Torqueflite 904 front clutch question.

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PNWSL6

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I had my transmission apart for some repairs and I put new frictions and steels in the front drum. I noticed that when I installed the wavy snap ring that the frictions and steels were fairly snug, as in they didn't have any real clearance. I did not measure the clearance between the wavy washer and pressure plate with a feeler gauge. I had to get the car running so I put it back together hoping that the front clutch pack will "self clearance" over time. I notice a very slight drag in first and second gear that was not there before, as in the car doesn't roll forward as freely from a stop when the brake is released on flat ground. Is it wishful thinking to assume that the front drum frictions and steels will "loosen up" over time? My plan is to stay out of first and second gear as much as possible so that the clutches can self clearance without getting too hot. No drag in third gear obviously and the transmission shifts beautifully. Thank you for any reply.
 
No, they will not "self clearance" or "loosen up" over time. The only way the clutch pack would get more clearance would be if the friction material burned off the clutches.. which is what may happen if the clutch pack is too tight.

FYI, we ditch wavy clutch snap rings in everything we build.
 
A lot of Torkflites come in with the wavy ring replaced by a flat one, but I replace it with the proper waved ring so that it won't have a harsh reverse. If you have a high stall converter, you can get away with it, but the waved ring works sort of like an acummulator, so just drill out the 2-3 shift hole to compensate for the waved ring and save your smooth reverse engagement so the ol lady don't complain when she gets back from WalMart.
 
What he said. Waved snap rings also used in GM trans & they are usually left in place.
 
Removing the waved ring is just dumb. It makes the reverse engagement extremely harsh and doesn't improve the 2-3 shift at all in a way that can't be duplicated with a method that doesn't affect the reverse engagement. It's an old school sloppy method that real transmission mechanics understand to be detrimental to the drivetrain.
 
If anybody EVER has a problem with one of my transmissions, they can always bring it back. What's your job at the tranny shop? Makeup and hair?
 
Mine don't. I said that they can bring them back if they want. How much are your back slammin builds? The ones with only four direct frictions and harsh reverse engagements?
 
I don't offer stock transmission builds and I don't do production transmission work.

But, generally speaking, yes I'd absolutely use 4 thick frictions in the high gear drum over 5 thin, depending on the combination. I will install up to 7 direct frictions, again all depending on the combination. The stock 727 transmissions you build do not need 5 direct frictions, either.
 
Where you gettin the idea that I build ANYTHING stock? I build ZERO stock transs. I'm not gonna let you slide on charging an arm and a leg for your stuff...I asked you how much to rebuild these simply simple trannys? Oh, and sorry if I get back to you a little late; my phone's been ringing off the hook since our lil tete a tete...THANK YOU. Bad enough I'm already a month behind!..Oh and keep on keepin on using just four thick grooved directs...your builds have 40% less friction surface area than mine. But I guess that's a great way to bump up your clientele... Time for everybody to break out their HF digital mics and do some serious math!
 
Post $6. Wimps end up with broken transmissions. Sometimes the makers actually know a thing or two...
 
There are a lot of oldschool recommendations that do more harm than good. I don't like replacing the waved ring with flat cuz even if the present guy is running a hi stall that would cushion the reverse, what if that trans ends up in a more sedate car? Same with just a blocker rod in the case under the acc piston; with no spring. I keep the spring; just use a 1/2" blocker inside the spring to mostly limit it, but not have it slamming in there. I don't build transs for strictly drag racing because those are for running just one season; if even that long. Racers are only concerned about winning the next race, they don't care if they have to take out their trans every week. I talk to every customer and find out what their use is to decide on the particulars of what it's going to take to make them happy. I don't ask them what they want in their trans. Like on a 4wd 727, I don't drill out the shift plate big, and I don't block the case acc piston; like on all the others. I want a softer shift for desert racers. Also, on serious 4wds, I insist on making a few more bucks by installing Red Eagles in the forward clutch as well, cuz I know they're going to be rocking their rig to get unstuck; hitting that forward clutch at over 3-4k rpm. They only disappointed customer I ever had was a guy who wanted his 340 Duster to hold the lower gears to 8500rpm; it would upshift even if he held it down. If he would have told me that, I would have gone with a pro competition shift kit; instead of my own homegrown shift upgrades. I'm still waiting for one to come back with burnt up smooth direct frictions...okay, I guess I'll give it a few MORE years.
 
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