Tremec TKO transmission

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Steven190

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Who is using a Tremec 5 speed transmission?

What are your thoughts? Do you like it, like were the shifter is? And the modifications.

I was wanting a 5 speed but with the shifter in the stock 4 speed hump. It seems that the Tremec TKO you have to use their hump and modify the tunnel. I am not sure that I really like it.

I want an overdrive for highway use. I am running a 3:91 rear axle ratio.
 
I"m in the same boat as you, but mine is far from running. I'v thought about the Passon, but by the time you buy a flywheel, clutch set up, hydraulic clutch, driveshaft with the Passon, you're in the $6k range. With the TKO 600 it'd be around $3500. That'd pay for a lot of 3rd generation bemi stuff. Boy this stuff gets expensive. I thought street/hot rod projects were expensive.

Is that the Dart that you're working on in the picture? Looks nice. I will be starting my Over-Kill Valiant project in another six months or so. The idea is for it to be my everyday car, and the 38 hotrod the warm summer months car. I didn't think that I was going to get this involved in the Valiant deal, but the rust is more than I thought it was before I bought it. Trunk, passenger floors, trunk drip areas, lid front fenders, oh well, it should be interesting when finished.
 
The Dart in the picture was my first Dart, a Pro Street Hemi car.

This project is going to be a stock looking car with a 408, 5 speed and 8 3/4 rear.

You are right, I bought a Hurst Tremec kit. The Hurst kit is the only one that has a transmission cross brace in it, to replace the one you cut for the Tremec. This was the only kit that I found that did this.

As for Passon it was too expensive and long lead time.
 
You are right, I bought a Hurst Tremec kit. The Hurst kit is the only one that has a transmission cross brace in it, to replace the one you cut for the Tremec. This was the only kit that I found that did this.

Bumping this up. What was your thoughts on the Hurst Kit? I'm looking at the same thing. Is you car a factory 4 speed car?
 
I thought with the passion 5 speed you can use the stock bell housing,clutch and the shifter was in the stock location:burnout:

Yup, the Passon 5 speed bolts in place of the stock transmission, everything is in the stock location.

But Passon is more than a year behind on orders for the 5 speed, so, good luck getting one.

The TKO will cost way more than $3,500 to install. If you just go to Hurst and pick the 5 speed and use the "elite" parts kit you're at $4,636. That kit has almost everything you need, but you still need to do the tunnel and crossmember mods and it doesn't include a hydraulic clutch set up. It also includes an aluminum bellhousing, so if you need an SFI rated bell or parts for 500+ hp you need to spend more money. You could do it cheaper if you sourced some of the parts yourself and went with the lowest prices you could find, but by the time you're all said and done you'll be in over $4k no matter what.

That's why I went with the T56 for my car. I think I have everything to do the swap at this point, with the exception of making the upper and lower crossmember. I'm in a little over $5k right now, figured the extra money and additional cutting was worth the extra gear. And if I continue to drag my feet on starting the swap US Cartool may come out with their A-body T56 crossmember.
 
Bumping this up. What was your thoughts on the Hurst Kit? I'm looking at the same thing. Is you car a factory 4 speed car?

The thing I liked the most about the Hurst was the transmission cross member has an upper brace to replace the stock transmission cross member that you have to cut out.

And as always the products form Hurst are top notch. My car was a auto car, so the tunnel needs to have a new hump, It is in line with the cars tunnel, not offset like the factories. If your car has a factory 4 speed the hump will still need to be replaced.
 
Maybe if your swapping from auto auto manual. If your all ready manual you don't need their clutch (you need a 26 spline disk to match your pressure plate), flywheel, yoke (you need to fab a drive shaft and their yokes are overpriced), shift handle (I wouldn't want a pistol grip) and bolts. Drops you down to $3570

I just got quoted from SST, $4737 for a TKO kit and $6365 for a T56 kit. Mind you that's considering my car is a manual to start with.
 
The thing I liked the most about the Hurst was the transmission cross member has an upper brace to replace the stock transmission cross member that you have to cut out.

And as always the products form Hurst are top notch. My car was a auto car, so the tunnel needs to have a new hump, It is in line with the cars tunnel, not offset like the factories. If your car has a factory 4 speed the hump will still need to be replaced.

Thanks for the info. I don't think the install is much different tunnel wise as the Manual cars have the same hoop up into the tunnel as autos.
 
