PocketAces
Well-Known Member
The driver's side had less rust and dents, so I was able to use less of the patch. I kept the seam below the body line and and I left the bumper recess intact. The seam is fairly close to the body line and I think that helped prevent the metal from warping. After I welded the outside, I could still see the seam in parts of the weld from the inside. I wound up welding and grinding both sides where I had access.
I had to remove the factory sound deadener. Not sure what to replace it with. Either 3M body shutz, or maybe some kind of bed liner?
You can see in the interior shot that that dent in trunk floor just behind the rear wheel has been dollied out. The metal was stretched a bunch so I used the acetylene torch to shrink it. The first time I tried shrinking a door skin I just ruined the door. This time I followed the instructions and it worked better. You have to dolly it lightly aroud the hot spot while it's still red. It worked well and got rid of the oil canning.
I didn't get a picture, but I did paint all the metal that would be hidden.
I had to remove the factory sound deadener. Not sure what to replace it with. Either 3M body shutz, or maybe some kind of bed liner?
You can see in the interior shot that that dent in trunk floor just behind the rear wheel has been dollied out. The metal was stretched a bunch so I used the acetylene torch to shrink it. The first time I tried shrinking a door skin I just ruined the door. This time I followed the instructions and it worked better. You have to dolly it lightly aroud the hot spot while it's still red. It worked well and got rid of the oil canning.
I didn't get a picture, but I did paint all the metal that would be hidden.