Top End Miss

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This may sound stupid, what fuel cell/tank are you running ?
 
SpeedThrills said:
So I guess you mean it runs like a charm, but it still misses? A little confusing.
Glad you got your volume up, one less thing to wonder about.
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it runs fine under all conditions, better than it ever has... but once i hit 5800 in any gear it misses...
 
StrokerScamp said:
No it actually sounds smart as all hell. That's what we've been talkin about next. lol
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i run the car with 10 gallons at the track so its not suckin air... and i had no pressure drop on my runs... i dont think its a tank issue...

also if would do it in first and and maybe second due to the accel factor...
 
so i think i might have figured out what it is... greg called an old racer that we know and he happened to race a hyper pack motor back in the day... he said that the MP book has a great fix for my very issue...

so we looked it up and it shows them installing a 3/8x3x8x3" dam in front of the middle to runners... then he had to stagger all his jetting, 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4... said it made it a whole lot better!

So if it works SS you would have been right... it was a fuel issue... just not one that we could test lol...

now my question is that i run Autolite 65's... what would be a step hotter and a step colder?? 64's and 66's? if not i could use help figuring that out...
 
If I remember right, the Hyper Pac intake had equal length runners. The center two curved back and forth to make them longer.
 
Ed, have you ran a different coil by chance? I see in your other restoration thread you have a blaster 2. I have seen these coils cause your complaint.

Ian
 
so i contacted clifford as i was asking about daming the intake and this is what i got...

"Are you running chrome molly rings?

If so, this is a major problem. We need to change the rings to a pure chrome ring. Your engine doesn't have any seal above 2,500 rpm's unless you install chrome rings.


The cam you are running is trying to make horse power and you have a torque engine.


Our cams are designed to peak torque in the low end and peak horse power in the high end.


For instance, you changed your rear end gears because you are trying to get to the torque. You have none. Right now you are getting down the track like a v-8. 220 ft lbs of torque at 5,500 rpms.


Our cam will flip that and get 400 ft lbs of torque at 3,800 rpm's, then 240 horse power at 5,500 rpm's. Change your rear end back because we want to stay in the low end as long as possible.


See the difference?


Now, the Mallory unilite distributor will make a huge difference in your 1/8th mile and 1/4 mile time.
'Get that for sure.


Our 6=8 headers with our -X- pipe is a key part and will get you at least a full second better time.


This is a must for your car.


I have a 1.6 adjustable rocker assembly that will give our cam .030 higher valve lift. Buy it!


Do you have the water jacket hooked up? If not, do it. It will atomize air and fuel much better. A must.


The Holley carb is a handicap and needs to go as well. I have a race ready Weber 38 that will get off idle to 7,000 rpm's faster than any carb in the world. By it!


I hope I have helped you with your car. It should be in the low 13 second bracket and we certainly will.


Thank you


Larry 6=8"
 
i looked up the cam e was talkign about and its 310Adv/270 @ .050 and .560 lift... a little less with stock rockers but i like it... duration is sure high though...
 
Clifford doesn't know their *** from a hole in the ground. There is no such thing as "chrome moly" rings. They are cast, chrome, or moly. Chrome moly rings do not and never have existed. Ever. Dumbasses.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Clifford doesn't know their *** from a hole in the ground. There is no such thing as "chrome moly" rings. They are cast, chrmoe, or moly. Chrome moly rings do not and never have existed. Ever. Dumbasses.
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lol... desides that... what would cause molys not to seal?
 
I am thinking it is your ignition. One way to test, is to bench test it. I use a drill press to spin the distributor and a piece of metal drilled and threaded for the plugs. Use the coil and ignition box, ballast and battery from your car. You need to use heavy wire to connect the grounds at distributor, box, and plug metal and battery (-). The distributor turning at 3000 RPM simulates the engine at 6000. Viewing the spark plugs may show the problem. I view the primary voltage with a scope to see the dwell and peak voltage. Depending on wiring, you may have noise issues related to spark and distributor pick-up, or low voltage condition creating the miss. A spark plug wire close or contacting the pick-up wires could be a problem. Start at a lower RPM first in insure all is fine.
 
KitCarlson said:
I am thinking it is your ignition. One way to test, is to bench test it. I use a drill press to spin the distributor and a piece of metal drilled and threaded for the plugs. Use the coil and ignition box, ballast and battery from your car. You need to use heavy wire to connect the grounds at distributor, box, and plug metal and battery (-). The distributor turning at 3000 RPM simulates the engine at 6000. Viewing the spark plugs may show the problem. I view the primary voltage with a scope to see the dwell and peak voltage. Depending on wiring, you may have noise issues related to spark and distributor pick-up, or low voltage condition creating the miss. A spark plug wire close or contacting the pick-up wires could be a problem. Start at a lower RPM first in insure all is fine.
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seems odd that going from a petronix conversion (spun test to 8900 before spark scatter) then to a different dizzy (mopar electronic) and an MSD system and there was ZERO difference...
 
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