Title mismatching Vin

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beebeeri000

beebeeri000

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Hi guys, so I was looking at picking up a '78 honda goldwing gl1000. The only problem I'm running into is that the title is the right year, make, and model but the Vin is off. What I've been told is that this was bought at an estate sale in a pair of 2 '78 honda goldwing gl1000's. Now I'm not completely sure what to do, the seller went to Oregon state patrol to get the Vin checked to see if it was stolen and they reported that it wasn't stolen. I wanted to get it checked by wa state (where the title is) personally but the dol said that they will only run a Vin if it's been reported stolen and someone is trying to register it. I was gonna see about getting the seller to apply for a lost title with the right Vin because the right title is lost, but wa state requires the paperwork to be notarized. Now I'm not sure about what to do.
 
Run, don't buy somebody's problem.

Tell them to call you when the title is clean.
 
The bike has 2 VINS
1) on the steering neck is a metal plaque, with the number etched or printed on it,
2) beside the plaque is usually a stamped-in-the-frame serial number,painted over and often hard to read.
3) if there is no stamped-in-the-frame number on the neck, then, there is usually a number stamped-in-the-frame, somewhere near the drivers left foot, also painted over.
The numbers have to match. They are 17 digits long. They are stamped all in a row,equally spaced , by a machine, and always look perfect.

Having worked in HONDA dealership for many years, I have to tell you, that those early GLs, IMO, are not (gently spoken) that desireable.They come with a host of age related problems.If you are handy with metric tools,and have a love for those,perhaps for you it would be better that I had not said anything. For me, it would have to be in perfect working order, have a repair history, and be very low priced indeed.
That said, if I was your neighbour, I would encourage you to buy it, as I think I would see you in my shop, a lot. And no, free beer is not a bargaining tool.
 
Seller (if his story is true) needs to remedy the situation with the state before selling it.

Never buy anything with bogus paperwork.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The bike has 2 VINS
1) on the steering neck is a metal plaque, with the number etched or printed on it,
2) beside the plaque is usually a stamped-in-the-frame serial number,painted over and often hard to read.
3) if there is no stamped-in-the-frame number on the neck, then, there is usually a number stamped-in-the-frame, somewhere near the drivers left foot, also painted over.
The numbers have to match. They are 17 digits long. They are stamped all in a row,equally spaced , by a machine, and always look perfect.

Having worked in HONDA dealership for many years, I have to tell you, that those early GLs, IMO, are not (gently spoken) that desireable.They come with a host of age related problems.For me, it would have to be in perfect working order, have a repair history, and be very low priced indeed.
That said, if I was your neighbour, I would encourage you to buy it, as I think I would see you in my shop, a lot. And no, free beer is not a bargaining tool.
Click to expand...

Lol this is what I was thinking are might have saw the engine serial and thought that was Vin, thanks for telling me where the frame Vin is around cause when I was looking for where it is i couldnt find anywhere that said where it was. What main problems did you usually see with this? I'm looking at it for my first price but I still got to check out it and the paperwork in person
 
Theyre old. Theyre tired.Theyre usually worn out. They often cost two or three times what they are worth to get safe,and reliable,again.

They usually need; some, most, or all, of the following;
Anything rubber,any and all chassis bearings and bushings,U-joints and or slip-joints, a differential rebuild,some or all lights, a battery, possibly/probably the alternator, a regulator and new wiring, or regulator wiring repairs,anything or everything to do with brakes, A timing belt, a full carb overhaul,an ignition tune-up, a valve job,all fluids and filters,a waterpump,a windscreen,possibly/probably a full exhaust system,A full suspension rebuild, many wiring repairs,etc.....

Dozens and dozenz of hours,and a couple to several thousands of CAN dollars. I have done a few of these,for the dealer,and seen the bill rise to over $4000Can. Some customers dont seem to care too much about the cost. But I recall at least one job that the customer bailed on, and another that the customer took many months to finally make the last payment on. All of our customers were given a detailed estimate, and after a full tear-down, a Quote.
 
Hmm well the reason why I'm. Looking at this one is because it's in my price range (he wants 350) and I like the fact that the engine is like a small H4. Do you have any recommendations for a first bike from working for honda?
 
