Turning key is a crap shoot

[gtgto]

I could use some help pinpointing my issue. I have had my 72 340 Duster for a few months and it could only be started at the relay with a screw driver. This past weekend I removed all of the connectors at the bulkhead and cleaned them up with a wire brush. I got in the car and depressed the clutch and turned the key to the start position and nothing like it has always done in the past. I kept turning the key from on to crank and every few times, sometimes more than that the starter would then turn over and start the engine. I would love to have the engine turn over everytime instead once every 5-10 times. Any help wpuld be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bulldozer]

ground the starter relay to the body. metal on metal

 

[1969383S]

What ever happened to using your meter or test light with shop manual in hand?

This is why Del took a break for a while!

The clutch switch should provide the ground to the relay. The ignition switch provides +12v to energize the relay on key switch to start. One of the two is missing or the relay/ ignition switch up to including all associated wire connections are at fault. Very simple to isolate with a test light and manual.

 

[1969383S]

Sorry! Had to rant a little.

Seems no one wants to do a little leg work anymore or even try! The art of fixing these cars seems to be disapearing.

 

[1969383S]

Also does it have a seatbelt interlock?

 

[gtgto]

Go easy on me....I do have a meter and also a set of reproduction shop manuals. I was just looking for a hint or two....hahaha. Electrical is definitely not a strong suit of mine. It seems odd that for the few times I turn the key and get nothing then it turns over so why a connection problem and then no problem? The interior except for a beat up bench seat and Hurst shifter is gutted. How would I know if I have interlocking seat belts?

 

[Bulldozer]

Go easy on me....I do have a meter and also a set of reproduction shop manuals. I was just looking for a hint or two....hahaha. Electrical is definitely not a strong suit of mine. It seems odd that for the few times I turn the key and get nothing then it turns over so why a connection problem and then no problem? The interior except for a beat up bench seat and Hurst shifter is gutted. How would I know if I have interlocking seat belts?

dude , see the picture I posted ? ground that terminal to the body. if it starts every time you have a ground problem, theres your hint. there is a clutch safety switch connector there now, which provides a ground connection when the clutch is pushed in. follow the wire inside the car and you will see the switch mounted behind the clutch pedal. the switch is probably going bad. you want a quick fix , I just showed it to you. just remember it will start without the clutch being pushed in now. the starter relay case MUST be grounded to the body. clean all that up. your 72 does not have a seatbelt interlock

 

[RedFish]

Sounds like ignition switch to me. Manually operated switches are always suspect. Simple diagnose on the yellow wire from that switch to the relay, A factory service manual and a test lamp. Replacing that switch isn't so simple. The internet and this forum can only supplement the manual.

 

[67Dart273]

ground the starter relay to the body. metal on metal

Just make sure you get the right terminal. Some cars, those two "push on" connectors, can be reversed.

Take a test light, see if you can identify which "push on" relay wire is YELLOW this is coming out of the bulkhead from the ign switch. Put your light on that wire while hooked up and it should light when key is twisted to start.

As 73 said, ground the other terminal. On automatics, this goes down the firewall to the transmission neutral safety switch, on stick cars it goes into the interior to the clutch switch

It could easily be a bad relay, a bad terminal in the bulkhead connector, or a problem at the clutch / NSS