Traction Challenged

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GoFish

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So I'm having doubts about being able to hook up at all on my '71 Scamp. The absolutely largest tire the rear wheel wells will accommodate is a 255, and I have a 408 smallblock with a big-*** turbo. Unfortunately, I've already done body and paint and don't really want to go back and do a minitub.

I'm looking for feedback regarding a spring relocation vs. offset shackles. Mancini's offset shackles seem like a lot of $, but don't require any welding. Their Inboard Leaf Spring Kit looks interesting, but I already have new shackles and the spring seats could just be cut off and rewelded, right? Has anyone done their own spring relocation? I'm hoping to fit 285's or at the very least, 275's. I appreciate any feedback!
 
Thespring relocation kit is probably the best bet. Re-sell the shackles for money back. Look under a thread about tire sizeand what other people have stuffed under the car. Some guys have gotten it preety wide.

Check out Big Block dot com and into there tech section you should go for a peak and picture fest of how to do this.
 
I say do a spring relocation and a mini tub job....way worth it. you can get the kit from riellymotorsports. he has a nice relocation kit for 80 bucks or so.

my 70 dart is mini tubbed/spring relocation, and i have 315/35/17 tires under there. pretty fat!!!
 
The spring relo will give you about 3" and requires some drilling and welding. I'm not sure about the offset shackles, but another member should be able to help.

I've got 9.5" rims on the rear of my Demon w/ a spring relo with plenty of room to spare.
 
Have the offset 7/8 spring hangers,15x8 wheels with 275/60/15 BFG drag radials.002/003 super stock springs.I had to roll fender lips,but it fits(barely).Hope this helps.
 
Definitly do the relocation. 275s are a sure bet and then if you change your mind you'll be all set to mintub.
 
Im doing the spring relocation now. Few tips....

On the rear hangars. Use your hole saw and cut a tempate out of 1/8th steel. Now lay that over the outer rear hole thats already in place and clamp it tight. This will give you a template and not allow the hole saw to walk all over. And if you get it centered over the hole you only cut out enough to make it larger. Next on the inner rear hole tack/weld a washer with a 1/4 inch hole over the hole on the inner side.. Try to get this centered over the existing hole this will serve as a guide as well and not allow the hole saw to walk.

With the tubes they give you for the rear... My tubes are 1 1/8th OD... I got a washers that were 1 1/8th ID.. Weld one washer flush with the tube and pound it through the hole Outer side to inner side. Next take another washer and tack it to the tube on the inner part. Cut the excess off and grind flat. weld the washer to the frame rail.


On the frame rails. Take your relocation boxes and scribe a line. (First you want to go around with a torch and scrapper and get the undercoating off then clean down to metal good) lay your box up and scribe a line and make your cut. Make sure its straight from inner side of frame rail to outer... use a peice of metal for a guide if you want. Lay your boxes up and trim if needed... Now with the stock mounts put them back in place put your boxes up to where they need to fit.. Now take a marker and put it through the stock holes and mark the side of the new box... (a black Sharpie Fine Point is about the size the hole in the stock mount and you can get a good center of the hole with this marker. Do this on both sides. Next drill 9/16ths hole thought the boxes (you may want to use a drill press to assure there straight side to side.) get a peice of 1/2 steel stock about 4ft long (trim to fit) run the steel rod through all 4 front mount points. From there you will know exactly where the box needs to be... Tack in place a few times assuring the steel rod moves freely though all 4 points. When you got it where you want weld them up.




I see you have done your paint and body but this done correctly you wont effect your body work. The mini tub process is pretty easy and there are a number of sites with help..

www.bigblockdart.com (tech section)

PettyBludart's thread page 13-15 IFRC

Crackedback has a good power point send him a PM he could help you.



It's easier then you think. Heck I had 0 knowledge on sheetmetal work and fabrication before I started my build and i had little trouble with mine. If I can do it im certain you could.
 
Have the offset 7/8 spring hangers,15x8 wheels with 275/60/15 BFG drag radials.002/003 super stock springs.I had to roll fender lips,but it fits(barely).Hope this helps.

Back spacing amount?
 
Hmm, I wonder if I'd have to buy a new cal-trac setup to do the relocation...
 
Hmm, I wonder if I'd have to buy a new cal-trac setup to do the relocation...
Just give CalTracs a call,ask if yours will work with the spring relocation.When I ordered my CalTracs,I had mentioned that they were going on my Early-A(66 Dart)with 3 inch spring relocation.I don,t know what the difference would be,other than different wheel base(63-66 vs 67-up)?Good Luck.
 
Thanks for all the feedback regarding my original question of spring relocation vs. offset shackles. I think that since a spring relocation would give me the most room for wider tires (between those two options), but also recognizing that I'm NOT a fabricator, I'm leaning toward a 3rd option which is a RMS Street Lynx setup. The reason is simple. This will give me plenty of room for bigger wheels/tires and requires no cutting and a minimal amount of welding. It will also handle regular street driving (this will be my daily driver when it's done) and will also allow for better corner weight adjusting for track days.

Before I bite the bullet and put my money down, are there any other rear suspension setups available that are ready made for Mopars that I should look at? For this kind of money, I just want to be sure...
 
Thanks for all the feedback regarding my original question of spring relocation vs. offset shackles. I think that since a spring relocation would give me the most room for wider tires (between those two options), but also recognizing that I'm NOT a fabricator, I'm leaning toward a 3rd option which is a RMS Street Lynx setup. The reason is simple. This will give me plenty of room for bigger wheels/tires and requires no cutting and a minimal amount of welding. It will also handle regular street driving (this will be my daily driver when it's done) and will also allow for better corner weight adjusting for track days.

Before I bite the bullet and put my money down, are there any other rear suspension setups available that are ready made for Mopars that I should look at? For this kind of money, I just want to be sure...


Still will only hold a 275 max with stock wheel wells.
 
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