Trick Flow heads, etc.

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Yes, but OOTB, ready to run, 281cfm @.500 and 295 cfm @.600. I think we can make some power with them on 340ci.
2+ hp per cfm is generally obtainable but 1.7-1.8 should be no problem, an achievable goal, 281 cfm x 1.7-1.9 = 478-534 hp a lot of street strip (10-11:1, 245 ish cam etc..) type engines are usually in that range.
 
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So I stand corrected my memory was somewhat skewed. I was going off my speedmaster head flow numbers which have a competition valve job and come in a little higher than what are posted . I was also looking at some other tests . There's no getting around the fact that the trick flow is a noticeable improvement out of the box and I myself would love to have a pair on my 340 but I will stand by that they really separate themselves in the upper lift..
I would love to see actual track time improvement on a 340 because some have reported disappointment. But I'm sure supporting cast plays a big part.
Yes, but OOTB, ready to run, 281cfm @.500 and 295 cfm @.600. I think we can make some power with them on 340ci.
 
Here is a weird one. Exhaust gasket and ports. The Trick Flow port shape is smaller than the Remflex gaskets a buddy is using.

IMG_0977.jpeg


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The bottom part of the center ports on the heads are just left a square-ish shape.

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I find that strange.
 
Here is a weird one. Exhaust gasket and ports. The Trick Flow port shape is smaller than the Remflex gaskets a buddy is using.

View attachment 1716413533

View attachment 1716413536

The bottom part of the center ports on the heads are just left a square-ish shape.

View attachment 1716413534

I find that strange.


The floor on OE heads is a nightmare. They filled it up and that’s a big improvement.

The port mismatch is a good thing, although I’ve seen some very smart guys say that is old technology.

It’s not. The header should be bigger than the port UNLESS you have a clean sheet of paper head and a 5k set of headers.
 
The gasket as seen in the pictures needs to be pushed UP slightly for top of the gasket to clear the port. The holes in the gasket that the header bolts pass through are generous in size, allowing a bit or movement.
My curiosity was regarding the lower section of the center ports. The TF head ports look square like so....


360 A26AB.jpeg


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Instead of like stock....

360 A26AA.jpeg
 
Good morning guys , Russ I have a 2000 Dakota R/T and will watch this post headers are going to be tricky for the truck if you can find full length headers look for mids also and you want to find port plates for header they move the bolts out so you can get to them easily also oil pan and pick up tube is specific for Dakota due to cross member also 9 1/4 with 3.92 came in r/t and xlt and Durango with 5.9 magnum engines you will not break it only thing that sucks is bolt pattern not a lot of rim choice any way waiting to see this build it’s what I originally wanted to do with my Dakota
 
Yes, but OOTB, ready to run, 281cfm @.500 and 295 cfm @.600. I think we can make some power with them on 340ci.
You got to translate Turk speak, = below 7,500 rpm is a granny mobile making no power, It's a low rpm engine, below 6,500 rpm is a tractor engine :)
 
Whatever aluminum head you choose make sure you have the block decked so you can use the cometic head gaskets The aluminum heads cause issues and there are many forum discussions to back this up. Having dissimilar metals next to one another can run into issues down the road with coolants and expansion rates.
 

OK. I know this for a fact, cause I fell prey to the TF claims.

out of the box TF's will get CRUSHED by an expertly ported Eddy. And I DON'T mean like Hughes or those types. I'm talking about someone who ports for a living.

So, I'm sure that expert could get the TF's to be outstanding, but now you have 4 grand in heads?

I wish Pittsburgh Racer was still here.......
 
Good morning guys , Russ I have a 2000 Dakota R/T and will watch this post headers are going to be tricky for the truck if you can find full length headers look for mids also and you want to find port plates for header they move the bolts out so you can get to them easily also oil pan and pick up tube is specific for Dakota due to cross member also 9 1/4 with 3.92 came in r/t and xlt and Durango with 5.9 magnum engines you will not break it only thing that sucks is bolt pattern not a lot of rim choice any way waiting to see this build it’s what I originally wanted to do with my Dakota
I'll keep you in the loop. The block is at the builder now getting the machine work done.
 
