Use a table ban saw to hack off the 340 piston crown .

-
$120 for bearing spacers? Just to cradle the crank in a 360 and take measurements. Get real. One time use and then I will probably be stuck with em. I don't spend that kind of cash just to take a simple measurement....I guess everyone out there likes there cash as water through there fingers...hope none of you are trustees to financial responsibilitys.
 
A machinist would put the bearings and spacers in, and install main cap, then measure with a bore guage and micrometer. Afterwards, then measure the crank with the micrometer or veneer calipers.

The at home method would be to install spacers, bearings, and crank, but use plastiguage.

Spacers would be a one time buy, but might have to buy different bearings if the measurements aren't right.
 
Yunick13 said:
A machinist would put the bearings and spacers in, and install main cap, then measure with a bore guage and micrometer. Afterwards, then measure the crank with the micrometer or veneer calipers.

The at home method would be to install spacers, bearings, and crank, but use plastiguage.

Spacers would be a one time buy, but might have to buy different bearings if the measurements aren't right.
Click to expand...
 
I Just want to measure the stock piston placement, with the 4" 318/390 or 3.79" crank mains are 2.5" in the 360 mains at 2.810" useing stock length rods. One Time deal. That will tell me too get the /buy the 3.79"or 4"crank with 360 mains. I have the 4" 318 crank in hand.
 
Jessearent said:
$120 for bearing spacers? Just to cradle the crank in a 360 and take measurements. Get real. One time use and then I will probably be stuck with em. I don't spend that kind of cash just to take a simple measurement....I guess everyone out there likes there cash as water through there fingers...hope none of you are trustees to financial responsibilitys.
Click to expand...

You do understand that the difference between an engine that runs for 100k miles and one that blows up instantly comes down to 0.001" or less of too much or too little bearing clearance... Right? Do you realize just how small of a distance that is? That's why you don't use a soft compressible material like freaking chewing gum or wood to set your bearings in for measuring. This is beyond amateur hour man, you're the one who needs to "get real."
 
man, the more i read about this the more i think you and uncle tony should collaborate on this build. the ideas for machine work and the engineering behind this just make for what could possibly be the most epic youtube series in mechanical stupidity wonderment in ages!
 
I read this thread for entertainment value only.
The OP no matter how bad he wanted you to believe could ever, ever be this dumb.
Even Jethro Bodine was smarter.
Even the time he dipped Uncle Jeds truck in tha cement pond to wash it was a better idea.
 
even i wouldn't use a band saw for cutting pistons, a grinder maybe? :rolleyes:
i've used inappropriate tools a lot over the years for jobs their designers would cringe at. i just take my time and get the job done, an extra hour of my time is preferable to buying a tool i'll probably never use again so.......
 
I was reminded of this thread today while attempting to scrub burnt egg off a frying pan with the rough side of a sponge before realizing I need a Scotch Brite scouring pad. As is with anything using the wrong tool makes it a pain in the *** and usually ends up with shitty or "good nuff" type of crap results.
 
MopaR&D said:
You do understand that the difference between an engine that runs for 100k miles and one that blows up instantly comes down to 0.001" or less of too much or too little bearing clearance... Right? Do you realize just how small of a distance that is? That's why you don't use a soft compressible material like freaking chewing gum or wood to set your bearings in for measuring. This is beyond amateur hour man, you're the one who needs to "get real."
Click to expand...
who says I am gonna do a complete assembly, and start the engine. I am not. You guys don't seem to be able to comprehend a simple paragraph Also the shallow research you post for me is outdated. Bearing spacers at SW performance cost / quoted me $400. But the .001" info is right on.
 
Who says I am gonna assemble the engine and run it? I am not. Most of you guys dont seem to be able to comprehend a simple paragraph. Also, the shallow posts are outdated. Bearing spacers at SW Performance quoted me $400 not $120.... But your spot on about the .001", so I give you a thumbs up anyway.
 
the current price of the spacers just to hodge podge together a load of mismatched parts just reinforces what everyone has said about getting the right (off the shelf) parts in the first place. you'll be time and dollars ahead in the long run. and don't forget all this started with you're dislike of paying machine shop prices (to do the job right). :poke:
 
Still dislike paying machine shops, and there's nothing wrong with fitting parts together that cost way less than the main stream media advertises at...and I remind everyone, I haven't /won't assemble an engine with 7.5cr-8.5cr or one with 10.8cr( Aluminium heads limit cr) or higher. And when all is said and done, I will have the correct amount of weight that was added or removed (heavy metal)(size of holes drilled) and there location. Yes, the machine shop I will use is out in the "sticks" and they are not swamped with work, and they will get me balanced with precise info for my crank/rod/piston combo....so next time,with the same combo, I will do the balanceing.!! No cost...seems that kind of info is top secrect among all you "professionals"....or maybe no one wishes to share. Either way , I will have gotten what I need for future builds, no thanks to the "know it all" heklers. Here.
 
mygasser said:
the current price of the spacers just to hodge podge together a load of mismatched parts just reinforces what everyone has said about getting the right (off the shelf) parts in the first place. you'll be time and dollars ahead in the long run. and don't forget all this started with you're dislike of paying machine shop prices (to do the job right). :poke:
Click to expand...
 
Hell, all I want to see is the ten thousands cut taken off the crown with a twenty seven thousands thick blade.Yes there will be turbulance
 
340six said:
I read this thread for entertainment value only.
The OP no matter how bad he wanted you to believe could ever, ever be this dumb.
Even Jethro Bodine was smarter.
Even the time he dipped Uncle Jeds truck in tha cement pond to wash it was a better idea.
Click to expand...
 
Your to smart 340six..be quiet....unless you have some specifics about scats 4" forged crank . How much does the machinist remove and where, if useing 715 gram rods and bolts and stock TRW Forged flat top pistons weighing??? How deep and wide are the holes....or, hell I would just be satisfied if someone could give me the accurate grams of one of those pistons/is .030" over with rings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top