very basic question on paint.

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Pawned

Pawned

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Here is a question to all your body guys and gals.

1971 Plymouth Duster.
I just did a couple of samples of single stage paint and base/clear coat paint. From Sherwin Williams.
I literally can not tell them apart. Would I have a problem if I put clear coat over single stage paint?
I may postpone the paint until I decide if I want a hood scoop and or trunk wing/spoiler

I check the price of PPG paint and they literally want twice as much for their paint as does SW.

This is my third shot as painting this car. Once with color/clear and once with single stage.
Kinda of a semi medium length story. Best left off

Thank you in advance for your help
 
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Pawned said:
Here is a question to all your body guys and gals.

1971 Plymouth Duster.
I just did a couple of samples of single stage paint and base/clear coat paint. From Sherwin Williams.
I literally can not tell them apart. Would I have a problem if I put clear coat over single stage paint?
I may postpone the paint until I decide it I want a hood scoop and or trunk wing/spoiler

I check the price of PPG paint and they literally want twice as much for their paint as does SW.

This is my third shot as painting this car. Once with color/clear and once with single stage.
Kinda of a semi medium length story. Best left off

Thank you in advance for your help
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They should be very close in appearance by mixing the same color code. To put only clear over cured single stage It would need wet sanded with 800-1000g wet paper. If you are talking about spraying the ss then clearing in a "wet on wet" fashion you need to check the data sheets on that paint to see if it's recommended or not and flash times and procedures. If you don't have the data sheets they may be available online and the paint jobber will most definitely have them. Never been a big fan of Sherwin Williams. The new stuff might be different , but I found the Ultra 7K re-coat sensitive. Also marketed as Martin-senior, and Crossfire. PPG is a pretty user friendly paint Also have lower cost lines. Shopline , omni, not sure what you priced.

Might be a long story, but if your having issues ask away. Maybe myself or others can shed some light, and increase your chances for success.

look here Product Data Sheets SDS MSDS | Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes

Wealth of info on the sheets

What color are you painting?
 
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I'm no paint expert but am wondering if SW has a tech line where you can pick there brains re: your questions and maybe try and locate some good body/paint shops that specifically shoot similar products and pose the questions to them.
 
if you cant tell difference between clear and SS, I would do SS any day. I have had so many clear coat checked cars that were fine mechanically but looked like $hit that bombed in value that it sickens me. I dont know if its the CA water color formulation that they use out here or that OEMs are mandated to use but they suck balls.
 
The acrylic urethane single stage from TCP global can be cleared over, the acrylic enamel should not be. the tech sheet should be able to tell you.
 
I'd go with the ppg. You get what you pay for. We always primed, painted twice and then cleared it. Don't go cheap on your paint or you will regret it. There is a guy here in town that had a fresh painted car when I got here. It sits in front of his shop for sale. Ben 3 or four years and the paint is faded bad and does not look good. He put it down good just used crappy paint imo
 
Personally I'll be calling my old boss from Illinois and having him custom mix my colors for me.
 
Pawned said:
Here is a question to all your body guys and gals.

1971 Plymouth Duster.
I just did a couple of samples of single stage paint and base/clear coat paint. From Sherwin Williams.
I literally can not tell them apart. Would I have a problem if I put clear coat over single stage paint?
I may postpone the paint until I decide it I want a hood scoop and or trunk wing/spoiler

I check the price of PPG paint and they literally want twice as much for their paint as does SW.

This is my third shot as painting this car. Once with color/clear and once with single stage.
Kinda of a semi medium length story. Best left off

Thank you in advance for your help
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Sherwin Williams is GOOD product,sold it under Napa's "Martin Senour" line..... There is a bunch of clear coat,in their single stage metallics.. How much experience ,have you had painting "single stage" metallics?.. That's huge... Also the color mismatches off their secondary line,are awful (as of '06...) The solvent based primarily baseline base coat,is sweet... (Sometimes the clears were too amber for whites,and factory three stage pearl matched) I like the equivalence of the Tec system ,nowadays...) The secondary "Crossfire ,in Martin Senour",is too close in price,to deal with the differences anymore....
 
Phily said:
I'd go with the ppg. You get what you pay for. We always primed, painted twice and then cleared it. Don't go cheap on your paint or you will regret it. There is a guy here in town that had a fresh painted car when I got here. It sits in front of his shop for sale. Ben 3 or four years and the paint is faded bad and does not look good. He put it down good just used crappy paint imo
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Although I'd agree that you normally get what you pay for (and there is no arguing that PPG is great paint - I've used it), I can highly recommend at least one reasonably priced alternative. I painted my 69 Barracuda with F8 Ivy Green BC CC from TCP Global's house brand paint, and the results are stunning. TCP's paint was a little less than half of Dupont or PPG, and the quality is very good. It sprays, covers, flows and polishes as well as any other paint I have ever used.
 
If going with a solid color single stage is fine. Single stage is also easier to blend if an area ever gets damaged or scratched. However if your going metallic in my opinion there is no better option than bc/cc. Dont fret bc/cc is blendable too but its a little trickier than single stage. The issue with single stage is it's basically a economy price paint. Its mainly designed for cost effectiveness to be at minimum while still providing a protective finish. There will never be a better finish than bc/cc period. That goes without saying that a paint job is only as good as the body work and proper prep before painting.

Asking preferred paint brands is like asking favorite motor oil, filters, plugs etc.

In my opinion there isnt a better product than RM Diamont base coat paired with Glasurit clear. But do what your budget permits. If you feel more comfortable with one more than the other than stick with it. Whatever you do stay far away from water base.

