Trick Flow harmonic balancer install

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Made a homemade balancer installer, but how "far" on does the balancer go? I had the oem factory one on and it way way closer to timing cover/marks then the TF one.
Also, best way to "hold" balancer/engine so I can torque the crank bolt?
Thanks
Steve

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I think the flywheel was on mine. I think a screw driver sufficed to jam it up long enough.

I bet someone has a better way though.

Very exciting!!
 
Take a spark plug out and put a piece of rope in that cylinder about 5' long leaving about a foot or so hanging out. Turn the crank until it stops on the rope. Torque it down, back the crank up and pull the rope out, reinstall plug.
 
Jax340Dart said:
Take a spark plug out and put a piece of rope in that cylinder about 5' long leaving about a foot or so hanging out. Turn the crank until it stops on the rope. Torque it down, back the crank up and pull the rope out, reinstall plug.
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I had a friend who bent a valve doing that, he got in a hurry after replacing valve seals. He rotated the driveline after replacing the valve springs
 
4spdragtop said:
Made a homemade balancer installer, but how "far" on does the balancer go? I had the oem factory one on and it way way closer to timing cover/marks then the TF one.
Also, best way to "hold" balancer/engine so I can torque the crank bolt?
Thanks
Steve

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Hold the crank pulley up there...how close are ya? Should bottom our pretty noticeably.

And Heads up, these are not powdercoated, it's painted. I have TF sb damper on My dart and got some fuel on it. Paint wipes right off....I wasn't too thrilled.
 
Johnny Mac said:
Hold the crank pulley up there...how close are ya? Should bottom our pretty noticeably.

And Heads up, these are not powdercoated, it's painted. I have TF sb damper on My dart and got some fuel on it. Paint wipes right off....I wasn't too thrilled.
Click to expand...
My old one did the same thing but with brake clean. I would rattle can it with clear coat before doing anything on
 
Thanks guys, TF balancer is approx 1/4" from timing marks.
The oem one was approx 1/16, noticeably closer.
I'll try to get a pic before work.
Thanks for heads up on the finish. I'll remove and protect somehow.
Johnny Mac said:
Hold the crank pulley up there...how close are ya? Should bottom our pretty noticeably.

And Heads up, these are not powdercoated, it's painted. I have TF sb damper on My dart and got some fuel on it. Paint wipes right off....I wasn't too thrilled.
Click to expand...

73smallblock said:
My old one did the same thing but with brake clean. I would rattle can it with clear coat before doing anything on
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Hey Steve did you need to hone the tf balancer to fit or was it sized proper .
 
handy home made tool - great minds think alike - ha - has to go on till it bottoms - pics for what their worth.

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Thanks guys, I'll get pics and measurements tonight after work.
Aaron, I didn't hone, I had spoke to TF last year as there is a "ridge" on the inside and I thought it was a concern. Apparently not as the oem one has one as well. The depth difference on the 2 balancers is fairly significant. I'll dig for pics.
jimjimjimmy said:
Hey Steve did you need to hone the tf balancer to fit or was it sized proper .
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-Boosted- said:
I’ll measure mine when i get a chance.
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If it's seemingly that far off I would be looking at putting the drive pulling on the front of it and seeing if it lines up with your water pump pulley...
 
I've done the rope trick on the compression stroke, never a problem.
Sounds like the balancer might need a slight hone, aftermarket ones seem to be undersized.
Don't overdo it or it'll be junk. Machine shop went a touch too far on mine, straight to garbage can
 
We used the rope trick on stuck valves in aircraft engines. In your case, make sure that it's on the compression stroke. I torque mine with an air gun. Sounds like it's true, aftermarket balancers can get interesting.
 
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