Torque Converter Manufacturers/Builders

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70dart340

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I'm sure this question has been beaten to death, but I couldn't find an answer. I'm finishing up my 408(big Voodoo solid roller, 11:00-1, TF heads and intake, TTI's, ect...). Pat Blais rebuilt my 727 before he retired, 8 3/4 3.91's, 28" tires. I know I need a good custom torque converter for this combo. I'm hoping my FABO family can point me in the right direction from their experience. Car is 80% street. Thanks in advance. Paul.
 
I would recommend a tight 4000 converter. That thing will peel the asphalt up. Precision of New Hampton is a good start.
 
I would recommend a tight 4000 converter. That thing will peel the asphalt up. Precision of New Hampton is a good start.
What does a Tight 4000 mean exactly Triple R? Loose to 4000, Then Tight or...
I'm a Stickshift guy so I've never had a TC made
 
What does a Tight 4000 mean exactly Triple R? Loose to 4000, Then Tight or...
I'm a Stickshift guy so I've never had a TC made
It means it will ride around like a stock converter until you brake torque it to launch. Then it will flash to ~4000. Converter technology isn't anything like the slipping converters of the 70s and 80s. It's come a dang long way.
 
Only have had personal experience with JW out of Florida, and FTI out of Florida! Both are a great source ! I’m all the company mentioned are great folks as well ! Converter technology has came along way ! You might as well reap the benefits !
 
Ultimate Convertor Concepts did my 5200 stall 9.5 convertor on my street/strip Dart and you'd never know it was that high of a stall on the street

 
I've used a few PTC units with success. With engine-dyno info and all the car details, they generally are closer to what you desire.
 
Ultimate Convertor Concepts did my 5200 stall 9.5 convertor on my street/strip Dart and you'd never know it was that high of a stall on the street

I bet that beeotch will slap scat too. You just cannot tell people that high a stall speed without them having convulsions. LOL I'd run it in a minute.
 
What does a Tight 4000 mean exactly Triple R? Loose to 4000, Then Tight or...
I'm a Stickshift guy so I've never had a TC made
Basically, tight versus loose will refer to size, internal components, and fin angles.
A converter shop can make a 4000 stall converter out of a eleven or twelve inch core, or an eight inch, or anything in between. An eleven inch 4000 will be a horrible piece of junk, because of the adjustments inside to make it sloppy. The eight will be quite a bit more expensive, but a far better converter.
As for loose or tight, if you use a small enough core, you can have it act tight, meaning drive more like a stocker, and still get good stall speed. For example, the eight mentioned above probably can be a tight 4000, or a loose 5800, depending on stator, fin angle etc. ( Remember, engine size, torque and horsepower has a HUGE effect on stall speed too. A 500hp 440 will stall much higher than a 500 hp 273)
For good info on how a converter works, and how they are adjusted, check out Hughes trans videos on you tube. Their one on torque converters is excellent.
 
Only have had personal experience with JW out of Florida, and FTI out of Florida! Both are a great source ! I’m all the company mentioned are great folks as well ! Converter technology has came along way ! You might as well reap the benefits !

Located where in Florida?
Can you leave a link?
 
I'm sure this question has been beaten to death, but I couldn't find an answer. I'm finishing up my 408(big Voodoo solid roller, 11:00-1, TF heads and intake, TTI's, ect...). Pat Blais rebuilt my 727 before he retired, 8 3/4 3.91's, 28" tires. I know I need a good custom torque converter for this combo. I'm hoping my FABO family can point me in the right direction from their experience. Car is 80% street. Thanks in advance. Paul.
What are the specs of the cam? I run a 410 with 10.25CR, TF heads, AG intake, 246/250 @.050 solid roller (would be considered on the smaller rather than big side yes) Dougs headers, 4.10, 27 MT ET street s/s with a Tiurbo Action 3500 tight. It flashes to 3500. All timing marks are rock solid consistent run after run. I run mid 11.40’s 1.58/1.60 60’, front wheels come off the track at launch.
On the street when I hit it the tc flashes to 3500 and my combo pulls hard as it runs from there up through the Rev range. Extra 500rpm or more of hard pulling stonk is addictive. You may need a higher stall, you may not. Don’t discount the concept of a good stroker combo that’s 80% street using a slightly lower stall (tight) than what the consensus seems to be. You may (likely) need more than 3500, even 4000. A lot depends on your cam specs obviously YRMV
 
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Very nice street combination and it runs mid 11’s, yea, I’d call that good and with a good converter, which I’m sure yours is, you’ll never know your driving with that high of a stall.

There’s a few places where you don’t skimp, a good cam, an excellent head, a excellent torque converter. The converter has the biggest effect and results.
 
His cam. He is running 1.6 rockers.

IMG_1243.jpeg
 
Your 408 will be more stout than mine as I have Eddie RPM heads. 251/255@050 cam. 4.10 gear with 28" slick. Unported Super Victor intake which everyone here says is not that great.

Car runs 11.teens @118. 5000 stall from an 8" ATI TreeMaster TC. I hold it at 1900-2000 rpm to stage it then mash the pedal and hang on!!

Drives on the street like any other torque converter - have to keep your foot on the brake at idle (1000 rpm), no "mushy" feeling, etc, etc. You would never know it is a high stall converter. Trans temp typically in the 160-170F range when driving on the street. At the track, it leaves the line around 150-160 and hits 180 at the end of the track. By the time I get back to my pit, temp is typically back down around 150-160.
IMG_1735(1).jpg
 
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Your 408 will be more stout than mine as I have Eddie RPM heads. 251/255@050 cam. 4.10 gear with 28" slick. Unported Super Victor intake which everyone here says is not that great.

Car runs 11.teens @118. 5000 stall from an 8" ATI TreeMaster TC. I hold it at 1900-2000 rpm to stage it then mash the pedal and hang on!!

Drives on the street like any other torque converter - have to keep your foot on the brake at idle (1000 rpm), no "mushy" feeling, etc, etc. You would never know it is a high stall converter. Trans temp typically in the 160-170F range when driving on the street. At the track, it leaves the line around 150-160 and hits 180 at the end if the track. By the time I get back to my pit, temp is typically back down around 150-160.
View attachment 1716111636
People, READ THIS ^^^^^ "5000 stall drives like any other converter" FIVE THOUSAND STALL and drives on the street GOOD. We bees tryin to tell yall. LOL
 
Like I said before, my 5200 stall at idle when put into gear will make the car move. It's not the old technology where a big stall sounds like a 4 speed loading up
 
Like I said before, my 5200 stall at idle when put into gear will make the car move. It's not the old technology where a big stall sounds like a 4 speed loading up
Dats wut I'm tawkin bowt. lol
 
People, READ THIS ^^^^^ "5000 stall drives like any other converter" FIVE THOUSAND STALL and drives on the street GOOD. We bees tryin to tell yall. LOL
I'm one of many that have a TC like this. You wouldn't know the difference between this one (in my avatar) and my 71 Demon 340's stock TC on the street. That is UNTIL you exercise your right ankle for some fun. Then just hang on and try to keep it pointed straight!!
 
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