Trunk Battery

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scatpakman

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Messages
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Location
Osseo, MN
I want to relocate the battery to the trunk. Is there a kit that comes highly recommended?
 
I just saw a member had a nice kit for sale thursday or friday. Check the classified section. Good luck.
 
If you EVER plan to show up to a dragstrip, please read the NHRA rules. Many kits, (Summit) come with a two terminal switch. The situation is made much easier if you buy something like a Cole Hearsey FOUR terminal switch, (properly called a 2 pole) which in effect is two separate switches in one "can." This allows you to use a separate circuit to kill the ignition/ alternator which will prevent the car from running on if the disconnect is pulled while engine is running.

Like this: two large terminals for the battery, two small terminals for the auxiliary circuit:

13995.jpg
 
also if you ever go to a nhra dragstrip...besides the shut off switch..the battery needs to be in a nhra approved sealed battery box....or you need to have a rear metal firewall between the trunk and passenger area.
 
Is the 1 gauge large enough wire fo a high compression engine for the length it is running?

You guys that run them, do you use the small ground cable to the frame or run a full ground cable to the engine/starter from the battery?
 
Not to hijack, but do you HAVE to have the cutoff to run at the track? I've seen many cars run out there without the disconnect, including mine. Is it based off of whether or not you are competing or just seeing how fast it will go? This is a gray area for me.
 
If you run at an NHRA track with a relocated battery, they will require you to have a cut off. Unless the tech guys is asleep...

Only cars that came factory with the battery in trunk area get away without one.
 
I have always wondered what good it will do a track safety guy to come up and shut off a battery if the alternator output terminal is used to power the B+ side of the car (lights, fuel pump, ignition, etc). Once the engine is running shutting off the battery won't help in that case. I have seen a guy hit the wall with a stuck throttle and just sit there doing a burnout while the driver is knocked out from the wall hit.
 
I had a car almost burn to the ground by not having a disconnect wired up. If something happens it takes alot of time to get out of the car, grab the trunk key,open the trunk, find a wrench and unhook the battery all the while your electrical system is burning up.
 
I have always wondered what good it will do a track safety guy to come up and shut off a battery if the alternator output terminal is used to power the B+ side of the car (lights, fuel pump, ignition, etc). Once the engine is running shutting off the battery won't help in that case. I have seen a guy hit the wall with a stuck throttle and just sit there doing a burnout while the driver is knocked out from the wall hit.

You have to wire it up correctly. Simple as that.
 
I had a car almost burn to the ground by not having a disconnect wired up. If something happens it takes alot of time to get out of the car, grab the trunk key,open the trunk, find a wrench and unhook the battery all the while your electrical system is burning up.

I have a friend that lost a Challenger because the wiring was NHRA legal, BUT, the alt line was hot all the time. Guess what caused the fire...
 
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