torque converter question.

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tekslk

tekslk

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Question on a stock 340, lite cam and it wont spin the tires. What stahl converter should I use. like 2200-2500.
 
Need more info..like
cam spec
gear size
rear tire size.
When buying a stall torque convertor,most company,s will ask for this info.
 
so many things influence it....as mentioned above, also timing advance / curve, carb set up, engine condition, compression ratio (a tired low compression engine with a big cam is no good)
 
Not being able to spin street tires can be the result of several things besides an inadequate converter. But even OEM should be able to spin the tires.

* Was the cam installed/degreed correctly?
* Valve adjustment/lifter preload correct?
* Carb issues
* Ignition timing
* Vacuum leaks?
 
323 gears with a 27 inch tire, cant remember cam specs but it only had like a 484 lift, I think 276 duration, initial timing is 15 all in at 2700 going to a total of 36. Runs like hell once its off the line, it has a holley 770 street avenger.
 
tekslk said:
323 gears with a 27 inch tire, cant remember cam specs but it only had like a 484 lift, I think 276 duration, initial timing is 15 all in at 2700 going to a total of 36. Runs like hell once its off the line, it has a holley 770 street avenger.
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I would look at some serious tuning first. You should be able to make rubber bands out of those rear tires right now.

What rear? Suregrip??? Gears????

I run a 318 in my car and can roast the 27" tall tires on it.
 
Its brand new motor 323 sure grip Doesnt need a tune up but it does need something. Must keep foot on gas at stop sign or it stalls idles at 1200 when in neutral. Compression was 9to 1 when built about 2 months ago, once you hit 15=20 moh it runs great sounds great just nothing off the line plus it wont idle down without stahling.
 
You need to shorten the mechanical advance slots to allow for more initial timing, and perhaps all in sooner. This will help out your idle problem and will make more bottom end power. Honestly, I would try this first before putting a converter in it. If you pick up a second distributor (and the factory ones are just as good if not better than any aftermarket one) you can play with it. Search here or google shortening the advance slots for the mechanical advance. Somewhere there is a chart with lengths of slots vs advance, and put in 2 light springs. With a second distributor you can then play with it and experiment. I have had great results before doing this, just weld up the end of the slots and file to size.
 
I can do that but it should still lite them tires up off dead start, that also doesnt explain the stahling at stop signs, and haveing to keep idle on the high side. Im still thinking torque converter, it has stock one right now, when I changed the converter on my 360 ittook care of everything. Just wondering what stahl to get for this one.
 
tekslk said:
I can do that but it should still lite them tires up off dead start, that also doesnt explain the stahling at stop signs, and haveing to keep idle on the high side. Im still thinking torque converter, it has stock one right now, when I changed the converter on my 360 ittook care of everything. Just wondering what stahl to get for this one.
Click to expand...

It actually explains all of those things. Try it, you will see. Initial advance is a wonderful thing. Right now you have not enough initial advance. The carb plates are too far open to make it idle on the idle circuit, you are already into the accelerator pump shot so lose some of its effect, and the engine is not making as much power at idle as it would with enough advance, therefore when you put it in gear and put a load on it it dies and stalls out.
 
I will work on dizzy first then see what happens. Stock chrysler dizzy.
 
If you want to try an experiment and see.....turn the distributor to give it another 15 degrees or so of initial advance, then set up your idle, then go out and see how the bottom end feels. Be aware though as you come up in the revs you will have too much advance and will likely hear some pinging. DO NOT leave it like this if you are happy. If you are, take out the distributor and shorten those slots to limit the mechanical advance. This is why a lot of guys with race cars lock out the mechanical advance - they can run a whole lot more initial.
 
throw the cam away.I have one and it NEVER worked good until I put it in a pull truck with 10.7 compression,1.6 rockers,4.10 gears and a 4000 stall.to me they have no bottom end.the cam Bad Sport has would be a better match.but if you are going to keep it, don't run anything less than a real 2800.just my thoughts on it,
 
Appreciate everyones thoughts, will 30 initial start the car or will it hicop a little?
 
It will probably start, mopars don't generally kick back lick chevys do because of the gear reduction starter, unless you have like 12 to 1 compression. Maybe try 25 initial
 
Set it like you did before when it went from junk to great. Same process.

A 484 in a 340 is likely going to want 20*, maybe more initial timing.

I wouldn't put less than a GOOD 3K converter in that set up.
 
definantly should look at the timing sounds like cam could be installed a bit retarded also make shure the centrifical advance is not frozen up and moves freely even a oil pumper 340 with 3.23 gears would be able obliterate the tires hope this helps
 
Im glad you chimed in cracked, you really helped me with mine, this is my buddies car, but we will give things a diffrent look today. thanks again.
 
As you know from before, it takes a bit of work to get ignition set up properly.

Initial, mechanical advance (total), springs for curve and vac adv (if applicable)

I'd start at 20* with 14-16 mechnical all in by 2500. If you have a 3K converter. I err on the short side of total timing just in case I get a bad batch of fuel.
 
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