V-8 Steering Link

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6

66dartman

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Last night I installed a V-8 center link to replace the /6 one in the car. Now the drivers side inner tie rod end rubs the torsion bar slightly. The V-8 link seemed to be a little longer than the /6 piece. It seems like the pitman arm needs to be longer with the V-8 link, but I have not heard that before. Am I missing something? It's a 66 Dart BTW.
 
why doesn't a /6 link work in a v8? it seems like the pans go down the same distance, and does it matter if you use schumacer mounts insead of a v8 k-member swap? I just don't know why mopar would make two different parts if a v8 link would work for a slant six. maybe I'm just sick of finding parts
 
what is the center link from? Is it a pre 67 piece? front ends got wider in 67 so if it a 67 or newr it will be a little longer.
 
The center link that I bought on ebay said it was for 66-72 cars. The Schumacher engine swap book says to swap a v-8 into a /6 car you need the steering center link from a v-8, 64-72 car. The one I bought was definitly wider and drops down another inch in the center. I don't know if the pan will hit when the 360 goes in on the original center link but I am putting it back in. I have my tie rod ends threaded all the way in just to get 1/16 toe. I think the 67-up center libk must be different than the 66-earlier. I will dimple the pan if the original one rubs.
 
You will need a center link from a 66 or older. I don't really think dinting your pan will really help you all that much. I got one from a 65 for my 66 and had no problems.
 
I have center links of both types. One is for a power steering setup and the other for manual steering. There is a difference. You can't mix the two. The manual steering is the one that drops an inch or two. Could this be the problem?

Jack
 
On my 64 I went with what they had listed like you said 67and up. Well it's to wide and you can't adjust the tie-rods enough to keep them straight and the steering wheel centered. You have to use the V8 64-66 centerlink from any A-body. It would require about an 1 1/2" dent in the pan all the way across it from what I can remember. And the early V8 pan also had a dimple or two to help with this so you could get equal turning lock to lock.
 
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