Turbo slant six torque converter

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Bill Dedman

Bill Dedman

bill dedman
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My partner and I need a torque converter for our slant 6 car.

The engine, hopefully, will make about 500 foot pounds of torque due to our running the engine at about 20-25 pound of boost.

I have people telling me that the original /6 convertor, because it came out of a 170, will work fine in this application, (no street driving, just drag strip action in a 2,500-pound car with 3.55:1 gears and 9"-wide slicks that are 28" tall.) No transbrake.

I have other peple telling me that those OEM 170 converters are absolutely, totally, JUNK and won't last very long at all in an environment like we are going to subject this car to.

Which is it? One guy said I need to pay a tranny guy to cut it open and make sure the vanes are furnace-brazed. Is that good advice? I can get it done for $75.00.

I need some advice from someone who knows, firsthand, about this stuff... I get so confused...

If I can use this OEM converter, it will save me about enough money to pay for our slicks, aluminum radiator, and a new driveshaft. Worth looking into....

Thanks for any information!!!
 
would u think that a tq designed to hold 100hp at most will work for 500 tq? ur 7.25 will be fine to with 9 in slicks... get a good converter... its worth it
 
Bill Dedman said:
My partner and I need a torque converter for our slant 6 car.

The engine, hopefully, will make about 500 foot pounds of torque due to our running the engine at about 20-25 pound of boost.

Thanks for any information!!!
Click to expand...

At what RPM do you expect the max torque? The converter is used to get the engine rpm to the proper point. If you make 100ft lbs of torque at 1,100 rpm, and 500 ft lbs at 3,000 rpm, the car will be a dog off the line, with a stock converter. The cam will also make a difference. Another point, the amount of torque input to the converter, will change the stall speed. It is not likely the stock 170 converter will work for you. My 170 engine makes max torque of 358ftlbs at 2900 rpm, my converter stalls at 3,000 rpm. There are many good converter builders out there. Contact some of them and get their recommendations. A few builders:
Edge
PTC
Dynamic
FTI
There are others.
 
Hi Bill,

We have discussed this before but I have had good luck with the mopar 175k unit for 4 years now. There are 145k and a 165k units available was well. I think the last two would be good choices for you.

Tom
 
Shaker223 said:
Hi Bill,

We have discussed this before but I have had good luck with the mopar 175k unit for 4 years now. There are 145k and a 165k units available was well. I think the last two would be good choices for you.

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom, are there any other numbers by which I might find that 175K? No place I try to locate one has a number anything like that.

Not even ebay....:read2:
 
.[/QUOTE]
There are many good converter builders out there. Contact some of them and get their recommendations. A few builders:
Edge
PTC
Dynamic
FTI
There are others.[/QUOTE]


Thanks, Charlie. I am new at this /6 bidness, and can't answer your questions, but I think this engine is goiung to have a torque peak of about 500+ foot pounds at about 3,600 rpm. That's just a guess.

Traction is definitely going to be a problem....:cheers:

We'll see!
 
Thanks, Charlie. I am new at this /6 bidness, and can't answer your questions, but I think this engine is goiung to have a torque peak of about 500+ foot pounds at about 3,600 rpm. That's just a guess.

Traction is definitely going to be a problem....:cheers:

We'll see![/QUOTE]

how are u calculating ur power numbers? a desktop dyno? im just curious
 
Bill, what year crankshaft are you using? The pilot hole in the end of the crank, changed size between 67 and 68. The transmission input shaft also changed size at the same time. If you have the early crank, I doubt you will find a converter "off the shelf", and you would have to run the early transmission. You can run the late trans, with the early crank, but it requires a custom converter (that is what I run). Most common is the late crank and late trans, converters.
 
805moparkid said:
7.25 will be fine to with 9 in slicks... get a good converter... its worth it
Click to expand...
Get a good rearend too... its worth it. That 7 1/4 will tear up in no time at all with that much torque and 9" slicks. The STOCK slant in my dart has put so much stress on my 7 1/4 that the fluid now has metal shavings in the the differential housing and the spider gears are about to shred (anu day now, I'll be stranded on the side of the road). Thats with 205/70/R14 all season tires on it. 500ft-lbs. coupled with slicks will grenade your rearend resulting in possible tranny damage.

Go get an 8 3/4...
 
