66jim
Well-Known Member
Use star type lock washers to bite into the (clean) connections with dielectric grease. All the little things (voltage drops) end up adding up to slow cranking
If you are having cranking issues with 1/0 it is not due to wire size, but rather something else, and there is lots of room
Wire end terminals.........wire terminals can be corroded or not making as great contact as you think
Switches. You are going through AT LEAST three switches to the starter........the disconnect, the Ford, and the original Mopar starter solenoid. Any one or two or all three could be introducing drop
The starter could have a problem
The ENGINE could have a problem
Have you done any "actual troubleshooting?" You know what a carbon pile tester is? Have you measured starter voltage and drop along the wiring in the system, and so on?
"Throwing parts" or "jacking up the radiator cap" is no way to fix anything, unless you simply like to spend money.
So!!!??? Do some checks. Get/ borrow a carbon pile tester. Get a multimeter and "rig" a long wire---which can be small, even no18---to reach to the far corners of the car, say 15-20ft long, with alligator clips each end.
Rig a remote starter to the starter relay
Check ground drop. You really should use TWO people. Clipe one probe of the meter to a good ground on the engine block. Stab the other probe into the top of the battery NEG teminal. Disable ignition so it will not fire. Crank the engine, read meter while cranking
Post the reading. You are hoping for a very low reading, the lower the better.
Now clip the meter to the starter side of the Ford solenoid. Stab the other into the top of the POS battery post. Crank and read. Same as above lower the better. You are hoping to see a FEW TENTHS of one volt
Now move up to the starter main terminal. Clip the meter there, and top on batter POS. Crank and read. Post reading.
Clip meter to starter main post and engine ground, crank and read. The higher the better Should have bare minimum 10V, acceptable is 10.5 or higher.
I do the same!!Use star type lock washers to bite into the (clean) connections with dielectric grease. All the little things (voltage drops) end up adding up to slow cranking
the hot start problem could be too much ignition advance when cranking. An easy way to test that is to get the engine to the temperature where you normally expect hot start issues. Then disable the ignition,,, pull the coil wire,,,Then crank the motor. If the motor turns over fine then you have too much ignition advance at start up.
If the starter motor drags,, then you need to go back to post # 14 and check the voltage drops as recommended.
well cripes, here ya go
the hot start problem could be too much ignition advance when cranking. An easy way to test that is to get the engine to the temperature where you normally expect hot start issues. Then disable the ignition,,, pull the coil wire,,,Then crank the motor. If the motor turns over fine then you have too much ignition advance at start up.
If the starter motor drags,, then you need to go back to post # 14 and check the voltage drops as recommended.
well cripes, here ya go
2005-2018 Mopar Starter Shield 56044116AE | Genuine Mopar Parts Direct
Yes, if the motor does not crank good when hot with the ignition disconnected that is a sure sign of either a low battery or a wiring issue.I was having a hard time with mine. I put lugs for ground on the frame in a few spots, ran #1 welding cable to starter, ran #4 from alt to shutoff back to battery. I also have a big diesel battery. All of these together made the difference. No issues now. I was draining the battery every time I drove, hard, slow crank when hot. Now is all good. I should add, 440, trick flow 240, quench motor, powermaster starter buried in TTI 440-200. I heard lots of timing talk, but it didn’t crank with the ignition off either
ya, i have no idea if it would work as is. it does look moldable thoughOpps slip quote in last post. I would like to see it installed. looks like it won't work.
I was having a hard time with mine. I put lugs for ground on the frame in a few spots, ran #1 welding cable to starter, ran #4 from alt to shutoff back to battery. I also have a big diesel battery. All of these together made the difference. No issues now. I was draining the battery every time I drove, hard, slow crank when hot. Now is all good. I should add, 440, trick flow 240, quench motor, powermaster starter buried in TTI 440-200. I heard lots of timing talk, but it didn’t crank with the ignition off either
Ok so I plan on redoing my trunk mount Battery wiring (68 Dart) due to cranking issues. I’m keeping 1ot Positive wire Batt. To Ford solenoid then solenoid to starter. 10Ga. Jumper on starter. Removing 10 Ga. That I had from Alt. (Denso 1 Wire) to Starter relay with fusible link. Changing to diagram with CD relay. What Ga. Should I use for that (Alt. to trunk) 4Ga.?
Also, what Ga. Should I be using on the Master Disconnect wiring?
My ground is 1ot. Currently goes to stud welded to rear frame rail. Another 1ot. From stud on front rail to engine block. I plan on keeping front rail to engine ground, but also running Battery ground wire to the starter mounting bolt. Back of motor to firewall is also grounded.
Debated eliminating to Disconnect entirely mostly street driven but still a good safety item. (Bumper mounted)
Thanks
View attachment 1715596132
Here is a nice clean compact. Battery right on the other side of the plate.
View attachment 1715597726
I've never had one of the ford relays fail in 40+ years.
There are valid reasons to wire a car like the OP schematic.
Pick your way to skin the cat.
Yes you may be right about the soleniod . Judging what I paid for it it's probably a peice of crap.I've been too busy right now to do anything yet but I'm going to purchase a high quality one weather I need it or not then start disgnoising . Thanks for all the coments everone . I will let you know how it works out .One possibility, tho, is today's low quality parts. And make sure the "Ford" solenoid is not actually a continuous duty one, which has a much lower contact rating.
I just saw this thread.
I did the same thing on a 68 barracuda fastback , the ford relay died in about 8 months , went to the orig. 68 mopar relay that came on the car , been on there every since . I did have to replace the ns switch plug on it a couple of weekks ago .
. I dont have jumpers long enough to go from the trunck to the engine. .
Here is a nice clean compact. Battery right on the other side of the plate.
View attachment 1715597726
I've never had one of the ford relays fail in 40+ years.
There are valid reasons to wire a car like the OP schematic.
Pick your way to skin the cat.
Without testing I'm guessing so I have to do this 1st .
I already told you how to do this, and you don't need long jumpers