Torque Wrench on Pivot Shaft Nut

[GrrageCat]

Almost done wrapping up the front suspension. Got the car back on her feet, set ride height and now I just need to torque the Pivot Shaft Nuts and strut ends.

I was able to get a torque wrench on the drive side nut going from the top down. (Slant Six). I just don't see how I can keep the car on its wheels and get a torque wrench on the passenger side nut. At first the wrench was hitting the tire so I turned the wheel out. Then the wrench hits the strut rod on that side not giving me much room. Its a 1/2 drive, 250 ft lbs max wrench from the local parts store (Loaner).

Any tricks to doing this? I can get my breaker bar on it and just go tight as heck. Thought?

 

[mopowers]

Do you have a set of ramps or blocks you can put the car on to raise the car with the suspension loaded?

Alternatively, you can snug the nut up as much as you can with a wrench/ratchet/impact (with suspension loaded), then raise the car and torque it down, ensuring the pin doesn't pivot when you raise it. The bottom line is that you want the bushing in it's 'neutral' position at ride height. You don't want to have any 'stretch' preloaded into the rubber bushing. Obviously, that's a recipe for premature failure.

There's more than one way to skin this cat.

 

[GrrageCat]

Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes! Thank you for the tip. I'll buy some ramps and do it that way. Should have enough clearance to move my wrench and have the suspension loaded.

 

[dadsbee]

Shown in my Dart cleanup thread..

1969 Dodge Dart Swinger clean up

 

[72bluNblu]

The suspension does not need to be loaded. The important part of that operation is that the lower control arm is in the same position it will be at ride height. The weight doesn’t actually need to be on the suspension as long as the LCA is in the same location as it will be at ride height when the pivot nut is tightened.

Also, that’s only true for the OE style rubber bushings. If you have poly or Delrin LCA bushings it doesn’t matter at all, you can tighten the pivot nut with the LCA in whatever position you want.

 

[dadsbee]

The suspension does not need to be loaded. The important part of that operation is that the lower control arm is in the same position it will be at ride height. The weight doesn’t actually need to be on the suspension as long as the LCA is in the same location as it will be at ride height when the pivot nut is tightened.

Please advise how he's to do that with the torsion bars in?!

 

[mopowers]

The suspension does not need to be loaded. The important part of that operation is that the lower control arm is in the same position it will be at ride height. The weight doesn’t actually need to be on the suspension as long as the LCA is in the same location as it will be at ride height when the pivot nut is tightened.

Also, that’s only true for the OE style rubber bushings. If you have poly or Delrin LCA bushings it doesn’t matter at all, you can tighten the pivot nut with the LCA in whatever position you want.

Saying, "tighten the nut up with the suspension loaded" is the easy way to say "tighten the nut up with the LCA in the position it's in at ride height."

Sometimes it's best to just simply things. Otherwise, it may be difficult for some folks to determine preferred ride height for a suspension that's not fully assembled. And yes, it only matters with rubber bushings.

 

[mopowers]

Please advise how he's to do that with the torsion bars in?!

I guess you could pull a measurement from the LCA bump stop to the frame rail, if you know where you want that to be? Or perhaps bolt up the wheels and tires too and put those where you want them, height-wise?

Either way, I'd bet 90% of folks replacing LCA bushings find it easier to just tighten the LCA pivot shaft with the suspension loaded, once everything is bolted up and preferred ride height is set. But, who knows - there's a bunch of ways to skin a cat.

 

[72bluNblu]

Please advise how he's to do that with the torsion bars in?!

Put it up on stands, remove the torsion bar adjusting bolts, and lift the suspension until it’s where it would be at ride height.

You’d need a measurement at ride height, like mopowers suggested, to do that. If you count turns on the adjuster before you remove it, you put it right back where it came from when you’re done.

Saying, "tighten the nut up with the suspension loaded" is the easy way to say "tighten the nut up with the LCA in the position it's in at ride height."

Sometimes it's best to just simply things. Otherwise, it may be difficult for some folks to determine preferred ride height for a suspension that's not fully assembled. And yes, it only matters with rubber bushings.

I guess you could pull a measurement from the LCA bump stop to the frame rail, if you know where you want that to be? Or perhaps bolt up the wheels and tires too and put those where you want them, height-wise?

Either way, I'd bet 90% of folks replacing LCA bushings find it easier to just tighten the LCA pivot shaft with the suspension loaded, once everything is bolted up and preferred ride height is set. But, who knows - there's a bunch of ways to skin a cat.

I don’t disagree. If you’re writing a manual and you want things done a certain way you write it like that.

But if you’re having an issue with doing it that way, ie, having a hard time getting a torque wrench on the pivot nut because you’re doing this at home in your garage instead of on an alignment rack in a shop, it can help to know WHY they wanted it done that way.

Because maybe it’s easier to measure the distance from the LCA to the frame rail at ride height, then raise the car and remove the adjusting bolts, then lift the suspension up and use the torque wrench like you want. Sure, it’s a couple extra steps, but, if those are the tools you have that may be the easier path.

Plus, isn’t it nice to actually understand what you’re doing instead of just blindly following the manual?

 

[dadsbee]

Sounds like a lot of work to tighten a nut. I guess nobody checked the link I provided to show how easy it is sitting on it's wheels.

 

[GrrageCat]

@dadsbee nice! That joint and extensions might do the trick! Still might grab some ramps to have. I used the POL rubber kit and refreshed everything. Can’t wait to finally get to driving this baby. Been off the road since 92.

 

[72bluNblu]

Sounds like a lot of work to tighten a nut. I guess nobody checked the link I provided to show how easy it is sitting on it's wheels.

I saw your link. If you have all that stuff that’s fine.

I was just suggesting an alternative method to solve the problem the OP was having by just using the tools he already said he had. I know where my car sits already and could do the operation I described faster than I could drive out and buy some crappy extensions if I didn’t have them already.

Clearly you’re one of those guys that can’t think past the letter of instructions to understand what the purpose of those actions really are. Heaven forbid someone actually understands why they’re doing something instead of just blindly quoting the FSM.

 

[dadsbee]

Clearly you’re one of those guys that can’t think past the letter of instructions to understand what the purpose of those actions really are. Heaven forbid someone actually understands why they’re doing something instead of just blindly quoting the FSM.