Charrlie_S said:
Bill, what year crankshaft are you using? The pilot hole in the end of the crank, changed size between 67 and 68. The transmission input shaft also changed size at the same time. If you have the early crank, I doubt you will find a converter "off the shelf", and you would have to run the early transmission. You can run the late trans, with the early crank, but it requires a custom converter (that is what I run). Most common is the late crank and late trans, converters.
Click to expand...

I have a 67 273 with the same small crank pilot hole (1.56) & the 17 tooth transmission input shaft. PTC made us up a converter at no extra charge. Just make sure you tell them your special requirements ahead of time.
 
IfItsGotWheels said:
I have a 67 273 with the same small crank pilot hole (1.56) & the 17 tooth transmission input shaft. PTC made us up a converter at no extra charge. Just make sure you tell them your special requirements ahead of time.
Click to expand...

Correct. You can get whatever you need, but you need to be aware of the differences. My converters are built with the small (early) pilot, and the large (late) input shaft splines. I have three. Two Edge converters, and one PTC rebuilt old TCI. The Edge concerters are 9 1/2 inch and the PTC/TCI is a 8 inch. That way I can use any combo of engine/trans.

Early engine/early trans, by installing the late trans "front" parts in the early case.

Late engine/late trans, by using an inexpensive "adapter" bushing in the end of the crank.

Late engine/early trans, by using the crank bushing and the late trans "front" parts.

Early engine/late trans, use the converter as bought.
 
805moparkid said:
Thanks, Charlie. I am new at this /6 bidness, and can't answer your questions, but I think this engine is goiung to have a torque peak of about 500+ foot pounds at about 3,600 rpm. That's just a guess.

Traction is definitely going to be a problem....:cheers:

We'll see!
Click to expand...

how are u calculating ur power numbers? a desktop dyno? im just curious[/QUOTE]

I have a friend who has a very similar engine that he has dyno'd. I'm building a copy-cat engine that should be a little stronger than the one he dyno'd. His made 500+ pounds feet of torque.
 
/6 Matt said:
Get a good rearend too... its worth it. That 7 1/4 will tear up in no time at all with that much torque and 9" slicks. The STOCK slant in my dart has put so much stress on my 7 1/4 that the fluid now has metal shavings in the the differential housing and the spider gears are about to shred (anu day now, I'll be stranded on the side of the road). Thats with 205/70/R14 all season tires on it. 500ft-lbs. coupled with slicks will grenade your rearend resulting in possible tranny damage.

Go get an 8 3/4...
Click to expand...

Matt, the first thing I did when I got this '64 Valiant was to install a '65 Cornet (B-Body) rear end. Bought wheels with the increased offset to make up the difference in width. People selling A-body rear ends are convinced they are worth more...

Thanks for the advice.
 
Charrlie_S said:
The Mopar Preformance part numbers are:
145k= P4876805
166k= P4876876
175k= P4876877
Click to expand...

Thanks, Tom. This crank is a '64 (small hole.)

And, thanks to everyone who responded. Due to a variety of conditions, I'll probably just order a converter with custom spec$.... :angry7:
 
Bill Dedman said:
Thanks, Tom. This crank is a '64 (small hole.)

And, thanks to everyone who responded. Due to a variety of conditions, I'll probably just order a converter with custom spec$.... :angry7:
Click to expand...

After talking to some local sources, I discovered that:
1. The "snout" on the front of the converter that goes into a receiver hole in the back of the crank flange changed diameter in either 1967 or '68. It got a lot bigger.

I knew that.

What I did NOT know was that at the same time, the spline count on the converter (internal) female hub changed from 18 to 27 splines, so the later (1967-up) converter won't work with either the crank, OR the 904 (input shaft.

With that information in hand, I went to a local source for Dacco converters who just HAPPEN to stock an early snout/late 27 spline converter, part number 762-S.

Of course, this is a stock converter (less than $100.00, I believe) with really low stall speed. I am having them raise the stall to 3,000 rpm.
Now, it's $425.00. Oh well....

Now, if I can get our tranny back, and get a driveshaft made, some slicks, and a radiator we'll be in bidness!!! :cheers:
 
[/QUOTE]
What I did NOT know was that at the same time, the spline count on the converter (internal) female hub changed from 18 to 27 splines, so the later (1967-up) converter won't work with either the crank, OR the 904 input shaft.
[/QUOTE]

If I'd been paying attention, Charlie TOLD me this in a previous note, but It didn't register in my old, worn-out brain.

So, I owe Charlie an apology for not reading a little closer to the page!

Sorry, Charlie.... I'll pay more attention from now on!:read2: (for MY OWN benefit!!!)
 
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