Used main cap bolts to replace windage tray bolts OK for a mild (400 hp) 360?

[65 Cuda 340]

I'm replacing the stock 1974 Duster 360 oil pan in my 67 Barracuda with Kevco. The Kevco pan has its own windage tray, so I don't need the factory windage tray that's in the motor now. I know I could just leave the OEM windage tray main cap bolts in, but I'd like to pull them and save them with the OEM tray if it's not too much trouble. From my research, running aftermarket bolts or studs with different torque requirements ideally would require align boring or honing the mains. I don't want to do that now, just want to replace the oil pan.

I have a bunch of used main cap bolts in my stash. Would there be any problem just digging four of them out and using them?

 

[Demonracer]

As long as you have the block and caps align honed, you will be good.

 

[65 Cuda 340]

As long as you have the block and caps align honed, you will be good.

No, not taking the motor completely apart now. Just want to replace the oil pan. (Also the cam.)

I can leave the present main cap bolts in, just wondering if it would be OK to swap four of them with used stock type bolts.

By the way, the block and caps have never been align honed. The short block was just a stock type rebuild back in 1991, stock crank ground 10-10, stock rods reconditioned with good bolts, .030 cast pistons with stock deck height. It ran 13 flat last summer with 3.55 gears and a .450 lift cam. Just want to see if I can get into the 12s with a hotter cam. Down the road, plan is to make it a stroker motor. But not now.

 

[Demonracer]

Do whatever you wish, but align honing will cure any possible problems. Do to usage, age and core shift there might be a problem that will cost you money later down the line. Ask me how I know.

 

[65 Cuda 340]

Do whatever you wish, but align honing will cure any possible problems. Do to usage, age and core shift there might be a problem that will cost you money later down the line. Ask me how I know.

Okay, sounds like the safest thing would be to leave the main cap bolts alone then.

 

[Mean416]

It's one of those things where you'd probably be alright but a small chance you wouldn't.

If it was me I'd pull the caps to inspect the bearings. Same for the rods. But I'd reuse the current bolts and windage tray.

 

[dogbreath]

swapping the 4 windage tray main bolts for 4 regular main bolts will not change or hurt anything

 

[toolmanmike]

I'm replacing the stock 1974 Duster 360 oil pan in my 67 Barracuda with Kevco. The Kevco pan has its own windage tray, so I don't need the factory windage tray that's in the motor now. I know I could just leave the OEM windage tray main cap bolts in, but I'd like to pull them and save them with the OEM tray if it's not too much trouble. From my research, running aftermarket bolts or studs with different torque requirements ideally would require align boring or honing the mains. I don't want to do that now, just want to replace the oil pan.

I have a bunch of used main cap bolts in my stash. Would there be any problem just digging four of them out and using them?

I don't see that align honing would be necessary if you are just swapping bolts. Swapping main caps is a different story.
If you don't trust the old used bolts, buy some ARP bolts.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you were replacing the main CAPS I could see line boring, but just the bolts? No.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

You can replace them with factory non windage tray bolts. The torque spec would be the same so I don't see an issue. I did it when eliminating the windage tray going to kevko pans. Also I know many that added the windage tray bolts on engines with no issues. When using Studs or changing to bolts with a different torque spec you could run into a problem.

When ever an engine is rebuilt using different fasteners It should be line bored just to be sure it is correct . Steve also uses 2 torque plates when power honing. Also several Race engines will require sleeves to correct the bore spacing off the dowel pins for the head to ensure the combustion chamber is at the correct placement for each cylinder. You would not believe how many engines are incorrect after being bored at off the wall shops. This affects valve placement to piston and combustion balancing.

Steve builds a lot of High RPM engines Gas and Diesel engines. Last picture is a Caterpillar Look at the new piston difference. The placement is critical.

I would use the bolts . Inspect the threads to be sure they are even and not pulled

 

[Locomotion]

I hate to disagree with other experienced racers and/or builders but I never had nor can see any problems what-so-ever if the OP wants to simply replace the 4 OEM main cap bolts that have windage tray provisions with 4 good OEM standard main cap bolts. You have the same size, material and torque specs. With that perspective on bolts, it would be recommended that you align hone if you kept but mixed up the full original set of bolts! It's not like a cam & lifters.

