Valve Spring Dampner

[JimmyV]

hey guys i have a question for you... i have the eddy heads bought completely assembled noticed there is a spring dampner (what i would think to be doesnt look like a spring its flat) would i need to remove this during cam break in or since its not a second spring would i be ok? i am wondering because of this sad fact my cam went flat on the #4 exhaust lobe..apon tear down it looked like the lifter was not spinning and that it just ate into the cam..my lifter bore was free and clear and the lifter spun in bore with my fingers.. called comp and he said there is harldy every a problem with there cams that would cause the lifter not to spin but if the bore is free and clear and spins with ease wouldnt the maching of that cam lobe be to blame? isnt that supposed to spin it? any way just wondering if i should remove that inner spring or dampner before my next cam and does anybody have and good cam recomendatiosn probably going to go with the same cam 294s unless someone tells me other wise haha engine specs are..eddy heads 10.5 1 pistons victor intake i have a 3000 stall holley 650 double pumper 1 5/8 headers exhause just past doors..any recs on cams?? it was a sad day indeed but now im excited going to make some changes..has anybody ran the milodon gear drive..what are those like how noisey are they?

 

[70aarcuda]

the spring damper is to reduce harmonics in the valvetrain...

no need to remove for cam break in...

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

check the guide on that exhaust valve and the pushrod hole for shine/contact.

 

[moper]

The 294s is the cam you were running? If so the Edelbrock springs are not strong enough. Not enough spring is as bad as too much and will wipe a cam just as fast. You cannot use "max lift" to see if a spring is usable. You have to use the pressures, and the RPM supplied springs are lighter than the dual assemblies Comp wants (p/n 995-16) should be around 150lbs on the seat and 365lbs over the nose and that's only with a true lift of .485" after lash and pushrod angles.

What you need to do, aside from using the right springs and breaking it in on the outers only (yes, you're right that the dampener flat wound wire is not considered a spring and stays in place...), is you need to check for lifter rotation and the actual lifter bore diameter. If the bores are bigger than .906 you may have a problem. To check for rotation, put the lifters on the cam dry... no break in lube, with a little WD40 on the lifter body (not oil). Mark the top of each lifter and bore with a felt tip marker, then rotate the engine. As each lifter rides up and down the lobe, it will (or should) rotate very slightly each time. If under this setup a lifter doesnt turn, swap them around until they all do. Then, add the break in lube on the lobes and install the lifters in thier respective bores. Turning the lifters by your hand does not take into account the bore size (wear), or the angles of the lifter bores (which vary drastically in factory machining). The lobe has to turn them.