Valve Springs for break in......?

[Jlcaptain24]

440 w/factory 452 rebuilt heads....with factory springs. My thoughts was to use the softer factory spring for cam break in (hydraulic flat tappet) then swap springs.

I'm running summit 6401 Cam
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:234
Duration at 050 inch Lift:224 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:298
Advertised Exhaust Duration:303
Advertised Duration:298 int./303 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.466 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.466 int./0.488 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):114

The closer I get to firing the engine off, the more nervous I get about stuff. Does what I'm doing make sense?? Or is coil bind going to be an issue??

Regards,
Jason

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

The lift isn't necessitating a lot of pressure, so just run the recommended spring , rev it between 2200/2800 rpm ,fluctuating, and relax. Mainly people have trouble with fuel, burping the cooling system and timing...so keep an eye on those and have a garden hose ready, fill the bowls with fuel through the bowl vents and have the timing light hooked up and timing quickly set to around 35 degrees total/full advance or what was "recommended by the builder"

 

[Jlcaptain24]

The lift isn't necessitating a lot of pressure, so just run the recommended spring , rev it between 2200/2800 rpm ,fluctuating, and relax. Mainly people have trouble with fuel, burping the cooling system and timing...so keep an eye on those and have a garden hose ready, fill the bowls with fuel through the bowl vents and have the timing light hooked up and timing quickly set to around 35 degrees total/full advance or what was "recommended by the builder"

Thanks for the reply. Well, the "builder" is me. This is my first time building and engine from ground up. I've rebuilt a ford 4.2 to stock specs, but it was a roller cam and I wasn't terribly vested, financially or otherwise, in it. All went well though. I know, i'll change the springs....later or now, doesn't make a difference, right?? Except I'm pretty eager to light it off and really want to know if I can with existing springs without hurting anything. I know I can't spin it to 5000rpm with stock springs...but figured 2500ish would be fine as long as the spring don't bind. Which I'm 90% sure they won't....but not positive. Thanks for the input!!

 

[Jlcaptain24]

Bump. Anyone have a firm answer on this?? I ordered Comp Cam 911-16 Springs....and they will be installed, but I'm of the mindset of it'd be less stress to break the cam in with stock 452 springs. Will this work? Or will they bind? Thanks all.
Jason

 

[toolmanmike]

The 911's are a single spring with a dampner and don't require a lighter spring for break in. These springs are a good stock replacement with 122# seat and 309# open pressures. If you are running a double or triple spring you should remove the extra coils for break in. You're ok.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

The 911's are a single spring with a dampner and don't require a lighter spring for break in. These springs are a good stock replacement with 122# seat and 309# open pressures. If you are running a double or triple spring you should remove the extra coils for break in. You're ok.

Thanks Mike. I'm running a single spring...currently factory springs are in there. Engine is assembled and very close to lighting off. My whole build I planned on breaking it in with the factory springs....I knew i didn't HAVE to, but figured it'd reduce stress as they're softer. Now I'm second guessing myself and wondering if they'll bind...I don't think they will, but am uncertain.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You were given a firm answer in post #2. Put the recommended springs in and let her rip for cam break in.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

I wouldn't waste energy switching springs on such a small cam, seriously... just break it in with the recommended springs.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

You were given a firm answer in post #2. Put the recommended springs in and let her rip for cam break in.

Respectfully, I wasn't. The question I've posed is will there be a problem with breaking it in with the stock springs. I know I can break it in with the comp cam springs.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

I wouldn't waste energy switching springs on such a small cam, seriously... just break it in with the recommended springs.

Thanks for the reply. That's kinda the rub...stock springs are already in there. I'm switching springs....I'd just rather do it after I break the engine in if I can. Thought process is: less stress on the cam/lifters. This has been the plan all along, just looking for verification that it'll work.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Thanks for the reply. That's kinda the rub...stock springs are already in there. I'm switching springs....I'd just rather do it after I break the engine in if I can. Thought process is: less stress on the cam/lifters. This has been the plan all along, just looking for verification that it'll work.

Well if you're trying it...id stay at 1800-2200 rpm, but I don't recommend trying it. No need to reply, just do as you'd like and good luck...but check for coil bind 1st and i would be weary of that seat pressure.

 

[Lustle]

I don't get why you don't wanna switch springs now? You have to switch them anyways. Why risk damaging anything by switching them later? I fail to see the benefit? Just do the work, switch em now. And do it right.

Just how I see it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't get why you don't wanna switch springs now? You have to switch them anyways. Why risk damaging anything by switching them later? I fail to see the benefit? Just do the work, switch em now. And do it right.

Just how I see it.

Yup. Some folks are hard as bricks. It's not my car and my money so piss on it.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

I don't get why you don't wanna switch springs now? You have to switch them anyways. Why risk damaging anything by switching them later? I fail to see the benefit? Just do the work, switch em now. And do it right.

Just how I see it.

It seemed logical to me that it would be easier on the cam/lifters to use the stock springs with less pressure. My question was to find out if it's safe to do. That's all. THAT'S the reason for not switching them now. Honestly, I thought it was a pretty simple question. Apparently, not.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

Yup. Some folks are hard as bricks. It's not my car and my money so piss on it.

Hard as Bricks? Seriously Rob? I thought I posed a pretty straightforward question. Can 452 springs work with above cam? I have yet to receive an accurate answer. While I realize the entire internet forum isn't at my beck and call, I'm not guaranteed an answer, and in fact may not get one.... This is basic reading comprehension: Answer the question that's asked, not what you want to answer. But what do I know, I'm hard a brick.

 

[Marcohotrod]

if breaking in the cam with used stock springs was the plan, which is not a bad idea, then at the time of assembly coil bind should have been measured. any spring shims used? take some measurements now. I think U can go for it, but from here I am assuming

 

[moper]

IN terms of pressure - it would be. But - there is a good chance the factory spring cannot work with the lift of the cam. Not to mention if the springs are so weak the lifter bounces - it's all moot anyway because the cam will get eaten. Change the springs before you fire it. And replace the valve seals while you're in there.

 

[Jlcaptain24]

IN terms of pressure - it would be. But - there is a good chance the factory spring cannot work with the lift of the cam. Not to mention if the springs are so weak the lifter bounces - it's all moot anyway because the cam will get eaten. Change the springs before you fire it. And replace the valve seals while you're in there.

That's the insight I needed/wanted. THANKS!!!