Marcroo1972
Member
1972 Dodge Demon. Can somebody please tell me how to reinstall torsion bars. Does the sway bar have to be disconnected and how do I drop the control arms to their lowest point for install. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Torsion bar issues
- Thread starter Marcroo1972
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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It kindof depends on which bars you are installing.But with most bars I have installed, I just used a long bar to move the LCA down. Sometimes I have had to remove the lower shock mount to get some travel. If you cant;t get enough room on the long prybar, then yes you might have to remove one endlink.
In one extreme case I had to loosen the the LCA inner pivot, cuz the factory rubber bushing was very stiff. Some unlucky fellows have had to remove the bumpstop at the UCA. So whatever it takes I guess
In one extreme case I had to loosen the the LCA inner pivot, cuz the factory rubber bushing was very stiff. Some unlucky fellows have had to remove the bumpstop at the UCA. So whatever it takes I guess
Marcroo1972
Member
Do the lower control arms need to be bottomed out for proper install of torsion bars they are the big diameter bars for big block
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,026
- Reaction score
- 12,370
As far as I can tell, all the factory bars are clocked the same. My 1.03 bars were different and need very little preload to set the low ride-height.They slide right in/out with no loosening of any components. Sometimes the epoxy paint on the hexes is lumpy and needs to be removed some;just the lumps.
Take one bar and lay it on a flat surface. If the hex flats on both ends lay flat to the surface, then there is no clocking.By itself, this means nothing.The clocking is there, to provide enough windup on softer bars. A bigger bar doesn't necessarily need it.You simply have to unbolt stuff until it slips in.
However, with a big fat bar, the clocking can be shallow, cuz the wind-up is not needed. Perhaps you are trying to force the arm too far down.Since the bar will start in the back hole before the front, it is just a matter of eyeballing the front socket, to see which way to go.If the LCA pivot pin is not centered in the bushing (making it junk), the bar will not want to enter the socket, cuz the sockets are then not on the same imaginary line.The same thing can happen if the front frame rails have gone soft, carrying the K into a different plane.Those two sockets have to be on the same imaginary line.
Sometimes if the LCA bushing is bad, one has to loosen the pin in the K to bump the socket back into alignment. But if the pin is not centered, it is best to replace the bushing, to restore the imaginary line. To assemble it otherwise is to put a little bend into the T-bar,which they don't like.
Grease those sockets up while you are in there. I use "waterproof" wheel bearing grease from a marine supplier.
Take one bar and lay it on a flat surface. If the hex flats on both ends lay flat to the surface, then there is no clocking.By itself, this means nothing.The clocking is there, to provide enough windup on softer bars. A bigger bar doesn't necessarily need it.You simply have to unbolt stuff until it slips in.
However, with a big fat bar, the clocking can be shallow, cuz the wind-up is not needed. Perhaps you are trying to force the arm too far down.Since the bar will start in the back hole before the front, it is just a matter of eyeballing the front socket, to see which way to go.If the LCA pivot pin is not centered in the bushing (making it junk), the bar will not want to enter the socket, cuz the sockets are then not on the same imaginary line.The same thing can happen if the front frame rails have gone soft, carrying the K into a different plane.Those two sockets have to be on the same imaginary line.
Sometimes if the LCA bushing is bad, one has to loosen the pin in the K to bump the socket back into alignment. But if the pin is not centered, it is best to replace the bushing, to restore the imaginary line. To assemble it otherwise is to put a little bend into the T-bar,which they don't like.
Grease those sockets up while you are in there. I use "waterproof" wheel bearing grease from a marine supplier.
Marcroo1972
Member
I took them out with torsion bar tool I really need to get this figured out any ideas do I need to take the sway bar links out to lower the control arms shock bolt is out
I ALWAYS loosen the LCA pivot nuts when removing/installing T-bars, and
never tighten them until the vehicle is on the ground(or align machine),and
the ride ht. is set. Don't take it wrong 'cause we've all had our "doh" moments,
but you are trying the bar marked"L" on the driver side, and "R" on the pass.
side, ??
never tighten them until the vehicle is on the ground(or align machine),and
the ride ht. is set. Don't take it wrong 'cause we've all had our "doh" moments,
but you are trying the bar marked"L" on the driver side, and "R" on the pass.
side, ??