Whatever aluminum head you choose make sure you have the block decked so you can use the cometic head gaskets The aluminum heads cause issues and there are many forum discussions to back this up. Having dissimilar metals next to one another can run into issues down the road with coolants and expansion rates.
The block is being decked and line bored.
 
OK. I know this for a fact, cause I fell prey to the TF claims.

out of the box TF's will get CRUSHED by an expertly ported Eddy. And I DON'T mean like Hughes or those types. I'm talking about someone who ports for a living.

So, I'm sure that expert could get the TF's to be outstanding, but now you have 4 grand in heads?

I wish Pittsburgh Racer was still here.......
Assembled Trick Flows are under 3 grand.
Buy the absolute best heads you can afford. Period. Whether that’s Edelbrock, TrickFlow, Bloomer, Indy, W7/8/9, etc.
Some of us have something called a budget. :lol:
 
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Some of us something called a budget. :lol:
Trick Flows? The best OOTB small block head available, you'll be money ahead with the money saved for not spending to get any other head up to spec and ready to run.
FWIW it would cost a bunch getting an Edelbrock or Seedblaster head in the same hemisphere as the Trick Flow.
 
Have the builder dismantle and check spring pressure, guide clearance, spring height etc.

My builder dealt mostly race Chevy engines. Never do that again. I don’t have a lot of builders to choose from. Builders are going out of business. Electric race cars that don’t need machining may change everything.

Either way he should have decked the block knowing I was going to use aluminum heads. You need the right surface to use the cometic gaskets.
Trickflow didn’t help either cause I asked them about any special needs to use their heads. Their directions tell you to buy Felpro gaskets but now I find out it’s better to use the cometic gasket. Too late.

Don’t forget to run up to operating temperature, shut down and retorque the heads. If you use the Sharp rockers double check the clearance between rockers and spacers.
ASSUME NOTHING

Oh use the ARP assembly lube-not oil for the head bolt washers.

The small block TF heads are supposed to be very good. Don’t worry about the price. Next year it may cost more. It costs 20 bucks for an omelette so what’s a couple grand.

Remember the days when your entire paycheck went into the car and gas? lol
 
As I recall John liked the Speedmaster better than the Edelbrock, but he liked the ProMaxx better than the Speedmaster.

In trying to get ready for the cylinder head challenge, I’ve run hundreds of tests on the SM, ProMaxx and TF. If ‘potential’ is the criteria, my ranking would be TF then ProMaxx then Speedmaster. All need a lot of work to release the potential. Out of the box it’s a no brainer. Trick Flow.
 
As I recall John liked the Speedmaster better than the Edelbrock, but he liked the ProMaxx better than the Speedmaster.

In trying to get ready for the cylinder head challenge, I’ve run hundreds of tests on the SM, ProMaxx and TF. If ‘potential’ is the criteria, my ranking would be TF then ProMaxx then Speedmaster. All need a lot of work to release the potential. Out of the box it’s a no brainer. Trick Flow.
I thought we have come to the conclusion that the ProMaxx IS a SM casting.
 
As I recall John liked the Speedmaster better than the Edelbrock,
in his words the quality was better than the Edelbrock, but that isn't saying much.
He told me he didn't know how his full blown ported Speedmaster head would compare to his Edelbrock version as he didn't and didn't know anyone that had any dyno or track test on them.
I sure wish you had a pair for that shootout, but I don't think many exist.
 
The bottom line is you can buy a quality U.S. product or spend the same on a Chicom casting to get the same results.
 
The advice to use MLS gaskets with aluminum heads...Pffft.
I've ran both Cometic MLS in .060 and .075 thicknesses, Fel Pro Perma Torque and never had a gasket failure with a big block.
I don't know if there would be a difference in an LA or Magnum series engine.
Also, my machinist never decked the block to any specific finish and yet....I've never had a gasket failure.
 
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