top switch bit the bullet

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coffeedart67

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I think my top switch finally quit working. In the 20 years I have had the car the switch was kind of sticky and I would have to manually return it to the middle. Today it kind of popped and now is loose and won't stay centered. What options do I have to replace it. Hate to pay the NOS prices, and don't know if anyone repops them. Have seen reference to someplace that rebuilds switchs, anyone have any experience? Prices?
Aaron
 
Done, still want to explore my other options. Searched and saw prices for others and(no offense to anyone)but ouch. One other question what would I look for in an aftermarket switch, voltage, amperage, etc.
Thanks
Aaron
 
Well, I'm not too familiar with the switch in question, I'm assuming it's a dual throw switch, one direction for up and the other way for down. If that's the case I believe you can buy toggle switches that function like that.

Just a thought.
 
Amperage is the key here, and I think you want at least a 20 amp rated switch. OR, you could put relays back by the top motor, run bigger wires for the motor and use the existing wires to trigger the relays. Then you could use a smaller rated switch in the dash and you would have a bigger selection of appearances of switches.

BC
 
64ragtop said:
Amperage is the key here, and I think you want at least a 20 amp rated switch. OR, you could put relays back by the top motor, run bigger wires for the motor and use the existing wires to trigger the relays. Then you could use a smaller rated switch in the dash and you would have a bigger selection of appearances of switches.

BC
Click to expand...
Relay's, that's what I'm doing for mine since I'm moving the location to the center console to match with the power window switches. Or you can get a new universal switch here fore around 36 bucks. (I'm going for the matching switches for my power window setup.)
it's a 50 amp switch
http://store.convertibleparts.com/unvrswi.html
 
A switch that can handle 50 amps surely has a course feel to it. Where relays handle the high current the manually operated switch can be much less capable. I've got a lighted "TOP" switch from a Lebarron to use, with relays of course. It has the feel of any power window switch.
 
or a replacement convertible top switch here for 25.00 plus 6.00 shipping.
again a high amp switch (this one I do have in the wife's dart and it feels fine, plus I like the way it returns to center.)

http://www.topsdown.com/product.php?productid=1020&send_isJS=Y&send_browser=YYN|Mozilla|5|Win32|Y|1680|1050|Shockwave+Flash|Adobe+Acrobat|Adobe+Acrobat|QuickTime+Plug-in+7.7.4|QuickTime+Plug-in+7.7.4|QuickTime+Plug-in+7.7.4|QuickTime+Plug-in+7.7.4|QuickTime+Plug-in+7.7.4|Java+Deployment+Toolkit+7.0.50.255|Windows+Presentation+Foundation|Windows+Media+Player+Plug-in+Dynamic+Link+Library

I'm using a lighted sebring relay setup right now in mine, but will be adding 5 switches that are the same so that the power windows and top switch look good all grouped together.
http://www.topsdown.com/product.php...ows+Media+Player+Plug-in+Dynamic+Link+Library
 
Sorry, but that switch for $25 is missing an important part, the circuit breaker. The factory switch has a breaker attached to the side because that circuit is not fused, but run straight from the ammeter. We put a LeBaron switch with relays into my son's Dart and will be doing the same in my Barracuda. Since both cars have the same dash (we put the Barracuda dash in his car) the switch is in the console where I prefer it anyway. There are still plenty of late model convertibles in the yards around here. Grab the relays and the wiring with the switch.

My GTS still has its original switch. If it ever goes out I will either pay for NOS or to have it rebuilt. Then again, I have to get it back on the road to worry about it.
 
JS Restorations rebuilds switches. Jim rebuilt my Challenger map light switch. It works perfectly. He will be getting all my Dart switches in the near future.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Sorry, but that switch for $25 is missing an important part, the circuit breaker. The factory switch has a breaker attached to the side because that circuit is not fused, but run straight from the ammeter. We put a LeBaron switch with relays into my son's Dart and will be doing the same in my Barracuda. Since both cars have the same dash (we put the Barracuda dash in his car) the switch is in the console where I prefer it anyway. There are still plenty of late model convertibles in the yards around here. Grab the relays and the wiring with the switch.

My GTS still has its original switch. If it ever goes out I will either pay for NOS or to have it rebuilt. Then again, I have to get it back on the road to worry about it.
Click to expand...

yep relays are a better way to go for power usage. no argument there.
but if you don't want to completely get away from the stock "ish" look then the 25.00 switch will work just fine by adding a remote (40 or 50 amp) circuit breaker in the wire run for a couple more bucks. Those are cheap and found at most auto parts stores.
I just looked at mine and my circuit breaker is located in the kick panel location on my 66 dart. and a (30 amp) circuit breaker with a spade lug screwed onto the one side to route power to the switch. so if you wanted to you could add a circuit breaker to that 25.00 switch and still come out a ton cheaper than the $100+ and new "OLD" switches
 
I dug through my universal switchs and saw that some have the handle that can come off with some persuasion, so my idea is to use a universal(with an added circuit breaker)and then remove the handle from the universal and the original and drill the original handle out(haven't figure out how to hold it while drilling without marring it), then glue the original handle on the universal stub.
Aaron
 
Not to beat a dead horse here, but the key is STILL amperage capacity of the switch. I've been working with various switches for a long, long, LONG time and I have no idea what a "universal" switch is. You might find a switch that has a rating printed on it that was maybe built by folks who don't give a damn and just waste a bunch of time and be frustrated. On the other hand, you could do a bit of research and find a new, properly rated switch for less than you'd pay for a trim piece for your 'vert, and do a proper repair that you won't have to do over.
Just sayin.....

BC
 
Sorry, by universal I meant non original, not nos, not Chrysler part. I plan on finding the best quality I can with correct amp rating. Another problem I am seeing is that the aftermarket switchs all seem to be 1/2 and the original is (I assume) 7/16, so I will attempt to drill out my bezel and tap it for the 1/2 inch. Out of curiosity what was the price on the map light switch resto?
thanks
Aaron
if it was too easy it wouldn't be any fun!
 
Contacted JS and think I am sending him the switch to rebuild. A little more than I originally wanted to spend, but I won't have to do any modifications.
Aaron
 
Update: Sent my switch to JS Restorations last week, it is rebuilt and on its way back to me, should be here Thursday. Will give a full report when I get it back. Jim is a great guy to deal with. Kept me informed via email and even included pics of the switch tore down.
http://www.jsrestorations.com/
Thanks
Aaron
 
got the switch hooked up and tried it out. I have owned the car 20 years and the switch never felt or worked this good. I would highly recommend JS restorations. Was more expensive than a toggle switch, but cheaper than I have seen used top switchs on here, and way cheaper than NOS.
 
Jim is a really nice guy and does great work.
 
What was the cost? It might be worth it to yank the switch out of my wife's GTS if the price is right. I won't have the stock switch or wiring in my Barracuda so that is not an issue (same with my son's Dart).
 
Maybe next year. I ought to take a look at it, though, because the car hasn't been on the road in nearly ten years...
 
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