Torque converter help.

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Sweetjones

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I'm new to the world of mopar and I need some help. I have a 75 duster with a 727 trans that is original to the car. I'm looking for a stall converter to replace the stock converter. My question is that the stock converter has the flywheel made on it and it is all one unit that bolts to the flexplate. The ones I'm seeing on jegs and summit are just the converter and you have to buy the flywheel separate. So if I buy a separate flywheel does that just bolt to the flexplate or does it replace the flexplate? Also will there be any clearance issues? I'm also aware that they are weighted and that's another thing I'm not sure about. Could someone just point me in the right direction on this issue. I have a mildly built 340 and I'm lookin for a 2700 to 3000 stall converter. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you're running a 727 behind that 340, you don't need an aftermarket flexplate for what you're wanting to do. An aftermarket converter will bolt right up. I would recommend picking up some ARP torque converter bolts while you're at it though.

From experience, it's not THAT much more expensive to contact a converter company (PTC, Hughes, TCI,etc) to see what they would recommend for your combo. A converter built for YOUR car makes a world of difference.
 
Is your 340 a forged, or cast crank? That determines if you need a weighted converter or not.
 
Forged is what the guy said that sold it to me so who really knows. The stock converter had one small rectangle weight on it if I remember correctly.
 
Sweetjones said:
. My question is that the stock converter has the flywheel made on it and it is all one unit that bolts to the flexplate. The ones I'm seeing on jegs and summit are just the converter and you have to buy the flywheel separate. .
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You are probably seeing a generic photo. So far as I know, all mopars have the starter ring gear on the converter.

Older LA engines used a 4 "star" shaped flexplate. Aftermarket flexplates can be had to adapt a neutral balance converter to an externally balanced engine.

Realize that there are "several" external balance situations. A 5.9 Magnum is externally balanced, but not the same balance condition as an LA 360
 
67Dart273 said:
You are probably seeing a generic photo. So far as I know, all mopars have the starter ring gear on the converter.

Older LA engines used a 4 "star" shaped flexplate. Aftermarket flexplates can be had to adapt a neutral balance converter to an externally balanced engine.

Realize that there are "several" external balance situations. A 5.9 Magnum is externally balanced, but not the same balance condition as an LA 360
Click to expand...


This is correct. Many of the pictures you see on JEGS and Summit and sites like that are generic.
 
I,m with UOP on this.I would call a converter supplier and have one built for your application(cam,gear size,tire size).JMO
 
Never thought about that. Seems like if it was a instock item they could just run out to the shelf and snap a pic! Thanks for the help fellas !!
 
Sweetjones said:
Never thought about that. Seems like if it was a instock item they could just run out to the shelf and snap a pic! Thanks for the help fellas !!
Click to expand...

That sounds easy but in reality with places as big as JEGS and Summit's warehouse could take someone 1/2 an hour by the time they locate one and open the box and get back and load the picture. To us it's nothing but to most big businesses like that time is money and they won't make the sacrifice. It'd actually be real easy just to google a picture to use but that'd take knowing what it actually looks like. I know Chrysler and GM stuff but would be lost with everything else.

BTW: the suggestion of a custom converter is a really good idea. John Cope at Cope Racing Trans. is a great guy to deal with and sells PTC converters (very good and reasonably priced) for about the same price as an off the shelf converter from JEGS/Summit. The best part is it'll actually stall what you want it to stall. Off the shelf converters are a crapshoot because how much torque your engine puts out drastically affects how much a converter stalls. A great example is my car. Back when I first built it I ordered a 3000 stall converter from John and it stalled exactly 3000 rpm behind the 360 I ordered it for. Year before last I installed a new 408 stroker and due to money restraints used the same converter. It now stalls 3500 due to the increased torque of the 408. It actually worked out good because I wanted more stall but there are times where it doesn't work good.

Good luck with the project:burnout:
 
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