torsion bar instalation

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crazy 340

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I know its been discuss alote BUT

I reinstal the front end of my duster with my new
QA1 K frame

but now the torsion bar key (the other part that adjust the suspention with bolt )
where the bolt adjust the suspention

that key or adjuster when the car hit a bump it come in contact with the frame
the adjuster bolt is about 1 inch out when the suspention is set at the right high
and its low I prefer it that way not as a low rider but...

do I need to undo the lower ball joint, torsion bar and push down on the lower
control arm to be able to index the torsion bar to get more lift with the adjuster

hope you can understand what I need

thanks Bob
 
Not really sure what you mean. The adjuster hits the frame?
If the upper A arm is hitting the frame, I would say the shocks are not working.

I guess a picture would help.
 
I dont know how you call it

where the bolt adjuster goes into somekind of spoon

that spoon goes in contact to the frame
 
Front-Hex-Socket-Pivoting.jpg


THE TORSION BAR PIVOT THAT TUCH THE FRAME
its like I need to srew that adjuster bolt to far to have the correct ride hight
do I need to puush down on the lower control arm with the adjuster all the way out
to ( clock it ) correctly in the torsion bar hex pivot

can I do that ?
 
With original torsion bars, what you describe is the method to install, lower the control arm as far as it will go, BUT with larger torsion bars, not so. Question, those PST bars, are the hex ends in the same clock position on both ends?
 
i HAVE THE OE ONE

SLANT 6 BAR DONT REMEMBER THE NUMBER ON IT

im running a small block
 
PST bars used to be defective in the respect the front hex and the rear hex were in the same position, they need to be off set to work correctly.
 
PST bars used to be defective in the respect the front hex and the rear hex were in the same position, the need to be off set to work correctly.
PST have corrected that issue with new bars they sell, I dont know if you have early bars...
 
You may need to pull the torsion bar, rotate the socket (not the arm) and put the bar back in.


Alan
 
With the large bars, you will want to install with the arm in near ride height position. Wont be able to do unless the Hex ends are clocked correctly. They will not flex very much. AND you should use the cut down version of the lower bump stop, IMO.
 
PST have corrected that issue with new bars they sell, I dont know if you have early bars...

Its not that they were defective it was that our original design had zero clocking as they were designed for a lowered stance and performance. But we also had customers wanting the ability to have a stock stance with the 1.03". So when we sold out of the 1.03" bars I had the prints re engineered to have a 20 degree clocking. So that the bars would work for both lowered and stock ride position. We have many customer that still have the zero clocked t bars and love them and in certain instances we get calls asking for them.

With our bars you can install as per the FSM as they have been clocked correctly.

The zero clock torsion bars were not defective. I just wanted to clear that up.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
Its not that they were defective it was that our original design had zero clocking as they were designed for a lowered stance and performance. But we also had customers wanting the ability to have a stock stance with the 1.03". So when we sold out of the 1.03" bars I had the prints re engineered to have a 20 degree clocking. So that the bars would work for both lowered and stock ride position. We have many customer that still have the zero clocked t bars and love them and in certain instances we get calls asking for them.

With our bars you can install as per the FSM as they have been clocked correctly.

The zero clock torsion bars were not defective. I just wanted to clear that up.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
I just was searching for the correct word, yes, not defective at all. A nice product. :thumbsup:
 
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