Turbo six on a Budget

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Because that is something that I can use with a new engine or more hp ect.. and it should last for a longtime if I buy decent parts.
 
KosmicKuda said:
I'm surprised @Charllie_S hasn't checked in yet.
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I'm reading and learning here, also. My turbo system is old school and a draw thru system. So no need for fuel pressure compensation. I just used a holley blue pump, with the Holley "dead head" type regulator. On my nitrous engine/car, I used twin "universal" part store inline electric pumps, in parallel. Pumps at approx 50psi. Each pump is able to run the system alone (that way a pump failure would not cause a lean condition). The pumps fed a return flow regulator, set for 20 psi. Then the fuel went to twin holley "dead head" regulators, one feeding the carb, and the other feeding the nitrous system.
PS: canister type fuel filter between the tank, and the fuel pumps.
 
wont be this time around but I seriously thought of trying to build a home brew draw thru setup for my truck when I started overhauling the engine that's gonna go into it.... maybe do that with the original engine once I swap them? I do still have a volare to finish up.
 
Guy from Gilroy did a blow through truck with my assistance and my old 350 Motorcraft (holley) carb I modded. It worked but I believe he sold it. His profile said he was from Mexifornia? Man, what was his name.....?
 
I am far far from a turbo expert, know damn little about their fundamentals but I'm looking for easy.
I get what the difference between blow thru and draw thru is but which is better?
And for what? I'm talking is one better for a truck that works like one, vs a turbo in a hi perf car?
And following the K I S S rule I'd like to stay carbureted.
 
so this though has still not left my head and i have done a lot more reading this time. My new goal is 300 whp. The best path i see is microquirt for fuel and ignition using batch fire and wasted spark, do a full rebuild on the motor keeping the bottom end stock other then boring the cylinders over. For the head i plan to port it and get a bigger cam and springs ect. My main questions are should i get bigger valves and or deck the block/head. Also is 300whp achievable and what level of boost will that be?
 
Slant Six Bumblebee said:
so this though has still not left my head and i have done a lot more reading this time. My new goal is 300 whp. The best path i see is microquirt for fuel and ignition using batch fire and wasted spark, do a full rebuild on the motor keeping the bottom end stock other then boring the cylinders over. For the head i plan to port it and get a bigger cam and springs ect. My main questions are should i get bigger valves and or deck the block/head. Also is 300whp achievable and what level of boost will that be?
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You know that with a turbo the motor does not need a really big cam. You do need to include the boost pressure when picking out valve springs.
 
my68barracuda said:
You know that with a turbo the motor does not need a really big cam. You do need to include the boost pressure when picking out valve springs.
my68barracuda said:
You know that with a turbo the motor does not need a really big cam. You do need to include the boost pressure when picking out valve springs.
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So keep the stock lift cam but get stronger springs.
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You can go more than stock, but a cam with 270 degrees of duration in not the best.
With a turbo build you want a cam that really limits the overlap.
Check at www.slantsix.org
Several documented slant six turbo builds over there.
 
The stock \6 fuel pump is rated at 19 gph at 4psi. This is good for about 140hp and it will not have enough volume to keep the fuel bowls full.
 
my68barracuda said:
You know that with a turbo the motor does not need a really big cam. You do need to include the boost pressure when picking out valve springs.
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An upgrade in the camshaft department will do the exact same thing to a turbocharged engine that is does to an NA engine. I suggest looking up Richard Holdeners YouTube channel. He has done many many dyno tests.
 
TT5.9mag said:
An upgrade in the camshaft department will do the exact same thing to a turbocharged engine that is does to an NA engine. I suggest looking up Richard Holdeners YouTube channel. He has done many many dyno tests.
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, difference is NA uses the overlap period to enhance the intake charge. As the exhaust is leaving the chamber through the open exhaust valve it makes a low pressure area that sucks the intake charge in through the open intake valve. With boost overlap can have the charge blowing into the open intake and out the open exhaust. So the overlap on a boosted motor, particularly a turbo motor is short.
 
Slant Six Bumblebee said:
I’m going to go with mpfi so I will redo the whole fuel system
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Summit offers an entire EFI fuel system in a box. It's their brand. It includes the pump, the Chevy style filter/regulator, all the lines and fittings. It's pretty nice.
 
my68barracuda said:
, difference is NA uses the overlap period to enhance the intake charge. As the exhaust is leaving the chamber through the open exhaust valve it makes a low pressure area that sucks the intake charge in through the open intake valve. With boost overlap can have the charge blowing into the open intake and out the open exhaust. So the overlap on a boosted motor, particularly a turbo motor is short.
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While I tend to agree with your statement, as with all things there are many factors involved. How bout I ask you this question to validate my point. How much overlap do you think a camshaft cut for a twin turbo 500 inch promod on methanol has? And do you think the overlap for a slant 6 with 8:1 compression and 7psi on gasoline will be the same?
 
TT5.9mag said:
While I tend to agree with your statement, as with all things there are many factors involved. How bout I ask you this question to validate my point. How much overlap do you think a camshaft cut for a twin turbo 500 inch promod on methanol has? And do you think the overlap for a slant 6 with 8:1 compression and 7psi on gasoline will be the same?
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Turbo six on a budget is the title of this post.
 
TT5.9mag said:
While I tend to agree with your statement, as with all things there are many factors involved. How bout I ask you this question to validate my point. How much overlap do you think a camshaft cut for a twin turbo 500 inch promod on methanol has? And do you think the overlap for a slant 6 with 8:1 compression and 7psi on gasoline will be the same?
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Apples and oranges comparo it seems.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Summit offers an entire EFI fuel system in a box. It's their brand. It includes the pump, the Chevy style filter/regulator, all the lines and fittings. It's pretty nice.
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I was unaware of this do you know the part number. is it built for mpfi or a throttle body type system?
 
volaredon said:
Apples and oranges comparo it seems.
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I was merely making a point that your statement was too “blanket” and there are plenty of other variables to consider. While a short overlap cam may be perfect for the OPs slant there are situations where you’d want the exact opposite.
my68barracuda said:
Turbo six on a budget is the title of this post.
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Yes and in the grand scheme of engine building, camshafts are cheap and can make big improvements, even on low boost slant 6s.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I was merely making a point that your statement was too “blanket” and there are plenty of other variables to consider. While a short overlap cam may be perfect for the OPs slant there are situations where you’d want the exact opposite.

Yes and in the grand scheme of engine building, camshafts are cheap and can make big improvements, even on low boost slant 6s.
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That’s another thing how much boost can a slant hold I was hoping to make low-mid 300s at the wheel. What is the first breaking point.
 
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