Very last one in the world (I hope) I'll ever have to assemble

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67Dart273

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The "in house" drive system for the chairs is going obsolete. This is the VERY last PSM (power seating module) which interfaces with the "drive module" (the "brains" of the chair). The PSM is for joystick controlled seating options, tilt, recline, elevate, among other options. These are not particularly relaxing to assemble. This one here is THE LAST one that is possible to build due to lack of parts on hand and "going obsolete."

lastpsm.jpg
 
I always find it interesting to look into the background of a photo, in this case you can see the detail and tedium involved. What is in the white bottle with the chrome cap?
 
Now REALLY boring soldering bypass caps to terminals. Three for each module, so 90 only accomodates 30 moduels

bypasscaps.JPG
 
Yes. Flux is old Kester 44. We dilute it 1 part 44 to 2 parts isopropyl

Solder is Kester Sn96.5AG03CU51.1%. "It was a learning curve."

Reason we use it as I understand, is that we have sold a few chairs overseas, and Europe demands Pb free. I'm not certified, I've no idea what the current law is on this type of thing. For my own use, "lead"

The irony, is that just before I interviewed for this job, I'd found (new to me) a couple of Metcal soldering stations on local C/L. Got two complete ones for 50 bucks ea. If I'd known how cool they are and what they are worth, I'd bought all 7 or 8 that he had.

And.........it turns out the company uses Metcal which is what you see there

However, tips/ elements are a bit expensive. I still have some different Weller stuff, and still use that for my own stuff
 
I always find it interesting to look into the background of a photo, in this case you can see the detail and tedium involved. What is in the white bottle with the chrome cap?

That looks to be an alcohol blotting jar. Push down on the top with a rag and a blot of alcohol inside comes out and wets it. Alcohol cleans off solder flux, which is corrosive.
 
This is a "no clean" flux. You just leave it in place.
 
The "in house" drive system for the chairs is going obsolete. This is the VERY last PSM (power seating module) which interfaces with the "drive module" (the "brains" of the chair). The PSM is for joystick controlled seating options, tilt, recline, elevate, among other options. These are not particularly relaxing to assemble. This one here is THE LAST one that is possible to build due to lack of parts on hand and "going obsolete."

View attachment 1715640954

Well how bout THAT? I knew from how you talked that it wouldn't be long, but I didn't think it'd be this quick. Drink you a stiff drink in celebration! lol
 
Well I do have more drive modules to assemble. I've lost track, 30 or so I guess. This module here is not always used, on chairs with "power seating." Some chairs the owner wants direct activated toggle switches. There are several options there. This system integrates with the main module, and operates the seating devices through the joystick.

Here's a photo of the hand control / joystick I found on Egag. the cropped photo shows the LED indicators that illustrate seating selection. Of course only what is "on" the chair works. The indicator at top left can do a number of things, the rest are headrest tilt, back recline. Lighting up the seat and back together gives you tilt, and the legrests can be set up to come up as one or independently. The indicator on the lower side by the wheels represents elevate

handcontrolcs.jpg


handcontrol1.jpg


Elevate-----------------

 
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Omg... Bounder? What an overpriced very expensive piece of junk. Very heavy but very fast If you were on a level hard surface or going downhill. Darn thing won’t go uphill in the grass. I was so glad to sell that $35,000 piece of junk for cheap and buy another wheelchair that was 1/3 of the price of a new bounder, but much more reliable. Joystick joystick wasn’t very precise and motion designs has a much better chair that is more functional. Nothing against you, I’m sure you’re doing good work.
 
Please just step off, K? I actually tried to step in and get this resolved for you the LAST time this came up which is right after I went to work there. I owe the company no loyalty, nor do I owe you
 
Something tells me I wont find any butt connectors, vampire clamps, or tape joints in the electrical system on your car?


Im always careful when I mention things on customers car. Yesterday I had a guy come in for an estimate on a new steering rack.

I mentioned "you also have some questionable wiring that should be addressed." (There were about 15 yellow wires all taped together in what looked like a snake eating a rabbit.)

He responded, "oh no. I did the wiring my self. Its all good."

:)
 
Yeh butt connectors, heat shrink. Even temporary tape. But you won't find stuff that fails, nor skotchloks or wire nuts LOL etc.

Frankly I've never been "pretty" on my own wiring. But I just make it WORK. The real VERY real problem for me is I've finally gotten old enough and damaged enough now, that crawling around to make stuff "perfect" is just not gonna happen. Getting involved with "boats" did not help LOL
 
We use Metcal's at work, typically STTC 700 F tips.

I use an 836 tip a lot. they are amazing. the NO10 wires in the photos were soldered to those relay terminals with an 836. All of the cable connections to the boards going out to various points are done with one. And it's a chisel, you can turn it "edge" wise and get down onto smaller pads without stopping to swap tips

Biggest beef I have with Metcal is they are a bit expensive, so I don't use it much for my own stuff. I mostly use the old Weller. I've forgotten the series. I have one controller is dual iron and digital readout. It works pretty well, even though much larger handle than the metcal.

Also stuck back in the photos is the old Pace desolder unit. I rarely use it anymore. It was pretty fancy when new. has vacuum/ pressure, two controlled iron outputs, and a "motor" output I guess was a flexible cable drive. I've never hand any of whatever that was

EDIT had to finally look it up. Was called a "minichine"

Found this

"minichine" is a word made up by PACE to describe the motorized functions of the repair station.

The minichine output on the PACE is a mechanical output. It is directly coupled to a small high speed motor shaft inside the repair station. A handheld rotary tool connects to the minichine coupler. The rotary tool supplied with the PACE is the equivalent to a Dremel rotary tool, except the tool has no electrical connection. Instead, it connects to the PACE through a 3' long flexible shaft. The PACE rotary tool uses several different sized collets to hold a variety of drills, burrs, grinders, polishers, cutters, etc. All this was aimed at repairing/modifying pcbs.
 
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