uca bolts

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Then, yes you should support the LCA. It would be hard to put it back together otherwise. But, maybe another question is why are you removing the cam bolts? If it is to replace them you should still support the LCA, but done one at a time it might not be much of an issue.
 
FIRST thing great how to on installing plates on the lca i did that and when corning its great.I am chasing a noise,cant find it,new front end everything moog parts.W hen i bounce the front end up and down there is a noise,i have felt around when a buddy is pushing up and down,the right side was making the same noise.so i have tighten the cam bolts,now no noise,but the left side i have tried the same when i turn the nut on the cam i hear that noise,i am lost,the 71 satellite is going in for the ailment Thursday but its bugs the hell out of me.The upper bushing does not look like it slipping either.Thanksfor your help Jim
 
Did you grease the UCA cam bolts when you installed them? And are they torqued to spec?

There was an issue with one of the new cam bolt manufacturers not cutting the flats deep enough awhile back, the eccentric washer would bottom out before the bolt was putting enough clamp pressure on the UCA mount. If you have new UCA bolts it’s worth checking.
 
72bluNblu said:
Did you grease the UCA cam bolts when you installed them? And are they torqued to spec?

There was an issue with one of the new cam bolt manufacturers not cutting the flats deep enough awhile back, the eccentric washer would bottom out before the bolt was putting enough clamp pressure on the UCA mount. If you have new UCA bolts it’s worth checking.
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no grease on the bolts,the eccentric are oem,as for torqued there very tight,as said the right side was doing the same thing,tighten them up as tight as i can with out my torqued wrench noise gone but STILL there on the left side. i have done a few front end rebuild in the past never had this problem.thanks 72bluNblu.
 
I always grease those bolts. They’re not a press fit or anything, the bushing insert rides on those bolts and that’s metal on metal. When everything is tight the motion of the UCA should just be up to the flex in the bushing and not the bushing spinning on the bolt. But the UCA bolts don’t get as high a torque spec as the LCA pivot pin and they’re not a press fit, so you’re probably getting movement between the bushing and bolt.

And “very tight” doesn’t mean much. That could be a higher or lower torque than the spec, and either can cause problems.
 
72bluNblu said:
Just like I said, grease the bolts and torque them to spec. Final torque with weight on the suspension.
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could you give me step by step on how to get the bolts out.thanks.the arms wear a tight fit when i first slid them in.
 
Snake said:
could you give me step by step on how to get the bolts out.thanks.the arms wear a tight fit when i first slid them in.
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The arms don’t have to go anywhere.

Put the car up on jacks, loosen the torsion bar adjusters, then work on one bolt at a time so you can leave the UCA in place. Take off the nut, slide the bolt out, grease it, and re-install it. You can use a screwdriver or small pry bar to get behind the head of the eccentric and get the bolt moving. Repeat until you have all of them greased. Tighten them up snug, then set the torsion bar adjusters back to where they were. Put the car back on the ground, and then torque them to the factory spec.
 
72bluNblu said:
The arms don’t have to go anywhere.

Put the car up on jacks, loosen the torsion bar adjusters, then work on one bolt at a time so you can leave the UCA in place. Take off the nut, slide the bolt out, grease it, and re-install it. You can use a screwdriver or small pry bar to get behind the head of the eccentric and get the bolt moving. Repeat until you have all of them greased. Tighten them up snug, then set the torsion bar adjusters back to where they were. Put the car back on the ground, and then torque them to the factory spec.
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Did you just describe something similar to what is in the FSM?
 
No reason to loosen the torsion bar adjuster. Support the car on the LCA and, as stated remove one bolt and a time, grease it, and put it back in. Nothing should get out of place that way as there really isn't any weight on the upper arm.
 
Jim Lusk said:
No reason to loosen the torsion bar adjuster. Support the car on the LCA and, as stated remove one bolt and a time, grease it, and put it back in. Nothing should get out of place that way as there really isn't any weight on the upper arm.
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If you support the car on the LCA’s the suspension is loaded. That means there’s load on the UCA, and that means there’s load on those bolts.

Can you still pull one out at a time? Probably. But the suspension being loaded will just make the job harder. More likely to have a bind on the bolts, more likely for the UCA to pop out of place when the bolt is pulled, and stored energy in the loaded bars to bite you in the *** if something goes sideways.

No thanks. Takes a minute to unload the adjusters, minute to put them back. Count the turns on the way out and on the way back in and no problems.
 
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Well i tore into it and greased the bolts,and no noise now after a spin around the block,so i hopen it fix.thanks 72bluNblu,and jim lusk.
 
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