Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

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turboJoe said:
I used vht on my bug and it lasted awhile but it went from flat black to light grey to a brownish color. I have read that it works alot better when wrapped, up to 2000 degrees with 0r 1200 without but I dont know if they mean under the wrap or paint it on the wrap I have painted my wrap with it and that does work pretty well, Just gets kinda krusty.
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I got the DEI Titainium Lava rock stuff. Says not to apply the coating to the wrap!?? I blasted and coated the piping and then wrapped it.
 
CUUDAK said:
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I got the DEI Titainium Lava rock stuff. Says not to apply the coating to the wrap!?? I blasted and coated the piping and then wrapped it.
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If yours works good I'll have to try that.
 
Found the answer...... Think I will buy one also.

AEM's wideband air/fuel UEGO gauge kits unite unsurpassed accuracy, speed and control with an easy to read, digital interface. AEM wideband UEGO's also offer a 0-5V analog output for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system, such as the AEM EMS or FIC. The kits feature a Bosch sensor with an accuracy of .1 AFR, making it among the fastest and most accurate widebands available. The bright LED display shows A/F ratio in .1 increments, and the sweeping LED "needle" lines the edge and changes color as air/fuel ratio changes from rich to lean. The digital UEGO's come with both silver and black bezels and white and black faceplates that are easily interchangeable.
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Mad Dart said:
Will this one talk to an ECU also? I am about t buy one of the Innovate wide band units.

Did you get your boost gauge yet?
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Yep! Use the Blue wire! PDF below for instructions.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf


I entended on getting the Innovate LC-1 but when I seen that the module is under the hood 16"s from the exhaust I changed my mind. Lotsa threads stating that the Innovate products are too sensitive to heat and vibration. Good thing with the Uego you get all the goodies internally in the gauge. Good price too!

I have an Autometer analog boost gauge with needle sweep for better accuracy.
 
I just read several pages here, and wish I had been following this sooner. Don't know who you used for your machining, but G & G Performance just past Mueschke and 2920 is good. Chris is one of the brothers that used to own Wycliff Engines. Chris really knows his stuff. His partener is Joe. Joe used to work for Bill Staley, just before Staley met the time clock concrete pole at approx 180 mph. If you need ceramic, teflon, etc coatings... Polymer Dynamics Inc/PolyDyn has a really nice shop over off Jones and 1960, and they do it all. I believe they were one of the 1st few to start doing coatings.
Would love to check out your build the next time I'm out your way. You ever go to the Nifty-Fifties carshow off 249 and Spring-Cypress? Actually on the corner of Spring-Cypress and Champion Forest. I see some really nice Mopars out there. Suprises me how many Hemi's go there.
 
gremlin said:
I just read several pages here, and wish I had been following this sooner. Don't know who you used for your machining, but G & G Performance just past Mueschke and 2920 is good. Chris is one of the brothers that used to own Wycliff Engines. Chris really knows his stuff. His partener is Joe. Joe used to work for Bill Staley, just before Staley met the time clock concrete pole at approx 180 mph. If you need ceramic, teflon, etc coatings... Polymer Dynamics Inc/PolyDyn has a really nice shop over off Jones and 1960, and they do it all. I believe they were one of the 1st few to start doing coatings.
Would love to check out your build the next time I'm out your way. You ever go to the Nifty-Fifties carshow off 249 and Spring-Cypress? Actually on the corner of Spring-Cypress and Champion Forest. I see some really nice Mopars out there. Suprises me how many Hemi's go there.
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Yep! G&G did all my machine work on the block . Took a while but there was some miscommunication on who was building the engine and no written R.O.. I do know about PolyDyn. I also have used Tomball powdercoating off of Alice rd. I know Randy well, he runs the Nifty Fifties street meet. My good friend Joe Keen frequents the meet. He has several Nice Mopars. Yellow Blown 72 Cuda, 63 Maxwedge clone, 63 Fury vert. among a few others. Used to go alot to the old Hop location on Kuykendahl with my 67 notch and 87 Prostreet Ram.
Out here with the watermelons there are a bunch of Mopars in barns and under trees. Old people tell ya, O' I be gonna fix that up some day!! We all know they will end up rotting away! Just 2 miles from me is a 67 383 4spd GTX Vert, in the same field a Warlock truck and a nice Mirada. Old man died a few years back and left it all to his wife and daughter, same story. Gonna fix'm one day! B.S....O'well.

Will have to get together sometime. I haven't made any progress due to the horrible heat but looks like it may start cooling off soon.
 
CUUDAK said:
Yep! Use the Blue wire! PDF below for instructions.

http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf


I entended on getting the Innovate LC-1 but when I seen that the module is under the hood 16"s from the exhaust I changed my mind. Lotsa threads stating that the Innovate products are too sensitive to heat and vibration. Good thing with the Uego you get all the goodies internally in the gauge. Good price too!

I have an Autometer analog boost gauge with needle sweep for better accuracy.
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I did not know about the module. In my set up it would probably work fine if it could go thru the firewall, but the other issues I don't want to deal with. Trying for the stock 1960 muscle car look from the interior to exterior is tough when you need modern gauges for boost monitoring and trying to keep the cost down. All of my other gauges will be needle sweep to get as close to the old school look as possible, the boost gauge may be a challenge.
 