I don't like the overdrive gear being driven thru the clustergear. the final gear should be straight thru like the old doug nash / richmond 5 speed and standard 4 gear transmissions. for a time I had a a833 overdrive in my car with the 513 rear gears, so the engine revs were lower but the tranny noise and vibes were higher. put the straight a833 back in. why is most folks afraid of revving the engine a little, I built my 340 to rev
 
I don't like the overdrive gear being driven thru the clustergear. the final gear should be straight thru like the old doug nash / richmond 5 speed and standard 4 gear transmissions. for a time I had a a833 overdrive in my car with the 513 rear gears, so the engine revs were lower but the tranny noise and vibes were higher. put the straight a833 back in. why is most folks afraid of revving the engine a little, I built my 340 to rev

5.13 gears? So, what, when you're cruising at 70mph on the freeway you're turning 4,500 rpm? Yeah that's awesome. Not going to drive for 3 or 4 hours straight like that.

Plus drag racing isn't the only thing out there. I want to be able to hit 150mph on the straights on a road course, I don't give a single flying crap what it will do in a 1/4 mile. With 5.13's you'd have to turn 6,500 rpm just to hit 100. And since my car is also my daily driver, I want to be able to hop in and cruise on the freeway at 70 mph for 6 hours without my ears bleeding or my top end coming apart. With a T56 using a .63 6th I can run 4.10's and still only turn 2,300 rpm at 70. So one of these days I can finally drive the 6+ hours down to Spring Fling. Probably even get half decent gas mileage doing it, at least as good as a 400+ hp 340 will get anyway.

Maybe if your swapping from auto auto manual. If your all ready manual you don't need their clutch (you need a 26 spline disk to match your pressure plate), flywheel, yoke (you need to fab a drive shaft and their yokes are overpriced), shift handle (I wouldn't want a pistol grip) and bolts. Drops you down to $3570

I just got quoted from SST, $4737 for a TKO kit and $6365 for a T56 kit. Mind you that's considering my car is a manual to start with.

$6365 for a T56 kit is painful, especially if it doesn't include a flywheel or pressure plate.

I'm at about $5,300 so far, and I'm not using cheap parts either. Not sure why all the hydraulic clutch kits cost $600, if a $100 hydraulic clutch slave is good enough for a Viper, it's good enough for me.

American powertrain T56 Magnum TUET-11009: $3,050 (+$109 freight)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-tuet11009/overview/

Quicktime Bellhousing #8074: $684.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-8074

Dorman clutch slave cylinder #cs360050: $107.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-cs360050

Wilwood 7/8” master cylinder #260-3376: $69.93
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-3376

Hydraulic clutch line FBPA0039-36: $14.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbpa0039-36

Russell Clutch Adapter Fittings -3AN 640281: $21.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640281

McLeod 130-tooth flywheel #464102: $313.36
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-464102

McLeod B&B pressure plate #360153: $193.01
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-360153

McLeod 26-spline clutch disk #260570: $216.32
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-260570/overview/

McLeod pressure plate bolts #1500: $26.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-1500

Ford Racing Transmission Yokes M-4841-A: $71.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-4841-a/overview/

RAM Slave Cylinder Spacers 78511: $77.97
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78511

Prothane Transmission mount $41.99
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-6-1608-bl

Neutral Safety Switch Connector $7.83
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-pg-097

Reverse Lockout Connector $7.83
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-pg-098

Hurst Speedometer Cable with gear M-243-69-RED: $95.00
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/

Hurst Mopar roller pilot bearing for Tremec 3562-1010: $90.00
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com

Synchromesh Transmission fluid #88900333 $17.97x4
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88900333



Total: $5,273

I'd still need to get my driveshaft shortened, which cost me $80 last time. And fabricate the upper and lower crossmember pieces, along with the tunnel. But that's probably $50 worth of metal. I already have a few different pistol grip shifters, I can modify one for use with the T56. I suppose I should throw in another $100 for that since that's usually about my limit for buying used ones. So, call it $5,500 with everything.
 
hey 72 blow - relax

Relax? Did I sound mad? :dontknow:

Just the facts man. I'm not the one whose car will be redlined at 100mph. That's fine if all you do is go a 1/4 mile at a time or never have to cruise above 55mph or so. But if you need to do 70mph to keep up with the slow lane on the freeway it's not going to work, especially if you drive for more than a few minutes. My engine revs just fine and 6k is fun to bounce off of, but I don't hate my engine. And you'd have to hate the poor thing to keep it held at 4,500 rpm or more for a few hours. I spent a bunch of money on that little 340, and I want it to last 100k miles or more before I get into it agin. Remember, it's not a weekend car, it's my daily driver.

And like I said, there's more out there than just drag racing. On a road course, if your absolute max top speed is 100mph you're going to get passed a lot. More gears means more flexibility, simple as that. With a T56 I can run 4.10's and have good acceleration, close gear ratio's, and still roll down the freeway at 70mph at 2,500 rpm. Best of everything. It's like having 4.10's for the first 4 gears and then having a 3.28 and a 2.58. Heck I could run a 4.56 and 6th would still be like having a 4 speed with a 2.87 rear gear out back.
 
