upgrading my 360

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ef8340

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hopefully by this weekend i'll have my duster sold and with the extra cash im planing on fixing my dart it has a 88 360 motor in it and its pretty much new but it has a R/V style cam im wanting to wake it up alittle more so far my motor has a 650 thunder series eldebrock carb and a performer 318/360 intake, headers, 904 trans with a high performace valve body stock stall and a 8 3/4 rear 3:23's. i also have a M1 single plain intake aswell but i want to be able to drive my car on a regular basis. so far i've selected a cam kit from summit K20-223-3 im thinking this is the 268XE not sure though.
i'd like to get a noticible cam sound and very responsive
thanks for any imput
 
I'm not an expert but I'll weigh in. According to Comp's catalog, that is a good street machine cam, and works with a stock convertor. I'd use the Performer intake as it's a dual plane. That and a decent set of headers ought to wake your 360 up pretty nicely!!
 
Use the performer, the M1 needs alot of compression and cam.
 
The M1 single plane is a 3000-6500 rpm intake.
 
Go with the performer RPM intake. I just put one of those on my 360 with a 650 carb and I can def. feel a difference. Also if you have money get the heads worked over.
 
well i sold the duster so i now have the cash to do this. i've been researching this and i have another ? for you all. my 360 is a 88-89 year and im pretty sure it has the roller cam in it. im getting the comp cam kit K20-223-3 268XE cam will this cam kit be a roller cam aswell? it looks like it is not from the pic on the summit site. also if not will i need to get different length pushrods? Push rod length changed from about 7.5” down to 6.78”, and diameter shrunk from 0.360” to 0.3125”? if so will stock 318's work?
 
That is a Hyd. Cam. You need to read the full description of the part before ordering. The Summit site has a disclaimer on there pictures.

If you already have a roller cam engine, the. Go with a roller cam instead of taking a step backwards to a Hyd. cam.
 
Here is a link to Comp Cams 2012 catalog. I've been spending quite a bit of time on there.

I would verify that you truly have a roller cam LA block by pulling the intake and having a looky see. If you are already running a roller cam, it should look like this.

imagejpeg_2-1.jpg


If the block is a roller but doesn't have a roller cam in it, it will look like this.

IMG_20120720_202835.jpg


Already having a block set up for roller lifters can save you about $400 because you don't have to buy retro-fit lifters. Honestly, if you are just wanting to wake up your 360, a good hydraulic cam and matching springs would do you fine.
 
i know for sure that it has a roller cam in it and after looking at the prices i might as well give up all together. i have 720.00 bucks to spend the 268XE inst even offered in a roller set up plus they start at over a grand for kit set up
 
He should stay with the rose cam and save himself a headache in new length pushrods.
While the roller cam is pricey, it is a swap right in and go part. The ease of it all and quick instal will have him on the road in no time flat with what he has making more power over the Hyd. cam.

There are plenty of small rollers out there. Asking Comp Cams to custom cut a rollers me the one heisted above is easy for them to do and will only take a few days to make.
 
You can get the cam and springs for ALOT CHEAPER!
A full kit is not needed.
 
No. You can run the OE lifters. There for a Hyd. cam that the engine was Equiped with. Just get a Hyd. roller cam and the valve springs to match it. Your done. Install them and drive away with grins.
 
still gonna end up spending more than just buying one of those cam kits heck the dar cams are in the 300 plus range......i give up
 
I don't see what your complaint is. Your looking at gaskets, cam and springs.
300 for a roller cam.
How much for springs? Another hundred?

Miles ahead of a Hyd. cam.

A Hyd. Cam and lifter set plus springs, new custom pushrods equal headache, more down time, less performance......

What did I miss?
 
If $500 bucks is to much for you, I have bad news. That is considered a cheap price. I think that this whole game is over your head and to deep for your pockets.
 
pretty much i guess, i only have 700 no one ever said mopar was cheap i guess i'll just keep the lame R/V cam in it and do something else bummer
 
ef8340 said:
pretty much i guess, i only have 700 no one ever said mopar was cheap i guess i'll just keep the lame R/V cam in it and do something else bummer
Click to expand...

Why don't you just drive it as is for now and enjoy it while saving money?
 
ive been driving it this way for the last 3yrs and enjoying it but was really wanting to do a cam swap but there is other stuff on the to do list as well.
 
That's why I suggested you keep saving money so that you can do the cam in the possibly near future
 
That's what those raised castings around the lifter bores are for! I was wondering about that. I have a '90 vintage block 318 that has those and the threaded bosses down the center. Oh well, next cam will get to be a roller..........
 
ef8340 said:
pretty much i guess, i only have 700 no one ever said mopar was cheap i guess i'll just keep the lame R/V cam in it and do something else bummer
Click to expand...

I guess I don't get it either.

The Comp cam 20-614-9 looks to be a decent street cam, and it has oil holes for your rockers and a long snout for your fuel pump. It is $332.95 at Summit.

It requires these 901-16 Comp springs that are $62.95 also at Summit.

The Cloyes True Street double roller timing set 9-1103 is $47.95 at Summit.

Reuse your lifters and pushrods, buy a set of gaskets and you're back on the road for less than $500. What seems to be the problem??
 
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