tryin to break in new engine, ruff idle

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How have the plugs been looking?
I believe that in one of your earlier replies you had checked for leaks. Did you spray around the carb base and the intake with WD-40 or brake cleaner or even water ?


I checked the plugs a couple times and they were really clean.
I checked for vac leaks by spraying wd-40 all around the carb and intake while it was running, and it made no difference (except made things messy). Then I also tried spraying starter fluid all around and the only time the rpm increased was when I got some in the carb.

But I know what your sayin Harvenator - it sounds like a vac leak or a lean condition. Thanks for your input. I'm still placing my bet on carb problem. Will let you know in a week or so when I get my new carb from DemonSizzler...
 
Screamin Demon,

On the valves being shorter, check to ensure the valves have the correct "keepers" on them. Though unlikely, someone could assemble them and not have the keepers "fully" engaged (i.e. you can engage 1 ring too high on the valve and still install the keeper and retainer).

Also, when you set your preload, using zero lash, plus 1 full turn, that equates to about .060 preload, so you must add this to the gap you observed - and yes, that could be enough to cause your engine to miss. Once it's back together, I'd check for vacuum leaks as well, but WD-40 won't expose them - unless it's a diesel. Try carb cleaner and save yourself the mess.

If you want to see what a lifter and cam looks like - when they've gone bad, here's some pics. See lobe 2 in the pic...

Also, on the Torker intake manifold; there's a reason it's called a "torker" - because it makes outstanding torque. If you keep up with the manifold shootouts, you'll see that, dollar for dollar, that Torker makes excellent power and it's bigger cousin (in race applications) the Victor is king...

Southernman
 

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Screamin Demon,

On the valves being shorter, check to ensure the valves have the correct "keepers" on them. Though unlikely, someone could assemble them and not have the keepers "fully" engaged (i.e. you can engage 1 ring too high on the valve and still install the keeper and retainer).

Also, when you set your preload, using zero lash, plus 1 full turn, that equates to about .060 preload, so you must add this to the gap you observed - and yes, that could be enough to cause your engine to miss. Once it's back together, I'd check for vacuum leaks as well, but WD-40 won't expose them - unless it's a diesel. Try carb cleaner and save yourself the mess.

Southernman

Thanks for the info southernman, and the pics of the trashed cam and lifter! And I'm gonna check the keepers on the valves and see if thats an issue
 
thanks for checking in Dodgefreak, I'm still waiting on the carb from DemonSizzler. I just emailed him again tonight, I've been waiting 3 weeks. In the meantime I installed the Performer manifold and adjustable roller rockers. I hope I get that TQ soon, I cant wait to get this thing running
 
It's a runner! Runs pretty good so far! Carburetor I believe was the problem all along. Credit DemonSizzler. I put on the TQ he sent me, right out of the box without adjusting anything, just bolted it on and started it up... and it actually ran smooth for the 1st time. It even idled nicely on its own at 900 rpm. I couldnt be happier. I love mopar and love this website. You guys all helped me so much, I cant even begin to express all my thanks.

Just gotta do some tuning, maybe tweak the timing a bit, and get it broke in 500 miles to seat the rings, then I'll upload the burnout video!
 
Too Cool,Glad you finally got it running right.I am jealous of course,I have not finish porting my heads and need to get them to the machine shop after that.
Happy cruising,
TXDart
 
Well I would have gotten a Edelbrock or used Carter and had it running a month ago but you should get better MPG with the Thermo.

Glad to hear everything is good, enjoy--enjoy
 
Far Out Man ! ! !,.. glad you got it sorted out without throwing tons a stuff at it,.. congrats.. like to see some pix.. pls.. cheers .. grant
 
Screamin Demon,

On the valves being shorter, check to ensure the valves have the correct "keepers" on them. Though unlikely, someone could assemble them and not have the keepers "fully" engaged (i.e. you can engage 1 ring too high on the valve and still install the keeper and retainer).

Also, when you set your preload, using zero lash, plus 1 full turn, that equates to about .060 preload, so you must add this to the gap you observed - and yes, that could be enough to cause your engine to miss. Once it's back together, I'd check for vacuum leaks as well, but WD-40 won't expose them - unless it's a diesel. Try carb cleaner and save yourself the mess.

If you want to see what a lifter and cam looks like - when they've gone bad, here's some pics. See lobe 2 in the pic...

Also, on the Torker intake manifold; there's a reason it's called a "torker" - because it makes outstanding torque. If you keep up with the manifold shootouts, you'll see that, dollar for dollar, that Torker makes excellent power and it's bigger cousin (in race applications) the Victor is king...

Southernman
Just curious as to what caused the cam to wipe out like that. Heat?, low oil pressure? I've seen where the lobe rounds off but that looks like the lifter ran dry on the lobe.
 
Thanks fellas! I dont think I've been this excited since I bought the car (about 16 yrs ago). Here is a pic I took last night when I had the valve covers off. I had a tapping sound and discovered one rocker under each valve cover was tapping on the baffle/oil shield in the valve cover. So I ripped out the baffles from both covers. Then I picked up some special bushings from autozone to install with the breathers in each valve cover. All quiet now.

Will load more pics and burnout video after I get rings broke in.

PS - Mr. Owdkasd: the wiped cam was not mine, it was SouthernMan, so you'll have to ask him how it happened. I got lucky with mine, no damages.
 

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Just curious as to what caused the cam to wipe out like that. Heat?, low oil pressure? I've seen where the lobe rounds off but that looks like the lifter ran dry on the lobe.


Sorry for the delayed response, but I don't check these forums every day. To your question about the cam and lifters; It was caused by running conventional oil (low zinc) with high spring pressures. The owner of this engine did not realize that oils have been "dliuted" in the name of emissions, and didn't spend the extra money on good racing oil with high levels of ZDDP.

It's also interesting to note that this cam and lifters came out of a Barton Hemi and it was still extremely fast - even with the wasted valve train...

Again, sorry for the delayed response.

Southernman
 
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