Tried 11033 new Lares power steering box on 72 Duster

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TheTieWrapKid

TheTieWrapKid

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Ordered a new power steering box from Classic Industries. It's an 11033 Lares unit. After some arm and finger wounding and some intermittent cussing over several days, I got the stock box off and the new unit on the 72 Duster. This was the original steering box that came off as far as I know. It was steering decent even after the pump replacement which fixed my nasty squeal. Then after some time and a few runnings later, the steering box blew an input shaft seal from what I could tell and was leaking. I was wondering if anyone has one of these running good on a Mopar. Mine doesn't do much except blow bubbles. Bleeding numerous times. Had lines back off and back together to try for better seal maybe. It straightened out some with the wheels off the ground. It would steer back and forth fairly smoothly like that, but was making foam in the reservoir. Acted fairly bad with front tires on the ground. Real hard to turn at first and a little assist kicked in mostly on right direction. Sometimes going left. Not encouraging enough results to drive around the block. Talked to the Lares guy who thought I was developing a binding when letting the front back down to the ground.
 
Be very careful with that box . Do not put your hand or arm through the steering wheel while the car is running. I have see one of their boxes take off in one direction like a propeller. The equalizing valve was bumped out of place . The bolts were just snug.

It is adjustable but very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Do not put your arm through the wheel to start a car up with a replaced power steering box. I knew a guy that had his lower arm fractured doing that. Just a FYI
 
TheTieWrapKid said:
Ordered a new power steering box from Classic Industries. It's an 11033 Lares unit. After some arm and finger wounding and some intermittent cussing over several days, I got the stock box off and the new unit on the 72 Duster. This was the original steering box that came off as far as I know. It was steering decent even after the pump replacement which fixed my nasty squeal. Then after some time and a few runnings later, the steering box blew an input shaft seal from what I could tell and was leaking. I was wondering if anyone has one of these running good on a Mopar. Mine doesn't do much except blow bubbles. Bleeding numerous times. Had lines back off and back together to try for better seal maybe. It straightened out some with the wheels off the ground. It would steer back and forth fairly smoothly like that, but was making foam in the reservoir. Acted fairly bad with front tires on the ground. Real hard to turn at first and a little assist kicked in mostly on right direction. Sometimes going left. Not encouraging enough results to drive around the block. Talked to the Lares guy who thought I was developing a binding when letting the front back down to the ground.
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Maybe dig a quick grave for the new power steering box, yank the lines and pump and go 20 to 1 manual. Drop the heavy, non hooked up ac off there too. Lighter, less maintenance
Less horsepower draw.
 
They have terrible reviews. I can tell you this. If any brand box is available at the big stores like oreilly, autozone and advance, it's junk. All three can get those boxes.
 
When replacing a power steering gear, you need to get all the air out of the system. This is the way I like to do it....I start by filling the reservoir with P/S fluid. Then, I turn the wheel from side to side one turn or less with the engine off to work out most of the air. I then check the oil level and top it off and repeat the procedure as necessary. I then run the driver's side seat belt through the steering wheel and cinch it up tight before I start the engine in case the adjustment is way out of whack. That way the wheel won't spin and slam to the stop, possibly damage the box. If the adjustment is ok (I can easily rock the wheel back and forth slightly), I release the seat belt and work the wheel back and forth a half turn or so. Recheck the oil level, top it off, and repeat.....gradually increasing the turning range of the wheel. You don't want to run it all the way to the stop however! That can cause all sorts of foaming if there is any air in the system still. A turn and a half each way is plenty to work out the air. When you think the air is out, drop the car onto the ground, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and recheck the oil level. Take it for a test drive, and recheck the level again when you get back. Recheck for leaks.
 
