TrickFlow heads. A few teaser pictures

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pittsburghracer

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Well I told you guys I bought a Harbor Freight weld several months back and a spool gun so I could set it up for aluminum and never have to run aluminum with my Lincoln mig welder. It was always a pain switching the liner back and forth so now hopefully I will practice more. Aluminum is not the easiest to run so I practiced several days this week. Today I tried my luck welded on my new TrickFlow heads so I can push the pushrod over. Last week I ground in prep to give me more room to weld since it had to be done. If you look at both pictures of the outside of the head you can see how much weld I applied. Just for curiosity I went ahead and quickly opened up the pinch .100 and after I blend it in will flow test it. I have more shaping and blending to do but I want to make sure I’m done welding then I can dip my burrs in transmission fluid. I don’t want to have to weld after doing that. The port with the X on it is the one opened .100
 
Cool stuff…. I picked up some 5/8 aluminum round stock today to tube the push rod channels on my Promaxx heads…I’m keeping stock offset intake rockers…are you going with offset ones?
 
:thumbsup: I love it, carving up a brand new casting , a pioneer with his grinder and mig.
 
Cool stuff…. I picked up some 5/8 aluminum round stock today to tube the push rod channels on my Promaxx heads…I’m keeping stock offset intake rockers…are you going with offset ones?


If you are staying with stock rockers do yourself a favor and use K&S brass tubing. I’ve done several posts on here showing how to do it and it’s very easy. I would never tube them with solid rod and redrill them for stock rockers. Way to much work. You can’t tube TrickFlow heads because the pushrod hole is terribly shaped. I’m going with .350 offset rocker Harland Sharp built for me but I’m not moving them over that far.
 
If you are staying with stock rockers do yourself a favor and use K&S brass tubing. I’ve done several posts on here showing how to do it and it’s very easy. I would never tube them with solid rod and redrill them for stock rockers. Way to much work. You can’t tube TrickFlow heads because the pushrod hole is terribly shaped. I’m going with .350 offset rocker Harland Sharp built for me but I’m not moving them over that far.
I paid $50 this morning for some aluminum round stock… no way I’m backing out now!

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You just can’t leave well enough alone can you John? Good work and Godspeed brother. Show us the way!
:thumbsup:
 
Be sure you run the best pushrod you can get!
The offset angle like that on my Superstocks is
brutal on the pushrods with high spring pressure we run.
 
Either you're that good or I'm stupid. (The latter is it I'm sure) because I cannot tell where you added weld.
 
I always like reading your posts John. I wish I had the brains and knowledge to port. Never tried it and probably never will.

I have a question, (out of curiosity, that’s all), don’t take it the wrong way.

Why not step up to the W8-W9 head? With your porting skills, I’ve always wondered why you haven’t tried these heads.
 
I always like reading your posts John. I wish I had the brains and knowledge to port. Never tried it and probably never will.

I have a question, (out of curiosity, that’s all), don’t take it the wrong way.

Why not step up to the W8-W9 head? With your porting skills, I’ve always wondered why you haven’t tried these heads.



i guess it comes down to timing and budget. I ran small blocks for years then switched to big blocks. Around 2007 I finally bit the bullet and bought a keith black block, calias crank, and B1 heads. So I had soon had two sets of B1 heads and two sets of 440-1 heads that I ran for years. When I wrecked in 2010 I started racing the black 1970 I had bought several years before and it was set up for a small block. To start all over buying good stuff for a small block would be crazy. 48 degree block, heads, rockers, pistons with special ring pak , vacuum pump, belt drive, etc. I mean where would it stop. Honestly I just want to race and go “half-fast” without weekly maintenance. That’s for the younger crowd. But I do like tinkering.
 
Great work. I was grinding on my M-1 intake this weekend, and made a mess of my shop. I am looking for more room to be able to do more. I was wondering if you preheat the head before welding ? I have not tried my spool gun ,been using my tig welder. But it is only 185 amps.
 
Great work. I was grinding on my M-1 intake this weekend, and made a mess of my shop. I am looking for more room to be able to do more. I was wondering if you preheat the head before welding ? I have not tried my spool gun ,been using my tig welder. But it is only 185 amps.


Hell you gave me a “red x”. Lol. My machine is only the Harbor Freight Titanium 200. I used map gas to preheat the first on but I won’t be preheating the next one. Honestly there isn’t much metal there after TrickFlows cnc work.
 
