using rod ends

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Hi Y'all,

I am in the process of mocking together my project car before it comes back apart for paint. One of the things i was thinking about doing was using heim joint style rod ends for the clutch rod from the pedal to the Zee bar, then from the Zee bar to the clutch fork. I can prob spec these out thru Grainger.

Anybody here do this?
What size rod ends did you use?
What kind of improvements did you notice?

Thanks
Matt
 
I've seen it on a few applications. You would use three heim joints and still have a cup and socket unless you revamped the fork. It was easier for me to go hydraulic.
 
I have the steel cup for the adjuster to the fork that replaces the rubber cushion as well. I prefer old skool setup
 
It's a bunch of work for little gain. You certainly won't go backwards doing it. I had to build my own clutch linkage for my last race car. I did all the math, made it all adjustable, all that crap. When it was all over, to make it so I could drive it through the pits I ended up with almost factory MoPar ratios!!!! If I made it much faster than that, it was like driving with a toggle switch for the clutch.
 
Here's a few shots of how I'm doing mine. It's not finished yet so I cant give you any input on how well it does or doesn't work.

Ted

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I did this on my F-150. Its a good option if your rods and Z-bar are worn or in my case using a trans that was never in that year f truck and was hydraulic.
 
The one and pretty much only problem I have with Heim joints is the lack of dirt and dust protection in most cases.
Well greased with a nice protective cover and I'd be all over them for some things.
Otherwise you are just building something that will wear out faster than any other option.
 
I dont intend to drive this car in inclement weather, however we use spherical rod ends in a lot of places on the aircraft i work on. The good ones have wiper seals around the ball perimeter to help keep dirt out. These last a fairly long time in this environment. (Dont tell me aircraft arent or dont get dirty like cars are either) the stuff i work on isnt corporate aviation, i work on commercial regional aircraft. Basically a flying bus. Needless to say these put up with dirt, dust, lots of vibration, and even at their most worn out condition they will have less slop than the factory setup.

I have heard with a diaphragm type clutch its a bit more tricky to set the linkage adjustment. I imagine that has to do with the slop in the factory linkage.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I have heard with a diaphragm type clutch its a bit more tricky to set the linkage adjustment. I imagine that has to do with the slop in the factory linkage.
Click to expand...
The 'Slop" in the factory linkage matters not a whit, if all the parts are there and correctly installed.
Set the clutch departure properly on any street clutch, and you will not have problems. Some diaphragm clutches like to have less spring-assist on the pedal linkage.
I DRIVE my car. Sometimes 4 seasons. Linkage "slop" has never even entered my mind.I'd like to say that I wouldn't waste my time with heiming those parts, but that just sounds rude.......
 
AJ/FormS said:
The 'Slop" in the factory linkage matters not a whit, if all the parts are there and correctly installed.
Set the clutch departure properly on any street clutch, and you will not have problems. Some diaphragm clutches like to have less spring-assist on the pedal linkage.
I DRIVE my car. Sometimes 4 seasons. Linkage "slop" has never even entered my mind.I'd like to say that I wouldn't waste my time with heiming those parts, but that just sounds rude.......
Click to expand...


^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If the clutch is correct it will shift and drive nice. Whole lotta work for little to no reward, other than the cool factor.
 
I agree with AJ and Yellow, If everything is not worn out and is set up correctly, stock works fine.
 
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