Valiant-Give it gas and head lights brighten.

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valiant100

valiant100

valiant100
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Mar 13, 2007
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Orange County CA
Okay 1968 318 Valiant with this issue. I have converted to electronic ignition, dual field alt (new), New 74 voltage regulator, by-passed the ammeter, and bulkhead connector bypassed with two 10 gauge wires with fusible links to starter relay. The car's lights are way brighter and car is charging awesome but I still have head lights and dome light brightening when I give the car gas. Lights are not fluctuating, this is only when I give it gas. Is this normal? and what should I try next. I'm a little baffled.
 
Thanks. While waiting for a reply I had the car running and connected a portable coleman air compressor to the cigarette lighter switch. I turned the compressor on and the dome light dims. Once I stop it, it returns to normal. No fluctuation, steady power. Looks good to me, any comments. Thanks, much appreciated.
 
valiant100 said:
Thanks. While waiting for a reply I had the car running and connected a portable coleman air compressor to the cigarette lighter switch. I turned the compressor on and the dome light dims. Once I stop it, it returns to normal. No fluctuation, steady power. Looks good to me, any comments. Thanks, much appreciated.
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These older alternators don't put out as much current at idle as the ones on current production cars. You can put a smaller pulley on the alt. but then it turns a wicked RPM up high. When you bring the RPM's up a bit at idle, that is the clue that the alt needs to spin faster to supply more juice.
 
Thanks for reply. Will leave as is. Just reconnected my stereo by new power wire with inline fuse to positive battery cable. Reconnected 2-6x9's and 2-3 inch speakers. Drove car up and down block with stereo on. No problems all seems to be working fine. Current fluctuation when pedal pressed-I can live with. Also new mini starter from scrap yard, best 31 bucks spent. Can't believe starting power made by these little guys. Mine from 95 Ram.
 
You've probably done this already, but, check all your connections, especially grounds. Lots of electrical problems are associated with lousy ground connections.
 
One of the reasons I updated the electrical system with the new style fuses and wiring harness from Ron Francis 25 years ago. This was so I can run whatever alternator, H4 or whatever headlights, LED tail lights, sound system and a ton of new world technology. Anyone can restore a car but it takes a real man to chop it up ( George Barris )
 
You could always upgrade to a big alternator. I myself have a 200 amp one, do I need that much nope but I got it anyway. I don't want any excuses when I what to beat on my car.
 
1970Duster said:
..........You could always upgrade to a big alternator. I myself have a 200 amp one............
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A great big not to mention huge alternator is NOT the solution for a stocker wiring harness with all it's built-in pitfalls, namely

the infamous "bulkhead connector"

wiring that is just plain too small gauge

the also infamous ammeter

Back in the day, I had a certain amount of amateur radio gear in my 70 sixpack RR and EVEN THEN, when the wiring was a lot newer than these girls are today, I had problems. the car had the "optional" 60? 65? amp alternator, and I ended up drilling out the bulkhead for the main feed wire and running larger ga. wire straight through. I also had the dash apart at least once to "tighten up" the ammeter connectors. If I recall correctly, the entire circuit of the ammeter depends on the plastic of the dash casting to "be tight." VERY poor design, Ma.
 
No more ammeter and no more bulkhead on mine. Working very well so far. Will check splices (some soldered) periodically to check on wires.
 
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