Mad Dart said:
I did not know about the module. In my set up it would probably work fine if it could go thru the firewall, but the other issues I don't want to deal with. Trying for the stock 1960 muscle car look from the interior to exterior is tough when you need modern gauges for boost monitoring and trying to keep the cost down. All of my other gauges will be needle sweep to get as close to the old school look as possible, the boost gauge may be a challenge.
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The o2 sensor lead is only about 16"s long and it plugs directly into the LC-1 module, the lead from the module is 6 feet iirc to the gauge.
All of my aftermarket gauges will be in the glovebox ie. boost and af/r. I want the same Stock look when someone walks up to the Cuda. At least until the hood is open!:prayer: I will have all my factory gauges recalibrated to assure they all work properly. The only aftermarket gauge that will show in the interior is the Autometer tach, thats it. I am removing the glovebox liner and installing all the electronics in there ie MSD 6AL-BTM and the Aeromotive fuel pump controller. My Pops will be in the passenger seat watchin the hidden gauges during the tuning process. I am going for the Stock interior-exterior look as well. Once someone hears the beast running then that will all be out the window:D..

Um, whats that whistling sound?? Uh, a vacuum leak!! LoL!!
 
Hey CUUDAK, Seems we have a cold front today. Must be in the low 90's...lol. Just my luck, I woke up with the room moving and my guts comming up. It feels like an ear infection. I know what you mean about the gonna fix it up some day crowd. Makes you sick don't it.
 
CUUDAK said:
The o2 sensor lead is only about 16"s long and it plugs directly into the LC-1 module, the lead from the module is 6 feet iirc to the gauge.
All of my aftermarket gauges will be in the glovebox ie. boost and af/r. I want the same Stock look when someone walks up to the Cuda. At least until the hood is open!:prayer: I will have all my factory gauges recalibrated to assure they all work properly. The only aftermarket gauge that will show in the interior is the Autometer tach, thats it. I am removing the glovebox liner and installing all the electronics in there ie MSD 6AL-BTM and the Aeromotive fuel pump controller. My Pops will be in the passenger seat watchin the hidden gauges during the tuning process. I am going for the Stock interior-exterior look as well. Once someone hears the beast running then that will all be out the window:D..

Um, whats that whistling sound?? Uh, a vacuum leak!! LoL!!
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Thanks for the heads up on this, I just bought one for myself. I am going to weld in 2 bungs, 1 For the Dyno 02 Sensor and one for this one that goes straight to the MS3.
 
Mad Dart said:
Thanks for the heads up on this, I just bought one for myself. I am going to weld in 2 bungs, 1 For the Dyno 02 Sensor and one for this one that goes straight to the MS3.
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Good choice!
I have read many good reviews on the AEM piece. I like it because of the digital numbers as well as a LED sweep.
Here is a pic for the viewers,
 

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CUUDAK said:
The o2 sensor lead is only about 16"s long and it plugs directly into the LC-1 module, the lead from the module is 6 feet iirc to the gauge.
All of my aftermarket gauges will be in the glovebox ie. boost and af/r. I want the same Stock look when someone walks up to the Cuda. At least until the hood is open!:prayer: I will have all my factory gauges recalibrated to assure they all work properly. The only aftermarket gauge that will show in the interior is the Autometer tach, thats it. I am removing the glovebox liner and installing all the electronics in there ie MSD 6AL-BTM and the Aeromotive fuel pump controller. My Pops will be in the passenger seat watchin the hidden gauges during the tuning process. I am going for the Stock interior-exterior look as well. Once someone hears the beast running then that will all be out the window:D..

Um, whats that whistling sound?? Uh, a vacuum leak!! LoL!!
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Sounds like a great idea! I've heard good things about redline gauge works. They can put new guts in the old gauges too so that would be even better than re-calibrating. I've never had any work done by them, but it might be worth looking into.
 
Mad Dart said:
Trying for the stock 1960 muscle car look from the interior to exterior is tough when you need modern gauges for boost monitoring and trying to keep the cost down.
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I seen a NICE set of "Vintage look" new gauges on Musclecar on Powerblock Tv this morning that they put into that Ford altered.... I think you can go to their site and find who the vendor is.
 
CUUDAK said:
Hey Louis,
I found the link to the gauges they are using on Musclecar on the powerblocktv,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82249/?rtype=10
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Damn those are some big bucks. Probably going to use the Sun repops, they have the look and are reasonable in price. I will probably mount the AFR and boost gauges on the roll cage up high and the other gauges under the dash in front of the console like they did in 1967 ish.
 
Mad Dart said:
Damn those are some big bucks. Probably going to use the Sun repops, they have the look and are reasonable in price. I will probably mount the AFR and boost gauges on the roll cage up high and the other gauges under the dash in front of the console like they did in 1967 ish.
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Yeah,
I had over $700 in the gauges in my Prostreet Ram. They were the Silver with the pearl white Mopar Pentastar Autometer gauges. Pricey but they looked GOOD! Picked up some black textured plastic from Home Depot and glued it to the original bezel with urethane after we cut the center out.
 

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forced 340 said:
very cool build my man!!! you will love the turbo! i know i do!!!!!
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Thanks! You gotta sweet ride too.:prayer:
Seen a few vids of yours. Gotta get to it so I can get it going before it gets cold here. Finishing wrapping the hotside right now. Should have the engine back in it pretty quick then start tuning.
 
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