "look"!!!!!
 
67dart_drop_top said:
It was not until I rode behind it that I found the problem. The rear end was not lined up with the front. Somebody did a good job covering up that little fact. Ugggggg! I have not bought another old car since, but if I ever do, I am going to take a ride behind it if I get a chance.
Click to expand...

Yup - my Dad taught me to stand in the street and have somebody drive the car away from me to look to see if it's going down the road 'dog fashion' (back end kicked out to one side)
 
When I bought my Dart, it had been sitting for quite some time.
Some things I had to do almost right away,
Shocks, all 4.
Sway bar links, and I inspected and replaced anything that was rubber on the suspension.
If the brakes are touchy, I'm willing to bet that a rear set of shoes are hanging up.
Look at the frame, the torsion bar boxes and the leaf springs mounts. Both are areas that are prone to rust and rot.
The good news, alot of those cars had factory undercoating. The bad, just as many didn't. So if you look under there and see really old undercoating, don't be surprised.
There will be things that break and generally make you nuts. Don't sweat it, most are easily found if you ask.
One thing I did see, a tan distributor cap. It's either original or it hasn't been changed in a while. So I'd say a tune up is in short order.
The rusty booster and other parts, unless they're trailer queens, it's an affliction they all seem to get. Call it patina. Nothing a little steel wool and time wont fix.
$5K is about right, so you're not getting taken. If the car is what is advertised then I'd say you found a good car.
 
As someone from California, I think $5,000 is a little high.

$4,000. And mention the brake safety problem. You fixed your brake problem on your Duster that would have cost $400 for a shop to fix. And "suspension and such bounces like the cruiser she is"... The needs shocks and suspension work. Another $400-$600 for a shop to fix. Drive it first. Note to your self how bad the suspension is and brakes. If its worse that described, mention that. If it's not as bad as he states, re-state what he said. Then mention the itemized cost of brake work and separate cost of suspension work. Let him total the two in his head, because saying it needs $1000 worth of work total is too overpowering and will make him standoffish.

It's a column shift, 318, A/C, bland color, bench seat Scamp. Not extremely desirable combo. And since this will be your second (at least) Mopar at the moment your in the seat to deal. Play it cool.

Unless you plan to replace your Duster with this car cause this ones in better shape?

Is that the picture or is there something going on in front of the driver rear wheel molding in the 3rd picture?
 
My biggest tip is buy for the body. The better the body is, the happier you will be.
 
When I was needing to look at a Road Runner about a 1000 miles away, I called a repair shop that was local to the guy. I offered him a $100 to put it up on a lift, check it out and drive it. Guy called back with nothing but praise and even told me not to worry about the $100. He said it was a pleasure driving it.

I know I just got lucky to find someone like that, but man that car was nice. $10,500 for a great running 383 4 speed RR clone. 10 years ago. Can't find those deals anymore.
 
See if he will let you put a hose to it. If he does, wiper pivots ( look under the dash while someone hoses the windshield/cowl area) door seals, and see if the trunk seal well. Ask me how I know. Check underneath on a lift. Many cars were parked on the grass next to the driveway, especially if they were a second or third car. This was never kind to the underside. Looks like a solid car from the pics. Good luck
 
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