Vacuum diagram for stock 72 Dart 318?

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7dart2

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Hello all,

Being unemployed now, I find myself with time to chase problems with my 72 Dart. Next up is making sure my vacuum lines are where they belong. I've looked all over the interwebs, & even found the free Chiltons repair manuals, but can't locate any vacuum diagrams within.

318 automatic w Carter. Just a stock driver.

Some of the current background on it is...

Threw timing chain a year ago & replaced with new. Ever since, it's been running rough. Timing has been checked.

New push rods helped a lot. Motor mounts too.

She idles rough & hesitates, but runs smooth at highway speed.

Carb can probably use a kit as I'm starting to see a little fuel around the base now, but 1 thing at a time.

As far as the vacuum goes, nothing is glaringly obvious to me. A friend that pitches in & helps me says WE moved things around, but I don't recall that. I remember connecting things where they belong.

Any help would be appreciated guys & thanks.



 
There is a '72 FSM floating around here that you can download. Try a search using '72 FSM and Abodyjoe (I think that's who posted it). Also, someone else posted the vacuum diagrams for '72 just a few days ago...
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clhyer said:
There is a '72 FSM floating around here that you can download. Try a search using '72 FSM and Abodyjoe (I think that's who posted it). Also, someone else posted the vacuum diagrams for '72 just a few days ago...
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Click to expand...

Thank you for the heads up clhyer. I'll do just that.
 
Bump*

Thought about starting a new thread, but this has pertinent info regarding work on the car.

Got the carb rebuilt a month or so ago. No change. It idles rough & when put into gear, it gets worse. The guy that did the carb work knows his stuff. From the vac diagrams I obtained I had a concern about a vacuum line. When he went through the carb & put it back on, he attached the line like the diagram specified without me even having to mention it, so I think the vacuum is good. No change in performance.

At about 15-25mph, it gets a shudder & then smooths out as you pick up speed. It hesitates & sometimes dies on initial acceleration also, 2 things it never did previous to the thrown timing chain, which makes me think it does in fact have something to do with the timing.

Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated. If I left out anything, feel free to ask. I'd like to get this thing running like she used to.

Thanks.
 
It probably bent some valves when you lost the chain. That's very common on a small block. Did you do a compression test?
 
cudamark said:
It probably bent some valves when you lost the chain. That's very common on a small block. Did you do a compression test?
Click to expand...

That's what I was afraid of. I did attempt to check compression, but needed an extra hand. I still haven't returned the gauges to my friend. Better get that done then.

What kind of reading should I be looking for, give or take. It's currently got 75k original miles on it on it.

Thanks cudamark.
 
I'd expect to see 125 to 150 PSI on that engine if it's cranking good and fast but 115 or 120 across all cylinders would be ok. more than 150 and you probably have some carbon buildup. You want the the highest and lowest reading to be within 25lbs or so of each other. Anything below 100 is a problem cylinder.....bent/leaky valve or bad rings.
 
cudamark said:
I'd expect to see 125 to 150 PSI on that engine if it's cranking good and fast but 115 or 120 across all cylinders would be ok. more than 150 and you probably have some carbon buildup. You want the the highest and lowest reading to be within 25lbs or so of each other. Anything below 100 is a problem cylinder.....bent/leaky valve or bad rings.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the input. If I recall, I was getting somewhere in the vicinity of those numbers, but like I said, it was challenging to do it myself I get accurate readings.

Having done everything I could think of, I'm going to wager this is my problem.

Much appreciated.
 
Took more readings, but the gauge was suspect. I'll give it another go soon with another gauge.

My initial thought was if it was wear on the rings, it would have been going bad slowly. As soon as I replaced the timing chain, it ran poorly & had a little more noise coming from the engine.

Bent valves? I'm hoping. At least that might be financially possible.
 
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