Align honing is a good idea at the right time. OEM factory machine work & tolerances were never that accurate which is why there is normally a good performance increase, reduces wear and saves money in the long run when an engine is "blueprinted". When the engine is apart for future upgrades, everything can be checked and remachined as needed then.

In the meantime, if the OP decides to sell the set of OEM tray, 4 main cap bolts and tray attachment bolts to fund future mods, they will all be available.

If the original tray main cap bolts are retained in the block, their clearance to the built-in tray in the Kevco pan should be checked.

I took too long composing!

 

[65 Cuda 340]

I have a new Molnar 4 inch 360 crank and a set of their rods (thanks ProStockTom). Will definitely align bore or hone the mains when I stroke this 360. Etc., etc. After reading all the comments, I think for now I'll take the quick and low budget route of just swapping bolts, swap cam, and see how it runs.

Meanwhile, I have all the parts to build a stroker 340 for my 65 Barracuda. Will I last long enough to build (or get built) two more motors? They are on my bucket list. Stay tuned!

 

[Oldmanmopar]

After buying several Kevko pans . I am not happy with the quality. Make sure you fit it dry many have deformed pan rails . They must use defective pans to build them. Look at the welds these are 2 different pans. Both severely bent at the end seal. Ultra seal will be needed if used, even after straightening

 

[Professor Fate]

The "steps" in the block and caps locate the caps, so switching to a factory non-windage tray fastener on the original caps should not noticeably change anything. Do them one at a time if you're still concerned with them shifting around.
Remember, 340/360 bolts are a touch longer than 273/318 bolts...

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Your not messing with the thrust cap so you could pull the cap off and check the bearing. If you remove the thrust just snug it . hit the crank back and front then torque them. Many times bearings are checked on engines for wear and just reinstalled. Especially on Top fuel , funny cars and alcohol dragsters. Sometimes pop in new bearings and retorque. I wouldn't worry to much about it on a street engine.

Back in the old days the babbit 216's if they were loose we would put the cap on a belt sander and tighten the clearance up in the cars or trucks. I did my tow truck every spring.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Your not messing with the thrust cap so you could pull the cap off and check the bearing. If you remove the thrust just snug it . hit the crank back and front then torque them. Many times bearings are checked on engines for wear and just reinstalled. Especially on Top fuel , funny cars and alcohol dragsters. Sometimes pop in new bearings and retorque. I wouldn't worry to much about it on a street engine.

Back in the old days the babbit 216's if they were loose we would put the cap on a belt sander and tighten the clearance up in the cars or trucks. I did my tow truck every spring.

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Did you ever get that truck back? I know you had found it at one point.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Did you ever get that truck back? I know you had found it at one point.

When the guy found out it was mine he wanted $5000. No way was I going to travel to Tennessee with the rig and pay that much. Let it sit there. He sold the front end and the engine. Its a shame my son wanted to have it restored . He grew up traveling with me in that truck. Offered him $2500 he wouldn't budge. I know where my 56 is but the 53 was my Dads when he was killed . Pics are from 40 years ago. There is no way my grandson or granddaughter would fit on my lap like that today. My belly would have them squashed against the steering wheel

 

[TT5.9mag]

The only time line honing or boring is necessary is when you change the fastener AND the clamp load it creates. Like going from a bolt to a stud. If you’re replacing the stock windage tray bolt, with a stock (non windage tray) bolt and the torque spec is the same then deformation of the cap will be the same at the same torque value. Do it and don’t think twice about it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

When the guy found out it was mine he wanted $5000. No way was I going to travel to Tennessee with the rig and pay that much. Let it sit there. He sold the front end and the engine. Its a shame my son wanted to have it restored . He grew up traveling with me in that truck. Offered him $2500 he wouldn't budge. I know where my 56 is but the 53 was my Dads when he was killed . Pics are from 40 years ago. There is no way my grandson or granddaughter would fit on my lap like that today. My belly would have them squashed against the steering wheel

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Well I sure am sorry. I know yall were lookin forward to gettin it back.

 

[Mopar Sam]

I have a bunch of used main cap bolts in my stash. Would there be any problem just digging four of them out and using them?

No problem at all. I grabbed a full set of stock bolts from a coffee can when I put my 414 together. I used stock head bolts too with my aluminum heads, I did put hardened washers under them.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

There is no way my grandson or granddaughter would fit on my lap like that today. My belly would have them squashed against the steering wheel

Ah, the "dunlop disease". Your belly done lopped over your belt!