Tubular Control Arms and Adjustable Strut Rods Now Available!

[ardentindustries]

Hey all,
Both of these items have been in the works for a long time. Through multiple designs and geometry changes, I feel they are now the best available. Everything I do is TIG welded, making products both superior in strength as well as ecstatically appealing. B-Body arms will be available very shortly. Email or message me with any questions. Thank you.

***Tubular Control Arms*** $375 Shipped in Lower 48.

* Direct Replacement Bolt-On Arms Using the Big Upper Ball Joint
* Manufactured with an additional 3* of caster built into them over stock arms
* 100% TIG Welded
* Sold with Aluminum Heim Joints, Jam Nuts and movable spacers to allow even more adjustability
* Fixture Built to Ensure Accuracy
* Utilizes Threaded Tube Adapters
* Ships Unpainted

***Adjustable Strut Rods*** $190 Shipped in Lower 48.

* Direct Bolt-In Assembly
* All 4130 Chromoly Construction
* 1" Tubing with Weld-In Threaded Tube Adapters(largest available)
* Use of threaded adapters and thin wall 4130 tubing, make these lighter yet stronger than any other available strut rods
* 4130 Teflon Lined 5/8" Heim Joints
* Oil Impregnated Push in Bushings Ensure Long Life
* Eliminates the Stock Rubber Bushings

 

[wjajr]

I currently have a pair of CAP tubular upper control arms installed on a 67 Dart with a negative caster problem that they corrected nicely. That said; I have a few concerns concerning their design, and yours as well.

First, like the CAP product, yours does not have additional gusseting between both arms inboard at the ball joint collar. This lack of gusseting gives me concern regarding cycles to failure at these two highly stressed welded joints. Has a mechanical engineer perform any stress analyses on your design, and put his stamp on it? What kind of stress testing have you performed on your design?

Second. Your rubber dust cup design looks to be superior to the CAP design that I am living with presently. Factory dust cup won’t seal, and CAP’s aftermarket cup does not seal fully to ball joint at any angle as well allowing dirt and water to infiltrate ball joint.

Reason for purchase of CAP UCA several years ago was its ability to adjust up to + 9 degrees, enabling a correction of -6 degrees on one side, and -3 degrees on the other side of my car. Your arm accomplishes the same correction which is a good, as I suspect my car is not the only old Mopar out there with poor front end geometry in need of help.

Third, I had a problem when jacking up front end, UCA would drop down missing stock conical bump stop, splitting dust cup from top to bottom, and once car was back on all wheels cup would fall off. Have you designed your arm to utilize stock bump stop. Or, dose one need to install a wedge stile lower control arm stop or special stop to correct this deficit?

 

[swifter]

I used a lower bump stop with my upper tubular arms that way it will hit the bump stop,Because I had the same problem and I also have the caps and have thought about replacing them with the pst because they have gussets--Steve

 

[Badart]

I think they look great Curley.

 

[ardentindustries]

Thanks for the good word badart. Much appreciated. These do have 1/8" plate type gussets which tie the ball joint socket and both tubes together. These arms also contact the factory bump stops. I'll check to see if it overextends the balljoint too much or not but am pretty confident they do not. Thanks for the input.

 

[inkjunkie]

Outstanding......more stuff to buy some day......

 

[abodyjoe]

product, yours does not have additional gusseting between both arms inboard at the ball joint collar. This lack of gusseting gives me concern regarding cycles to failure at these two highly stressed welded joints.

no need for a gusset if the proper material is used and its welded properly.

 

[AdamR]

Very nice looking products but you need to speak with Joeychgo about becoming a vendor.