Hell you gave me a “red x”. Lol. My machine is only the Harbor Freight Titanium 200. I used map gas to preheat the first on but I won’t be preheating the next one. Honestly there isn’t much metal there after TrickFlows cnc work.
I am sorry if I accidentally gave you a red x, it definitely was not intended. Using my junk work phone, must have fat finger it
 
Been there done that and NEVER will again. Good luck.
If you have a milling machine, dropping an end mill down the center of the uneven TF pushrod hole will round it out and make installing the rod or tube easy. Then just drill it back out in the new location,no? A big, heavy, rigid drill press might work but you have to be careful because the bearings aren't designed for an uneven load. I'm considering tubing my ProMaxx 171's but I need to look into whether or not opening the pinch is going to help or hurt considering the other somewhat limited porting they will see. The bowls already look pretty good, but that is a topic for another thread.
 
Don’t worry Robin, I closed the door. A couple pinholes that I could fix with the welder, or leave alone, or possibly fill with Splashzone epoxy. Trust me they don’t go anywhere and are coated with a couple more layers of weld on the outside. Pretty hard to get a piece of copper smack up against it.
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If you have a milling machine, dropping an end mill down the center of the uneven TF pushrod hole will round it out and make installing the rod or tube easy. Then just drill it back out in the new location,no? A big, heavy, rigid drill press might work but you have to be careful because the bearings aren't designed for an uneven load. I'm considering tubing my ProMaxx 171's but I need to look into whether or not opening the pinch is going to help or hurt considering the other somewhat limited porting they will see. The bowls already look pretty good, but that is a topic for another thread.


What I like about tubing them is I grind over till I kiss the tubing. Then I can push the wall past that back and it gives me better access to the shortside. And that is the best part of the shortside because it dumps into the center of the bore, not the cylinder wall. It really opens up my shaping options.
 
What I like about tubing them is I grind over till I kiss the tubing. Then I can push the wall past that back and it gives me better access to the shortside. And that is the best part of the shortside because it dumps into the center of the bore, not the cylinder wall. It really opens up my shaping options.
Enjoying this thread. Thanks for showing the progress.
Out of curiosity I am wondering how well your spool gun is working for you? I never used one but sounds like a good plan. Would it be too much work to weld up the outside are of the port first with a bunch of material and then drill it from the deck side to the valve cover side to support a tube like you do in the Edelbrock heads?
 
What I like about tubing them is I grind over till I kiss the tubing. Then I can push the wall past that back and it gives me better access to the shortside. And that is the best part of the shortside because it dumps into the center of the bore, not the cylinder wall. It really opens up my shaping options.
That makes sense. I guess what I meant to get at was that once you have a round hole, you can either fill it with a solid piece or a tube. The endmill give you the flexibility to position the hole wherever you want it to be, it doesn't follow the existing hole, regardless of shape. Carry on.

Loving the process. I was concerned how well you could access that with the spool gun. Are you adding material only from the port side an using a copper backer in the pushrod hole?
 
Enjoying this thread. Thanks for showing the progress.
Out of curiosity I am wondering how well your spool gun is working for you? I never used one but sounds like a good plan. Would it be too much work to weld up the outside are of the port first with a bunch of material and then drill it from the deck side to the valve cover side to support a tube like you do in the Edelbrock heads?


I’m liking the spool gun so far and I’m thinking about all types of projects. When I bought this I was thinking about the same thing as far as welding the tubes in. I still have that project on the back burner because I have to figure out where I was sucking oil from on my best set of Edelbrock heads. I may have big issues because I tubed my heads then put the aluminum rod in the brass tubing. Welding aluminum wouldn’t like that.
 
That makes sense. I guess what I meant to get at was that once you have a round hole, you can either fill it with a solid piece or a tube. The endmill give you the flexibility to position the hole wherever you want it to be, it doesn't follow the existing hole, regardless of shape. Carry on.

Loving the process. I was concerned how well you could access that with the spool gun. Are you adding material only from the port side an using a copper backer in the pushrod hole?


No most of the welding I’m doing is from the backside of the port with the copper backing plate in the port itself. Before I started welding I went ahead and ground clearance where the pushrod would end up which gave me more room to weld. It needed ground anyway so you might as well use the room.
 
No most of the welding I’m doing is from the backside of the port with the copper backing plate in the port itself. Before I started welding I went ahead and ground clearance where the pushrod would end up which gave me more room to weld. It needed ground anyway so you might as well use the room.
I've got a 200A AC/DC TIG or a 190 Hobart MIG with a spool gun. I need to start practicing on aluminum with both so I'm ready if/when I make a hole where I don't want one. I'm well versed in using the copper backer to build up from.
 
I've got a 200A AC/DC TIG or a 190 Hobart MIG with a spool gun. I need to start practicing on aluminum with both so I'm ready if/when I make a hole where I don't want one. I'm well versed in using the copper backer to build up from.


Copper works great. You saw in the picture above how big of a hole I filled.
 
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