May be just me but when i think of Sherman Williams i think of house paint lol
 
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I used the cheap ppg delfleet urethane single stage, covers great, dries quick, and it lasted down very smooth...if I was crazy about it I would buff it but it looks good enough for me.

the nice thing about single stage is if you ever get a scratch or something you can touch it up and buff it to blend it back in
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Color matters here. What are you going with?
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The little picture on the left is the car when I bought it. It had A TON of bondo over it and they used Sherwin Williams, Dimension paint. Last year I tore off all the bondo (literally) cut out the rust, welded in new metal, pulled out a couple dents and then applied the bondo as sparingly as possible.
Except the roof, when I stripped off the paint and bondo, the rust made it look like the surface of the moon. Apparently, the car came, new, with a vynal roof.
So I had to do lots of work to make it look good, without 1/2" of bondo it had on it.
(Some of the paint came off in huge chunks. the top of the fender came off as one piece, about 4" x 30 some inches long. You could still smell the chemicals in it.
Sufficed to say, the previous paint job, put on, to fool the next buyer, was absolutely terrible.)


I got to the point that I could not see any problems so I painted it with the SS paint. Same color.
For the past year I saw every little divot and dent, scratch and wave that I missed last year.
Being winter again, (in Phoenix, AZ) I tore into the body again and fixed as many of the flaws I missed last winter.
I have done a good body work job, this time (small details). Although when I primed the first time I saw a bunch of tiny problems, so I fixed them. I primed again a couple days ago. I can still see a couple of tiny flaws, but enough is enough. I am now ready for paint. Yesterday, I cut a couple small pieces of metal and painted them with the paints I had left over.
Which brings me to where I am now.... I plan to stay with the same color as the picture. It was factory Gold, so I am staying with it so the color matches the fender tag
 
If thats the case then i would just use what you painted it woth the first time. A lot better chance of it agreeing with the paint thats already on there. Certain paints tend to not agree with each other. Also if you use the same brand you used before the color should match exactly as long as they add the correct amount of tints per the paint codes ratios. If swapping to another brand there may be a slight difference in appearance depending on color differences of that particular brands tints.
 
If he's already used single stage i wouldnt start putting bc/cc on it. It wont blend with the single stage very well. Prep your area back and when you spray it just blend outward from the spot. Color sand it and buff. Should blend perfectly. Do not start putting bc/cc over single stage or a car thats already been painted with single stage unless you plan on doing a full respray
 
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To the op, did you strip the paint off that you could still smell chemical? If adhesion is questionable of if it's soft it all needs off. If your fist paint job was a catalyzed paint shouldn't be a problem putting whatever over it. By the 3rd paint job and tons of primer mil thickness is becoming a problem, But I too would stay with BC/CC. Easier for the novice. Single stage Metallics are almost impossible to color sand and buff. They tend to break coat and you'll end up with a splotchy mess.
 
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GeorgeH said:
To the op, did you strip the paint off that you could still smell chemical? If adhesion is questionable of if it's soft it all needs off. If your fist paint job was a catalyzed paint shouldn't be a problem putting whatever over it. By the 3rd paint job and tons of primer mil thickness is becoming a problem, But I too would stay with BC/CC. Easier for the novice. Single stage Metallics are almost impossible to color sand and buff. They tend to break coat and you'll end up with a splotchy mess.
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The fool that I bought the car from, painted it to hide the flaws. (I guess he was no fool, I bought the car) It was his paint job that came off in huge chips.
I just got back from the paint store. I went with the Single Stage. This is not a show car by any stretch of the imagine. It will look plenty good. I removed most of the color and and some places down to the metal.
I have 3 coats of K2 primer on it now.
Done properly, I might add.

I knew I was paying a higher price for the car. I wanted it and I bought it for a project for me to do. I have spent almost 3.5 years on it. Mechanically, the only thing I did not touch, (yet) is the differential.
It runs perfectly. I also did a complete rewire. I made my own wire looms. I have made a bunch of improvements over the OEM wiring. I have documented every thing I did and changed.

So far I have had 3.5 years of enjoyment, working on the car. If by chance, I ever finish the car. I may have to shoot myself or find a new project.

Being a chronic pain patient, I find I am in quite a bit less pain when I am working on the car. Sitting down doing nothing, is extremely painful. I go out to do something on the car every morning between 6 and 7, just to get the joints moving and lubricated. It is a project car and physical therapy car
 
I used Naxon paint on the interior of my Barracuda and it really was easy to work with. Single stage was only $130 for a gallon. I have also used TCP, but liked this better. It came from a local parts store. I carried a small part in to match and it came out really well.
 
Tadams said:
I used Naxon paint on the interior of my Barracuda and it really was easy to work with. Single stage was only $130 for a gallon. I have also used TCP, but liked this better. It came from a local parts store. I carried a small part in to match and it came out really well.
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I have thought of repainting the inside of the car. But that is down the road a couple years
 
I have mine ready to paint the exterior in the spring hopefully. Good luck with your project
 
As bad as the first coat I put on looked, that is how nice the 2nd coat looks. Heck, I may have found a new profession (yea, right). I will be putting on the 3rd coat, directly. I do not think any additional coats of paint will be necessary. Then a 24 hours cure and on to Cut and Buff
 
Pawned said:
As bad as the first coat I put on looked, that is how nice the 2nd coat looks. Heck, I may have found a new profession (yea, right). I will be putting on the 3rd coat, directly. I do not think any additional coats of paint will be necessary. Then a 24 hours cure and on to Cut and Buff
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So what did you end up using, single stage or B/C?
 
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