Using LX (New Charger/Magnum/300) Wheels on a 74 Dart

has anyone tried machinig the rotor hub down to fit in the wheel with out the spacer?
just trying to viualize where its hitting and iff its possible to run these with out a spacer?
Too bad their so damn ugly. They look great in my opinion on the wagon, look like .... on the A bodies.
Not a clue to be honest. The first set of Magnum wheels we tried on a '73 Charger, thought they would fit, but ended up taking a BIG aluminum hogger on a die grinder with hours of grinding to make em fit. The '66 Coronet there we just threw up on a mill with the tire still on LOL. I think it has something to do with the center caps, but I'm not sure. And another set for a different coronet we had milled out. But the Chrysler 300c wheels just fit right on.

Hi TeamDart Can you tell me exactly where you milled these wheels at (center hub,lug nut holes etc.) I need help... thank you.
Just went and looked at a beautiful set of 10 double spoke 300C wheels today (local Craig's list). Cast lettering into back of the spokes identified them as 17X7s. Answering a question asked earlier in this thread, the back spacing over the bead flange to the mounting pad was 6". Would have sprung for them if they had been 8 or 9 inches wide.
No sorry but I will have to call bs on the 2 different sizes. there is no way possible that the wheels would have 2 different bolt patterns that would be an extreme waste of cash having 2 different sets. the base model steel wheels are a 5x115. so why change for other wheels. they work they bolt up but I won't trust them on my car.

I deal with these Modern Mopars on a daily basis and can tell you for a FACT that the wheels he is looking at are 5x114.3 (4.5") I'll pull out the books and even measure the set i have at work just for you.
I deal with these Modern Mopars on a daily basis and can tell you for a FACT that the wheels he is looking at are 5x114.3 (4.5") I'll pull out the books and even measure the set i have at work just for you.

Pm me when you figure it out please. Been thinkin of puttin SRT wheels on my Duster
Any more people with LX wheels on a-bodies?

Maybe any on early a-bodies?
They were, just FYI.

Bumping this up because I found a guy selling a set on craigslist in PA (too rich for my blood) that had had them on a 74 Duster.
I emailed him to see if he had done anything special to them, and he said that they fit fine, he didn't have anything at all modified about the car.

This excites me, now I just gotta keep searching!

You say late model Charger rims will work on a 1974 Dart. I was thinking of putting some on mine but was put off by the small difference in the bolt pattern i.e. 114 mm. Are you saying the late model rims will work fine on my 74 Dart Swinger?
I have a thought about the center caps how about oversizing the center cap hole and using a center cap from a dodge caliber


I do have a question about spacing out the wheels. How does it affect the handling? How's the bump steer or under steer. Just curious before I go to all the trouble to do mine since mine is intended to be a daily driver.
Found a set of Chrysler 300 wheels, back spacing and bolt pattern worked perfect. 18x7.5 rim with 245/40x18 tires. needed the extra clearance for the RMS suspension that's on its way for the front.


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What are you guys using for lug nuts that have the charger/300 wheels it feels like they are in too deep
just need to change the rear tires, gonna go same size front and back then ill be happy with how it looks

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Bringing this post back from the dead. Not because I have proof of anything but because I have a new and interesting data point in regards to the whole late model bolt pattern discussion.

I’ve been working on a swap using Scat Pack 4 piston Brembo calipers and rotors. The most recent stage was figuring out how to get the SP rotor centered on the cut down hub. The hole in the center of the rotor is just slightly bigger than the pilot area on the hub, but it is tight enough that no machined ring could possibly be made (2.85” OD and .015” wall).

Since I bought a 3D printer for this project, I figured why not print up some bushings to fill in the gap between the 16.6mm holes in the rotors and the 1/2" wheel studs to center the rotor. So, I did up some bushings that had the centers offset to match the 115mm LX bolt pattern and the 4.5” A-Body pattern. Because it looked visually like the patterns actually match, I also did some that had the hole centered and had a uniform wall thickness.

Guess which one fit best? The bushing with the uniform wall thickness. They fit great in all 5 holes and the rotor slips on and off very nicely.

In this case, this is a used rotor that according to the JY tag came off a 2006 Magnum SRT-8. The counter guys said it was an OEM rotor that had been hanging on their wall for years, but no idea how they knew it was an OEM rotor. Either way, I am pretty sure the rotor is drilled for a 4.5/114.3mm bolt pattern. Just no way these bushings would fit otherwise.

Now, I am not saying that all LX/LC cars have a 4.5” bolt pattern. I have a couple of Brembo drawings that show a 115mm bolt circle and Brembo seems to be pretty tight on their parts so I would bet a rotor from them would not fit like this one does. Nor does this mean that the bolt pattern on the hubs of an LX/LC car would match the rotor. The holes are pretty big so it is possible that this rotor would slip on just fine even if the late model hub had a 115mm bolt circle.

But I do find it interesting that it appears this possibly OEM rotor has a 4.5 bolt circle rather than a 115mm bolt circle.

Here’s some pictures.