TTI headers hit torsion bar on drivers side???

-

Brian c

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2009
Messages
158
Reaction score
1
Location
red deer ab
I have a 73 dart, firm feel 1'' bars and tti step headers, with a small block. I put my headers on and went to install the drivers torsion bar and its tight up against #7 pipe. I called TTI and they said that i would have to modify my motor mounts to move my engine over. I have spool mounts so i dont think i can shim them. Anyone else have or heard of this problem? is there any simple solution? any suggestions of how i can modify my mounts? I dont know the make of my mounts and im pretty sure they are a ebay buy, kinda wonder if they could be the problem?

Any info appreciated, thank you!!
 
I have a 73 dart, firm feel 1'' bars and tti step headers, with a small block. I put my headers on and went to install the drivers torsion bar and its tight up against #7 pipe. I called TTI and they said that i would have to modify my motor mounts to move my engine over. I have spool mounts so i dont think i can shim them. Anyone else have or heard of this problem? is there any simple solution? any suggestions of how i can modify my mounts? I dont know the make of my mounts and im pretty sure they are a ebay buy, kinda wonder if they could be the problem?

Any info appreciated, thank you!!



Oh ya, i should have added this. I have not measured engine location yet because im at work but will be doing that tonight. I am just seeing if there in any info in advance. Thanks.
 
I had a similar issue with my Doug's headers with the spool mounts. Nowhere to go really either, between the Milodon road race pan, 4 speed linkage, and 1.12" torsion bars. I just dimpled the header a little. Sucks, but that's the way it goes. Not all of these cars are identical, there are pretty significant body tolerances to take into account between cars. And the larger diameter torsion bars can sometimes eliminate what was a tiny clearance to begin with.
 
I had a similar issue with my Doug's headers with the spool mounts. Nowhere to go really either, between the Milodon road race pan, 4 speed linkage, and 1.12" torsion bars. I just dimpled the header a little. Sucks, but that's the way it goes. Not all of these cars are identical, there are pretty significant body tolerances to take into account between cars. And the larger diameter torsion bars can sometimes eliminate what was a tiny clearance to begin with.

Thanks, i was worried i would have to do that. It really does suck!
 
The number 7 pipe is very close to the stock torsion bar, so the 1 inch bars make it worse.
As far as I know, there is no real solution for moving the engine with spool mounts, and you won't like the alternative.
Heating and relocating the tube is the only decent solution I have ever seen, without having to dimple the tube to clear the bar.

Hope someone has better news, because I'd like to know what it is also.


Edit:
Now I see the other posts from when I was typing.
 
im wondering if its possible to move the mount holes just a tad where they bolt onto the engine. The simple (and sad) plan seems to be to put a dent in it
 
Would shimming the trans mount help? You'd have to double-check the pinion angle before & after. Isn't there a little wiggle room with spool mounts when dropping the engine & mounts into the frame if you tilt it slightly? Kind of "encourage" it with a bar before putting all the weight down. I also leave the mounts loose at the block ears until it's fully saddled.
 
im wondering if its possible to move the mount holes just a tad where they bolt onto the engine. The simple (and sad) plan seems to be to put a dent in it

You may be able to move the mounts a little, or even widen the slots in the mounts on the K to shift the engine over.

I didn't have any options at all, as my Doug's headers are also right up against the inner fender on the passenger side. Moving the engine would have made my fit even worse on the passenger side. Sorry. Not all of these cars, or all of those headers, are identical. Some things fit one car far better than they do another, just depends on how yours rolled off the line.
 
You may be able to move the mounts a little, or even widen the slots in the mounts on the K to shift the engine over.

I didn't have any options at all, as my Doug's headers are also right up against the inner fender on the passenger side. Moving the engine would have made my fit even worse on the passenger side. Sorry. Not all of these cars, or all of those headers, are identical. Some things fit one car far better than they do another, just depends on how yours rolled off the line.

Ya they definitely were not made with a cooky cutter. Guess ill get my but out there and figure some stuff out. Thanks for all the input guys.
 
You may be able to move the mounts a little, or even widen the slots in the mounts on the K to shift the engine over.

I thought about that when I did mine because they were so close with the stock bars and I was going to 1.03's

Thought about cutting the slots in the K brackets off to the side at the bottom of the slot so the engine would slide over a little after the bolts hit the bottom.

I ended up just denting the tube 1/4 inch. :wack:
 
I thought about that when I did mine because they were so close with the stock bars and I was going to 1.03's

Thought about cutting the slots in the K brackets off to the side at the bottom of the slot so the engine would slide over a little after the bolts hit the bottom.

I ended up just denting the tube 1/4 inch. :wack:

Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking, just make the slot in the K frame brackets a little "L" shaped.

Wouldn't work at all in my case, I've got no room to shift the engine anyway. I don't think I dented mine a full 1/4", but it was still painful.

I think the big block headers actually fit better.
 
well i measured the engine location and its in the correct location according to whats on TTI website. Its gonna really suck denting them!!
 
They are to nice to dent!! :banghead:
 

Attachments

  • motor 2.jpg
    52.1 KB · Views: 463
  • motor1.jpg
    50 KB · Views: 445
Bit of an update. So i loosened off all the bolts for the mounts and the engine dropped a bit on the one side and gave me a bit of a gap between the header and torsion bar. I made a little wooden wedge and carefully put it between the bar and header pipe then tighten the mount bolts back out. I have a decent gap but not sure if its enough. Im just going to leave it be for now and see if its making noise when i fire it up. Again thanks for the help!
 
Bit of an update. So i loosened off all the bolts for the mounts and the engine dropped a bit on the one side and gave me a bit of a gap between the header and torsion bar. I made a little wooden wedge and carefully put it between the bar and header pipe then tighten the mount bolts back out. I have a decent gap but not sure if its enough. Im just going to leave it be for now and see if its making noise when i fire it up. Again thanks for the help!

Only one way to find out!

But if you found any room at all it's probably all you're going to get.
 
Ya i definitely won't get anymore room then what i have. Hopefully it doesn't touch when running.
 
How bout wrapping a ratchet strap around the trans/collector/pipe,, so as to suck it away from the bar a smidge more,, essentially bend the headers insteada dimpling them.

just a thought..
 
How bout wrapping a ratchet strap around the trans/collector/pipe,, so as to suck it away from the bar a smidge more,, essentially bend the headers insteada dimpling them.

just a thought..

interesting thanks! I have a bit of a gap now and if it decides to hit and make a bunch of noise i think ill just use header wrap on that one spot and see if that will work.. If that doesnt work i may try your idea.
 
-
Back
Top