Troubleshooting help wanted!

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K.O. SWINGER

K.O. SWINGER

Meeting in the alley since 1976
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So you guys are making me lazy, instead of grabbing my volt-o-meter maybe you can steer me in the right direction I'm kind of scratching my head. I started the 340 swinger yesterday and after running about 30 seconds it just died quickly. As I try to restart it nothing, no cranking no clicking nothing. Headlights and blinkers are working any insight would be appreciated.
 
  • Check Junction box on firewall for all conections in place
  • Touch the large power wire to the wire to starter solenoid with a screw driver with key in on and see if it starts.
  • If it starts = try bypassing neutral safety switch and try again
 
GTX JOHN said:
  • Check Junction box on firewall for all conections in place
  • Touch the large power wire to the wire to starter solenoid with a screw driver with key in on and see if it starts.
  • If it starts = try bypassing neutral safety switch and try again
Click to expand...
Check out the starter relay too.
 
I agree
The wire from Junction box goes directly it starter relay on top of starter and
could well be broken between them.
 
Dan the man said:
Check out the starter relay too.
Click to expand...
Yes this is kind of the direction I was going what is confusing to me is the motor stopped like it lost ignition power and then no starter I wondered if that ring a bell to anyone. The car is a four-speed no neutral safety switch. I don't know if I'll have much more time to play with it today the wife's home today, honeydew whip cracker LOL
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Yes this is kind of the direction I was going what is confusing to me is the motor stopped like it lost ignition power and then no starter I wondered if that ring a bell to anyone. The car is a four-speed no neutral safety switch. I don't know if I'll have much more time to play with it today the wife's home today, honeydew whip cracker LOL
Click to expand...
If it lost ignition that quickly, that tells me that it could be either the control module or the ballistic resistor. My mom's 74 scamp would just quit running with out waring and it was the control module every time
 
If it is not cranking, then it is likely not an ignition problem alone. What year car is it?
 
Mike69cuda said:
If it is not cranking, then it is likely not an ignition problem alone. What year car is it?
Click to expand...
I suggested that he should check out the starter relay. And too, that all connections are clean and tight. If it ran fine up to now then it's most likely the relay.
 
The car is in 1970. I have had some problems with the main fuse link connection and this is what I suspect could be the culprit, would that stop it from cranking?
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
The car is in 1970. I have had some problems with the main fuse link connection and this is what I suspect could be the culprit, would that stop it from cranking?
Click to expand...
Possible, I've never had a problem with those but it's about doing the process of elimination
 
Dan the man said:
Possible, I've never had a problem with those but it's about doing the process of elimination
Click to expand...
Yes I was just hoping for a quick answer, troubleshootings never been a problem these cars are pretty straightforward that's what I love about them. I was just looking for quick input to maybe save a little time. Thanks y'all
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
Yes I was just hoping for a quick answer, troubleshootings never been a problem these cars are pretty straightforward that's what I love about them. I was just looking for quick input to maybe save a little time. Thanks y'all
Click to expand...
I understand that. I hope that I was of some help to you.
 
So I jumped across the starter relay and Bam it cranked.
 
Engine died AND now it will not crank.

Ignition gets power from ignition switch.

Starter relay gets power from starter switch.

Either the power TO the starter switch is intrupted or the bulkhead connector that containes the starter relay and ignition wiring is dislodged

OR

The ignition switch or connector has failed catastrophically
 
Check to see if you have a switch on the inside firewall where the clutch petal goes though the floor. I can’t recall offhand what it is called but the clutch has to be depressed to start.
 
Do any of your accessories that are fed through the ignition switch work? Radio, heater blower, windshield wipers, etc.?
 
Are you sure it does'nt have a neutral safety switch?? Just sayin 4-speed, does'nt really mean much, as Mopars had them on both manual and automatics, especially as late as '70.
 
Battery clamps and cables, connections around "big stud" of starter relay, fuse link, terminals through bulkhead for the fuse link BIG RED, Do the headlights turn on?
 
Just ground the terminal that goes to the neutral safety switch on the starter relay and then try and start it with the key.
Things I'll do in a no start ...are.. jump the ballast if it cranks but doesn't start ..or if it doesn't crank ill put the key in run position and ill Jump it with a screwdriver at the relay just to rule out the starter.
 
The headlight switch does not get its power from the ignition switch, but does receive power from the Fusible Link, which then goes thru the bulkhead connector to the headlights for a total of twice. You can use this tidbit in your diagnostics.
Same situation for the brakelights except now, the bulkhead connector is only traversed once.
Power for the radio comes from the ignition switch, but only traverses the bulkhead connector once.
If nothing at all works you gotta suspect the F-Link and the Bulkhead connector......... but, the connections at the ammeter are a known trouble spot. If you go there, disconnect the battery first! as those posts are very close to the pedal support. And if you decide to take the cluster out, they get real close to the dashframe if I recall correctly. Be safe.
Good luck.
 
Been too tired after work to get out and work on it, like I said headlights work blinkers work and I can crank it by jumping over the starter solenoid. But that's as far as I got I'm not sure it's getting spark at this time.
 
So I had the bulkhead connector issue. No power. No interior lights, nothing. I bypassed the main power feed around the bulkhead connector. No more issues. It is generally a good idea to do this anyway. I have seem many melted connectors! Don’t know if directionals worked when it was acting up. Didn’t check them.
 
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