Upgrade to stock Alternator these days for the /6?

[Cruisingram]

My alternator probably didn't come with the car, but it looks like it did. I have been out of the parts game for a while, and going to be adding a couple electrical components that I definitely will like a strong alternator to run! I will be adding AC, probably replace the wiper motor- as it is pretty old too, don't know if that will be a bigger or lessor draw honestly, a little power-port connector I can run a small invertor off of when needed, 15amp max there- probably halogen lamps, etc. You guys have an alternator from a certain make or model you think is best? I don't need the cop high output from the 80s monster I don't think LOL

 

[Darter6]

Look for a mid 70's square back with 74 amp rating. Don't overdo it on amps like 100 amps.If O.E wiring, your bulkhead connector and wiring may not take the extra amps.

 

[67Dart273]

I would FOR CERTAIN inspect the bulkhead connector and ammeter wiring. I would NOT put anything on the stock wiring larger than a 50, using stock wiring. There are tons of threads on here about this subject.

What year/ model are we working with?

Also cast a slanted eye at the "new" one. IT IS TOO OFTEN that isolated field (incorrectly called dual field) alternators come with one field terminal GROUNDED, yet the rebuilder/ manufacturer has left the flag terminal on the alternator. IF YOU use a 70/ later regulator, this means there is a 50-50 chance of problems, including a short that will burn up wiring.

 

[MadScientistMat]

I am using a Bosch alternator for a 1989 Ram 318, rated at 100 amps (definitely not being run through stock wiring; there is a trunk mounted battery and I am using heavy duty feed through terminals on the firewall). I believe it needed a little fiddling with to clear the lower bracket, and I am using a rod with a spherical bearing at each end in place of the stock upper bracket. Works with stock solid state voltage regulators - I'm using one of my V101 units. It is able to run a 16" Flexalite fan at idle without discharging the battery.

 

[Mattax]

With A/C probably best to change all the pulleys to match, and if possible consider a solenoid to bump the idle speed with the A/C running.
As far as what you need, add up the power requirements of the items you want to tack on. Then look at whether this inverter and other items can be run straight off the alternator. Taking power straight from the alternator can avoid loading the bulkhead connections etc. Similar to when using a relay to power the headlights.

I *beleive* a Leece-Neville alternator was used for ambulances etc that had 110 AC outlets. Never seen it myself. Also be worth looking at the various 'fleet' options for heavy duty alternators and batteries.

 

[Cruisingram]

With A/C probably best to change all the pulleys to match, and if possible consider a solenoid to bump the idle speed with the A/C running.
As far as what you need, add up the power requirements of the items you want to tack on. Then look at whether this inverter and other items can be run straight off the alternator. Taking power straight from the alternator can avoid loading the bulkhead connections etc. Similar to when using a relay to power the headlights.

I *beleive* a Leece-Neville alternator was used for ambulances etc that had 110 AC outlets. Never seen it myself. Also be worth looking at the various 'fleet' options for heavy duty alternators and batteries.

This is very good advice, all of it, not just this one LOL- I know my 68 bulkhead fitting is original, probably crusty as hell. Makes me think I am going to upgrade some wiring first, then yes, run an invertor right off the altenator and bypass the bulkhead connection entirely. When I install the 225 in place of the 170 there now, I plan on also installing AC.