The thing I liked the most about the Hurst was the transmission cross member has an upper brace to replace the stock transmission cross member that you have to cut out.

And as always the products form Hurst are top notch. My car was a auto car, so the tunnel needs to have a new hump, It is in line with the cars tunnel, not offset like the factories. If your car has a factory 4 speed the hump will still need to be replaced.

I used an old Keisler perfect fit TKO kit and hopefully the Hurst kit is better as far as drive line angles . I had to modify their mount and raise the transmission up two inches .
I bought a cheap digital inclometer to check angles. That would be my suggestion to check your angle of the trans before you weld in the new trans tunnel.
 
$6365 for a T56 kit is painful, especially if it doesn't include a flywheel or pressure plate.

I'm at about $5,300 so far, and I'm not using cheap parts either. Not sure why all the hydraulic clutch kits cost $600, if a $100 hydraulic clutch slave is good enough for a Viper, it's good enough for me.

I'd still need to get my driveshaft shortened, which cost me $80 last time. And fabricate the upper and lower crossmember pieces, along with the tunnel. But that's probably $50 worth of metal. I already have a few different pistol grip shifters, I can modify one for use with the T56. I suppose I should throw in another $100 for that since that's usually about my limit for buying used ones. So, call it $5,500 with everything.

I'd love to do like you did and fab my own install. I have all the design tools, welder, torch, skills, etc to do it. With a 3 and 6 year old, time is something I don't have. I'll be lucky to get my new re-re-re-built engine in this summer.

What suck is I had a TR-3550 from my old Mustang I sold and could have used. This was back when a 3550 was $1300 new and a T56 was $2k . I'm amazed how much they have gone up in price.....
 
QUOTE Yup, the Passon 5 speed bolts in place of the stock transmission, everything is in the stock location.
But Passon is more than a year behind on orders for the 5 speed, so, good luck getting one. QUOTE

And they have hit another snag halting production so a year would be a serious underestimate.
 
At purchase in January, my Barracuda had a Tremec T5 in it. Unfortunately, with work and family needs, I've barely touched the car since I pulled about half the interior and have almost no time at all under it.

If interested - when I get back into the car and finish removing the interior, I can take some additional shots of the tunnel as well as decent under-car shots and post. Hope to be getting some time in it next weekend.

I have one I kind of reached under to snap with the phone a couple months ago when i was looking for the type of pigtail plugs I needed.

I've driven it all of 10 miles total, but the T5 was nice. Unfortunately, being a world class T5, PO filled with gear oil instead of ATF, and I've got an X-pipe in my way of getting to the thing to add all wiring pigtails and swap out fluid.
 

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I swapped my old A-833 to TKO 600. I got almost new (it was spare transmission one of local racer) TKO and i paid 1300$.

American Powertrain sold ProFit kit for me, i was 900$. Drive shaft rebuild 100$ (i had already strong cromo drive shaft).
ProFit kit was really easy and fast install and fit a really good for my car. Kit including offset shifter kit as well so shifter is more close original position.

I sold my old A-833 and i got 900$ from it, so transmission swap wasn't expensive for me...
 

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Well, I bit the pillow and got a Hurst kit for $3350 shipped, just got it yesterday. They are having a sale so i got $300 off mine.

This was just for the TKO 600, bellhousing, Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, reverse harness, speed-o cable and gear, Yoke, cross member and tunnel cover.

Now the fun begins.....when I have time.
 
If any of you guys get cash in hand, shoot me a PM, we are dealers for American Powertrain and I can make a FABO deal although there isnt much mark up in them. I will do what I can but dont want to spend all day calling them if you are 6 months off. Their kit is complete, either the 4sp-5 sp or AT to sp.
 
our A-body ProFit Kit includes:

A-Body Transmission Prep - Trans SOLD Separately. Select it in the drop down box
AP Revolution Shifter Mechanism - Provides short, quick shifting, proper shift position
3.0" Seamless DOM Driveshaft - Race balanced, solid u-joints
Driveshaft Slip Yoke - Cryogenically hardened
Bolt-In Cross Member - Black powder coat, uses original bolt holes
Isolator Mount - Polyurethane
Speedometer Solution - Mechanical or Electronic
Conversion Pilot Bearing - Works in manual and automatic cranks
Conversion Release Bearing - Compatible with OE clutch fork
Weatherseal Reverse Light Harness,
Hand Formed Transmission Tunnel and Template,
Hardware, Complete Instructions and Industry Leading Warranty,
24-Hour Customer First Technical Support

NOTE: Requires engine specific bell housing. $50 release bearing delete when using hydraulics. Compatible with OE shift position or console.

$1360 on our site but can probably do a bit better.
 
Thanks for the detailed info you posted about the tranny swap. I am planning to do a auto to 6 speed on my 68 notch.
 
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