cudamark said:
When replacing a power steering gear, you need to get all the air out of the system. This is the way I like to do it....I start by filling the reservoir with P/S fluid. Then, I turn the wheel from side to side one turn or less with the engine off to work out most of the air. I then check the oil level and top it off and repeat the procedure as necessary. I then run the driver's side seat belt through the steering wheel and cinch it up tight before I start the engine in case the adjustment is way out of whack. That way the wheel won't spin and slam to the stop, possibly damage the box. If the adjustment is ok (I can easily rock the wheel back and forth slightly), I release the seat belt and work the wheel back and forth a half turn or so. Recheck the oil level, top it off, and repeat.....gradually increasing the turning range of the wheel. You don't want to run it all the way to the stop however! That can cause all sorts of foaming if there is any air in the system still. A turn and a half each way is plenty to work out the air. When you think the air is out, drop the car onto the ground, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and recheck the oil level. Take it for a test drive, and recheck the level again when you get back. Recheck for leaks.
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Thanks for input. I think I may be causing problems by trying to go lock to lock . It foams a bunch if running and going lock to lock or otherwise. The Lares instructions say to disable the ignition and crank the starter while steering one way then the other. I don't like punishing my starter like that. I was going lock to lock with front wheels up not running. Then with it running. That's when all the foaming happens. I put a stock style power box in another a body slant six years ago. Was easier to put in than this 340 with headers and was no issue getting it running.
 
TheTieWrapKid said:
Thanks for input. I think I may be causing problems by trying to go lock to lock . It foams a bunch if running and going lock to lock or otherwise. The Lares instructions say to disable the ignition and crank the starter while steering one way then the other. I don't like punishing my starter like that. I was going lock to lock with front wheels up not running. Then with it running. That's when all the foaming happens. I put a stock style power box in another a body slant six years ago. Was easier to put in than this 340 with headers and was no issue getting it running.
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LOL yeah, headers in a Mopar do present challenges, don't they?
 
cudamark said:
When replacing a power steering gear, you need to get all the air out of the system. This is the way I like to do it....I start by filling the reservoir with P/S fluid. Then, I turn the wheel from side to side one turn or less with the engine off to work out most of the air. I then check the oil level and top it off and repeat the procedure as necessary. I then run the driver's side seat belt through the steering wheel and cinch it up tight before I start the engine in case the adjustment is way out of whack. That way the wheel won't spin and slam to the stop, possibly damage the box. If the adjustment is ok (I can easily rock the wheel back and forth slightly), I release the seat belt and work the wheel back and forth a half turn or so. Recheck the oil level, top it off, and repeat.....gradually increasing the turning range of the wheel. You don't want to run it all the way to the stop however! That can cause all sorts of foaming if there is any air in the system still. A turn and a half each way is plenty to work out the air. When you think the air is out, drop the car onto the ground, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and recheck the oil level. Take it for a test drive, and recheck the level again when you get back. Recheck for leaks.
Click to expand...

I'd kind of like to do a Mityvac vacuum pull on the reservoir while running the car and turning both directions front wheels up. I've been checking power steering videos on Youtube !
 
cudamark said:
When replacing a power steering gear, you need to get all the air out of the system. This is the way I like to do it....I start by filling the reservoir with P/S fluid. Then, I turn the wheel from side to side one turn or less with the engine off to work out most of the air. I then check the oil level and top it off and repeat the procedure as necessary. I then run the driver's side seat belt through the steering wheel and cinch it up tight before I start the engine in case the adjustment is way out of whack. That way the wheel won't spin and slam to the stop, possibly damage the box. If the adjustment is ok (I can easily rock the wheel back and forth slightly), I release the seat belt and work the wheel back and forth a half turn or so. Recheck the oil level, top it off, and repeat.....gradually increasing the turning range of the wheel. You don't want to run it all the way to the stop however! That can cause all sorts of foaming if there is any air in the system still. A turn and a half each way is plenty to work out the air. When you think the air is out, drop the car onto the ground, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and recheck the oil level. Take it for a test drive, and recheck the level again when you get back. Recheck for leaks.
Click to expand...

Hey this Lares unit might make it yet ! Brought a couple of beers with me to the garage today. I wanted to try the steering both ways wheels up engine off. But this time with weight on stands under outer lower control arms instead of on jack hanging off center k frame. Still felt good engine off. Engine on felt a lot better , less foaming. Set the car down , not near as weird less noise a whole lot smoother. Drove it around the block, not bad. Turning a lot left and right while driving. Pretty good. I still need to check for leaks again and top off fluid, but much better than last time I tried it. I think it helped setting it down on stands to bleed. Also I think it helps to cool it off after bleeding and running. Also may help to have a couple of cold beers !
 
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