Did you say 1st bike?
Oh boy.
For a GL to be a first bike I think you would almost have to be in exceptionally good physical condition. The early ones do have a low seat, but the running boards make keeping it up, a bit of a chore for first-timers.And if it gets over just a bit too far, you better have strong legs, cause its wanting to lie down in a hurry. And once its down, you will need a strong back,strong legs and arms and some strong fingers, to get it back up.
Im assuming that you already have a bike license? That would mean you already know how to ride? And since you even contemplated a GL, you must be in good shape or young or both? And because your budget is so low; im guessing youre very young, and possibly still in school? Am I close?
If yeses to all, I cant help you.
I might suggest a small twin. A city bike.But I have no idea as to your needs,or desires.
I guess a trip to the bike-shop would be a good idea. Sit on some stuff,see what feels good. Stay away from fast,racy lookin stuff.Those bikes can kill or maim even seasoned riders.You dont have to buy anything. Just browsing we used to say.
If you are a little older, a cruiser might fill the bill. Perhaps a Shadow550. Low seat.Low CG. Fun. Torquey. As quick as a stock 340 Swinger, in at least two or three gears.
 
id be using it mainly just to ride around on for fun and maybe a trip to school every while . i dont got my license yet, i was gonna go the route of getting the permit before taking the class. i completely forgot how easily it'd want to tip over, but what im trying to find is something like a cafe race look or maybe like a small supermoto bike cause those are light but definitely not a sports bike those are way out of my price range and i feel like id defiantly kill myself if i had one as my first bike. in my price range there's ALOT of 2 stroke stuff but i defiantly wanna go for a four stroke.
 
You can buy a nice running one for 1500 or so around here, unless it is really low mileage. Go with a properly titled one. The 78' model was particularly cursed with a weak clutch, carbs that cost 600-700 to rebuild, and brakes that are weak due to the age. corrosion in the calipers, lines etc. I would look for a nice 80-84 GL1100, or a newer 1200. they are a much better bike. Heavy, yes. It just takes practice. I bought my first wing in 1976, and still own an 80' GL1100 today.
 
Supermotos are very powerful little machines. They also have a high CG and a very high saddle. They are not a first bike.
A long time ago(in the 80s I think), there was a popular class of bike. We called them posers. They looked like cafe racers, but they were 125s. Nice little citybikes. 4-strokers.Enough power for bombing around town. 80 mpg or more. Leave your ego at home.First bikes. I seem to remember they were Kawasakis. I think Honda revived that class in the early 2000s.
Then there was the nice looking cruisers; like the Shadows,Viragos, Suzuki GLs, and my favorites, the Kawasaki LTDs. Most of these come in several displacements from 250 to 1100.
The Suzys were heavier and higher than most, but solid motors.
Stay away from Viragos. Theyre really nice looking, but money-pits.
The shadows are nice but the V-style engines can be troublesome
That leaves the LTDs.These are solid thru and thru.But the engines shed their gold paint, and end up looking a bit ratty.The 4 cylinders are dynomite; smooth,reliable,quiet,easy to work on. Theyre not power houses. Theyre tractors. Perfect for first bikes.The twins are ok too, but like almost all twins,the power pulses take a little getting used to, and theyre small displacements put them at a huge disadvantage on the highway.
Those LTDS came in 250,400,550,750,1000,and1100, sizes.I believe the 250/400s were twins, and the rest were 4s. I could picture you on a 400, or the 550.If you wanna burn rubber you will want the 550. If youre under 150 lbs or so the 400 would be ok, but its kindof a city only bike. Whereas the 550 will take you anywhere.
For me at 170(in those days) the 750 was a very nice riding experience, if a little heavy in traffic.
You probably dont want to hear this, but get a hi-quality full-coverage helmet,leather gloves, and a padded leather jacket.This gear will cost you more than the bike. But the first time you go down(theres always a first time), and you walk away, instead of having to take a very expensive ambulance ride,then you will remember their worth.Your knees,hips and posterior, will heal. And when you do go down, do not be in a hurry to get back up. Just lay there for a few seconds.Make absolutely sure that youre not still moving. The brain can be funny that way.
 
thanks im gonna check out the 400 or 550 cause im right in that 150 - 160 weight range. and im defiantly gonna invest heavily in high quality safety gear cause too many kids at my college get a motorcycle the first second they can and will ride with like a t-shirt shorts , and sneakers.
 
I mess with quite a few bikes(mostly Harleys these days)and have had a couple of those in my hands. Both were a mess. Both backed out of the job after I priced tires, battery, plugs and fluids.Bike parts are high and it doesn't take much to get to 1k. Most shops won't install customer supplied tires or parts. So keep that in mimd. On a bike you have 2 small contact patches between yoir skin and the ground. Tires are not the place to save money and chances are if it's been sitting for a few years you'll need a set. Depending how far you get you night need some specialty tools. Carb balancer , fork seal driver come to mind. Good advice above and I'm not trying to discourage you, but you would be way ahead $$$ wise to find a $1500 bike that will pass whever inspection you have there and you can get on and go. Also insurance rates are based on cc's. Long winded, but figured I'd throw a few things to consider out there.
 
I have been riding since 1971, and my first bike was a 67' 650 BSA Lightning. You don't have to start with a toy bike, it just takes patience, and practice. I rode Harley's a bunch of years as well, and many a 120 lb girl I rode with lifted a super glide or classic softail, or electra glide , and rode off. you don't have to be big, or heavy. Just skilled.
 