Marcroo1972
Member
They are new bars I think they need to be reinstalled properly I need to raise front end and I need some pointers on a proper install so I can raise the front end up higher
Did the torsion adj. anchor move down in between the two halves of the LCA?
If you backed out the adj screws all the way you shouldn't have trouble really.
You said you need to raise the frt end, where were the adj. screws thread out
the bottom-wise B4 you removed everything??
If you backed out the adj screws all the way you shouldn't have trouble really.
You said you need to raise the frt end, where were the adj. screws thread out
the bottom-wise B4 you removed everything??
Loosen the adjustment bolt on the lower control arm.
Feed the bar in through the frame...
Rotate the lower control arm so the hex in the socket lines up with the bar, then slide them in.
You can't have any pressure on the lower control arm with the adjusting nut so it's free to rotate so you can line up the hexes. You can't spin the rear hex, so that is your base line that you have to line everything up in relation to with the hex on the bars, then the hex socket in the lower control arm...
Feed the bar in through the frame...
Rotate the lower control arm so the hex in the socket lines up with the bar, then slide them in.
You can't have any pressure on the lower control arm with the adjusting nut so it's free to rotate so you can line up the hexes. You can't spin the rear hex, so that is your base line that you have to line everything up in relation to with the hex on the bars, then the hex socket in the lower control arm...
Nite Moves
Well-Known Member
Totally agree.Ive just gone through this having my torsion bars mixed up,,(left and right) Ride height wouldnt stay. I had re do all again and it was a PITA and a Doh moment for me. I did what KrazyKuda said as well as took out lower shock bolt. Its all good now......good luck! keep us posted
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
The torsion bars are not interchangable side for side. The bars are marked either right or left by an "R" or "L" stamped on one end of the bar. The general procedure for replacing a torsion bar is as follows.
Removal:
1. Disconnect front sway bar and remove front shock
2. Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.
3. If vehicle is to be raised on a hoist make sure it is lifted on the body only so suspension is in its full rebound position (no load).
4. Release all load from torsion bar by turning anchor adjusting bolt counterclockwise
5. Slide rear anchor baloon seal off rear anchor and remove lock ring from anchor.
6. Remove torsion bar through rear of rear anchor. Use car not to damage the baloon seal when it is removed from torsion bar.
Installation:
1. Insert torsion bar through rear anchor.
2. Slide baloon seal over torsion bar with cupped end towards rear of bar.
3. Coat both ends of torsion bar with long mileage lubricant.
4. Slide torsion bar in hex opening of lower control arm
5. Install lock ring making sure it is seated in the groove.
6. Pack annular opening in rear anchor completely full of a long mileage lubricant.
7. Position lip of ballon seal in groove of anchor.
8. Turn adjusting bolt clockwise to place a load on torsion bar.
9. Reconnect sway bar end links and reinstall front shock.
10. Lower vehicle to floor and adjust front suspension height.
11. Install upper control arm rebound boot.
Removal:
1. Disconnect front sway bar and remove front shock
2. Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.
3. If vehicle is to be raised on a hoist make sure it is lifted on the body only so suspension is in its full rebound position (no load).
4. Release all load from torsion bar by turning anchor adjusting bolt counterclockwise
5. Slide rear anchor baloon seal off rear anchor and remove lock ring from anchor.
6. Remove torsion bar through rear of rear anchor. Use car not to damage the baloon seal when it is removed from torsion bar.
Installation:
1. Insert torsion bar through rear anchor.
2. Slide baloon seal over torsion bar with cupped end towards rear of bar.
3. Coat both ends of torsion bar with long mileage lubricant.
4. Slide torsion bar in hex opening of lower control arm
5. Install lock ring making sure it is seated in the groove.
6. Pack annular opening in rear anchor completely full of a long mileage lubricant.
7. Position lip of ballon seal in groove of anchor.
8. Turn adjusting bolt clockwise to place a load on torsion bar.
9. Reconnect sway bar end links and reinstall front shock.
10. Lower vehicle to floor and adjust front suspension height.
11. Install upper control arm rebound boot.
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