U joints

[nodemon]

72 Demon.
Originally a 318 a233 car.. Now has an a833.
I purchased a slip yoke from Brewers, which is quite a bit longer than the original. I went to install the new u-joint on the yoke and something is off.
I bought 2 u-joints from Napa (315G)...and there are two different size joints in the boxes....another issue perhaps.. but neither fit the yoke.
Will the old slip yoke that was used with the a233 work with the 4 speed..?

 

[Professor Fate]

Will the old slip yoke that was used with the a233 work with the 4 speed..?

If the four speed is a '66/'67 unit with the 26 spline output shaft, it will work. If it's a '68 and later 833 with the 30 spline output shaft, it won't.
Easy answer: Try it.

 

[67Dart273]

LOL. If you bought 2x 315G's and they are different sizes, or if the caps are different, somebody miss-boxed them

There are two common sizes used in Mopars, 315G is the precision part no. for the smaller series. If your shaft is all set up the proper length, and the U joints are not the same for the shaft and the yoke, the best way would be a different yoke. I don't remember the part. no, there is a "conversion joint" which would fit the smaller shaft and the larger yoke, if that is what you have

 

[SMCARNUT]

315G is the 7260 (small) u-joint, 316 is the 7290 (large) u-joint cannot remember part number for the combo joint

 

[SMCARNUT]

My brain just started working 347 is combo u-joint 7260 to 7290

 

[67Dart273]

Thanks. I sold parts in a previous life, at two different stores, for over 14 years. I NEVER thought I would forget those numbers LOL

 

[RustyRatRod]

Did you not open the u joint boxes at the store and check them?

 

[Locomotion]

Brewers should say what u-joint fits the new yoke you bought.

Denny's u-joint specs

 

[Vaanth]

Some additional numbers and brands for the Detroit 7260/7290 combination universal joint, FYI:

• 347 (Moog/Precision/Torque)
• 20226 (TRW/Federal Mogul)
• 114527 (Borg Warner)
• P347 (NAPA)
• P347 (PTC) (old number 360)
• UJ347 (SKF)
• 2-0527 (NEAPCO)
• 25-3244X (Dana Spicer) (old numbers 5-3244X, 5-527X)
• U527 (Mcquay-Norris)
• 527 (Perfect Circle)
• CP527X (Rockwell/Meritor)
• XF527 (Xact-fit)
• 20527 (AAP)
• K527 (Rockford)
• 2400369 (GMB)
• G5369X (NIKKO)
• 20527DL (Neotek)
• 3133-C (MotorMaster)
• 360 (Allied Eastern Corporation (AEC))
• 45U0169 (ACDelco)
• 114527 (Amgauge)
• 847733 (Northern Auto Systems)

(Excerpted from the in progress rewrite of my "A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide")

 

[nodemon]

Did you not open the u joint boxes at the store and check them?

I did not...but you're right, I should have.. I've actually bought something before, got it home and when opened it was obvious it was a returned / used part with greasy finger marks on it and opened / missing parts bag.
Then, trying to return that and explain, "It wasn't me" is iffy...

 

[RustyRatRod]

I did not...but you're right, I should have.. I've actually bought something before, got it home and when opened it was obvious it was a returned / used part with greasy finger marks on it and opened / missing parts bag.
Then, trying to return that and explain, "It wasn't me" is iffy...

It's happened to all of us at some point. Unfortunately in this day and age nobody gives a **** about the customer's needs anymore so we have to look out for ourselves. When I sold parts, I always took parts out of boxes with the customer there and inspected them. It covers everybody's butt. That way, the customer caint come back and say "I found this old POS used part in the box" and if the part is wrong, we'd know before they left the store. There's no down side to good customer service and since it's non existent, we have to do it ourselves. Sad, really.

 

[Scody21]

If you have calipers, Measure the cups and spread.

I Don't use serviceable ie ujoints with the grease fitting as they are prone to cracking at the machining for the zerk fitting

 

[nodemon]

If you have calipers, Measure the cups and spread.

I Don't use serviceable ie ujoints with the grease fitting as they are prone to cracking at the machining for the zerk fitting

So, the inside openings of the yokes are the same, approx. 2 1/8".. It's the "wall" thickness that is different on the new yoke.. it's thicker.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you have calipers, Measure the cups and spread.

I Don't use serviceable ie ujoints with the grease fitting as they are prone to cracking at the machining for the zerk fitting

Most dual purpose cars will not have that much power......unless the u joint is a cheap chinkesium POS.

 

[Vaanth]

So, the inside openings of the yokes are the same, approx. 2 1/8".. It's the "wall" thickness that is different on the new yoke.. it's thicker.View attachment 1716355596View attachment 1716355597View attachment 1716355598

If the yoke inner dimension is the same on the two yokes and the u-joint caps fit both the yoke bores ("D" in the following diagrams) and the C-clips will fit the caps installed in the yoke ("G" in the following diagrams), that shown thickness of different casting/machining should not matter. The depth of the outer edge of the cap will sit a little deeper in the new yoke bore.The retention is by the C-clips that install in the inner yoke area.

7260 Distance between retaining rings	G1	2.125"
7260 Cap Outside Diameter	D1	1.078"
7290 Distance between retaining rings	G2	2.625"
7290 Cap Outside Diameter	D2	1.125"

 

[Scody21]

Most dual purpose cars will not have that much power......unless the u joint is a cheap chinkesium POS.

Well most are nowadays…

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well most are nowadays…

Yes, but thankfully, Dana/Spicer are still around. IF you can find them that have not been reboxed. Probably best to buy them from a heavy duty truck parts house. IF you can find one.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Will your drive shaft have to be modified?
Drive shaft shop is your friend here, and they can get all of the parts you need. Find out where one is near to you, your in the St. Louis area, that's what I do. Go solid joints if you can. There's a drive shaft shop in your area, find it.

 

[nodemon]

If the yoke inner dimension is the same on the two yokes and the u-joint caps fit both the yoke bores ("D" in the following diagrams) and the C-clips will fit the caps installed in the yoke ("G" in the following diagrams), that shown thickness of different casting/machining should not matter. The depth of the outer edge of the cap will sit a little deeper in the new yoke bore.The retention is by the C-clips that install in the inner yoke area.


View attachment 1716355630

View attachment 1716355629

7260 Distance between retaining rings	G1	2.125"
7260 Cap Outside Diameter	D1	1.078"
7290 Distance between retaining rings	G2	2.625"
7290 Cap Outside Diameter	D2	1.125"

You are so correct.. What was really throwing me off was the caps being recessed. I was in conversion with Dan Brewer and he explained exactly what you posted and said.
My inexperience slows me down and overshadows commonsense and my confidence at times. All is good now though, at least with this issue...and now it's on to the next surprise gremlin that'll undoubtedly pop up. Seems like the closer I get to finally getting this project on the road for the first time, the simplest things are causing issues.
Thanks for your response and input..!

 

[nodemon]

Will your drive shaft have to be modified?
Drive shaft shop is your friend here, and they can get all of the parts you need. Find out where one is near to you, your in the St. Louis area, that's what I do. Go solid joints if you can. There's a drive shaft shop in your area, find it.

Man, I hope not.. I've been told that it's the same shaft for the a233 I had and the a833 I installed..
The slip yoke I had to buy is longer than the a233 yoke, but everything seems to line up ok length wise.

 

[CRUZE 418]

Gremlins? Everyday!