Older Honda's are a good choice, parts are way cheaper than any of the other makes.

My first street bike was a Yamaha RD400 2 stoke, Kenny Roberts special, it was damn fast.
But it taught me how to ride and respect 2 wheels.

My favorite bike was a 03 Suzuki DRZ 400 I bought it new, still would be riding it, but it caught on fire and burnt.
Replaced it with a new Buel Ulysses, that damn bike was going to put a nail in my coffin, traded it for my Challenger.

If you think you will save money riding a bike over a car its not happening.
Every oil change I normally replace the back tire, every other oil change both tires.
 
GeorgeH said:
I mess with quite a few bikes(mostly Harleys these days)and have had a couple of those in my hands. Both were a mess. Both backed out of the job after I priced tires, battery, plugs and fluids.Bike parts are high and it doesn't take much to get to 1k. Most shops won't install customer supplied tires or parts. So keep that in mimd. On a bike you have 2 small contact patches between yoir skin and the ground. Tires are not the place to save money and chances are if it's been sitting for a few years you'll need a set. Depending how far you get you night need some specialty tools. Carb balancer , fork seal driver come to mind. Good advice above and I'm not trying to discourage you, but you would be way ahead $$$ wise to find a $1500 bike that will pass whever inspection you have there and you can get on and go. Also insurance rates are based on cc's. Long winded, but figured I'd throw a few things to consider out there.
Click to expand...

thanks, ill check out some in that price range and see if there's anything that someone may have bought, upgraded and had to sell at a loss. the crazy thing about Washington is that and this is coming straight from the WA state DOL motorcycles in Washington state don't have to have insurance. though they do that i'm still gonna get some cause you never know whats gonna happen.
 
oldmopardude said:
I have been riding since 1971, and my first bike was a 67' 650 BSA Lightning. You don't have to start with a toy bike, it just takes patience, and practice. I rode Harley's a bunch of years as well, and many a 120 lb girl I rode with lifted a super glide or classic softail, or electra glide , and rode off. you don't have to be big, or heavy. Just skilled.
Click to expand...

yea i know i got the lower body to balance it, i just dont have much experience with balancing a bike. i wish i had some friends with bikes besides my friends dads brand new harley. the last time i was on a biike was a long time ago and i was on a dirt bike and i hit some bad mud and started sliding lol
 
sireland67 said:
Older Honda's are a good choice, parts are way cheaper than any of the other makes.

My first street bike was a Yamaha RD400 2 stoke, Kenny Roberts special, it was damn fast.
But it taught me how to ride and respect 2 wheels.

My favorite bike was a 03 Suzuki DRZ 400 I bought it new, still would be riding it, but it caught on fire and burnt.
Replaced it with a new Buel Ulysses, that damn bike was going to put a nail in my coffin, traded it for my Challenger.

If you think you will save money riding a bike over a car its not happening.
Every oil change I normally replace the back tire, every other oil change both tires.
Click to expand...

im definatly not looking to save money just looing for the freedom and the feeling of the road.
 
theres a guy about a 3hr drive from me with a '84 kawasaki 700 ltd with around 58k miles on it for sale for $300 but it has a bad stater so its not running... i think i have a problem with stuff like this lol XD
 

ok so you guys might think im a bit crazy but i was browsing craigslist(like i do 90% of the time im not busy) and i found a '87 yamaha virago xv535

so heres the pros
in my price range( he wants $450)
only 6810 miles
in pretty decent condition
has new tires
clean title

and the cons
needs a new fuel pump
he converted it from a dual carb setup to a single kihin carb and needs a bracket(im amusing a throttle cable bracket for the carb)

carb problems always interest my cause i saved a bit of money on my duster cause it was smokin when all it needed was a carb rebuild, so im gonna see about talking to the guy and asking him a few more questions about it
heres the link if any of you wanna look at it
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/5038314599.html
 
Theres a reason that Virago has low mileage. And with that carb hanging off the side like that, hmmmmmm.That one will/may be a headache.


Stators are easy to replace on that LTD. New aftermarket stators come up on E-bay for under $200. But dont buy a non-running bike,period.
 
AJ/FormS said:
" but it has a bad stater so its not running.."
Stators are easy to replace on that model. New aftermarket stators come up on E-bay for under $200
Click to expand...

yea the main thing that put me off of that was the fact that its a 3hr drive from me cause i have to convince my friend to drive his calarado out for me to pick it up thats why i was more interested in the yamaha virago, thats only about a 30 min drive from me. here's the link for the ltd and right now im leaning a bit more twords the yamaha cause for the price to me it seems like a better bike

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/mcy/5023886508.html
 
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