Voltage changes 12 to 14 volts constantly

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Just trying to help out and this is a quick and easy way to check and verify good power and grounds under load to the ecm , which it must have. A lot of guys don't have a good dvom .

Beyond that it may just be a nature of the beast with a modern ecm in these older vehicles. They rely on inputs such as battery temperature and you really would need a scan tool to check to make sure everything input wise is correct and also see if there is any codes related to the charging system.
I would contact Hotwire and see if this is common for this setup.
I've been in contact with them and he feels its still a ground issue.. I cant get any better of a ground than what i have now. All new ground wires all going to bare metal or the battery. And still the same issue. Its really annoying driving at night with the lights goin dim and bright. This is my only issue with this whole swap
 
I've actually thought about this some. This might be what is called a "ground loop." Some ground systems are fussy. You cannot go wrong with what is known as "single point grounding." This basically is just what it says...........everything is grounded to one central point.

This means if the battery is in the trunk, you need a separate ground all the way to the engine block, say, the rear of the head. Take off from a bolt nearby and jumper from there to the body.

If the battery is up front, ground to block as per usual, and take off a bolt nearby and jumper to the body, say, with a no4 starter (ring to ring) wire.


Run an ISOLATED ground from that very same single point on the block to the ECU.

The only other thing I can offer is to dig up an original OEM manual, and review how EXACTLY this was grounded originally. In other words trace down just where the ground went originally.

"Ground loops" can be VERY troublesome, in just this sort of situation........where you have unknowns. In an OEM designed and tested system, this has (most of the time) been checked, checked on, designed out. Audio systems and instrumentation are another example. Anything that uses fussy, delicate, low level signals and sensors is prone to this kind of thing.

I don't have acess to these late OEM manuals. If anyone knows (maybe one of the truck forums) where you can download one, that would be great.
 
I've actually thought about this some. This might be what is called a "ground loop." Some ground systems are fussy. You cannot go wrong with what is known as "single point grounding." This basically is just what it says...........everything is grounded to one central point.

This means if the battery is in the trunk, you need a separate ground all the way to the engine block, say, the rear of the head. Take off from a bolt nearby and jumper from there to the body.

If the battery is up front, ground to block as per usual, and take off a bolt nearby and jumper to the body, say, with a no4 starter (ring to ring) wire.


Run an ISOLATED ground from that very same single point on the block to the ECU.

The only other thing I can offer is to dig up an original OEM manual, and review how EXACTLY this was grounded originally. In other words trace down just where the ground went originally.

"Ground loops" can be VERY troublesome, in just this sort of situation........where you have unknowns. In an OEM designed and tested system, this has (most of the time) been checked, checked on, designed out. Audio systems and instrumentation are another example. Anything that uses fussy, delicate, low level signals and sensors is prone to this kind of thing.

I don't have acess to these late OEM manuals. If anyone knows (maybe one of the truck forums) where you can download one, that would be great.
Tried all this and still no luck. When im cruizn it stays at 14.2 soon as i let off the gas it starts to bounce.
 
Is the case of the computer grounded good to sheet metal?
 
I'm about out of ideas here on this. You are now still running the integrated regulator in the computer, or have you gone to a separate regulator?
 
I'm about out of ideas here on this. You are now still running the integrated regulator in the computer, or have you gone to a separate regulator?
Computer is grounded to clean metal.. Yes it still has the computer regulating the alternator.. Can the be flashed out and run an external regulator?
 
I'm not sure you really have to change anything, but I'm not sure. It will generate error codes, if that's a problem.
 
Maybe you have read this already, but here is a little info from the factory service manual.

The charging system is turned on and off with the ignition switch. The system is on when the engine is running and the ASD relay is energized. When the ASD relay is on, voltage is supplied to the ASD relay sense circuit at the PCM. This voltage is connected through the PCM and supplied to one of the generator field terminals (Gen. Source +) at the back of the generator.
The amount of direct current produced by the generator is controlled by the EVR (field control) circuitry contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the second rotor field terminal and ground.
A battery temperature sensor, located in the battery tray housing, is used to sense battery temperature. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. This is done by cycling the ground path to control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The PCM then compensates and regulates generator current output accordingly.
All vehicles are equipped with On-Board Diagnostics (OBD). All OBD-sensed systems, including EVR (field control) circuitry, are monitored by the PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in electronic memory for certain failures it detects.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. It is actually a voltage regulating circuit located within the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) (within the ECM for diesel engines). The EVR is not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.

OPERATION
The amount of direct current produced by the generator is controlled by EVR circuitry contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the generators second rotor field terminal and its ground.
Voltage is regulated by cycling the ground path to control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The EVR circuitry monitors system line voltage (B+) and battery temperature (refer to Battery Temperature Sensor for more information).
It then determines a target charging voltage. If sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts or lower than the target voltage, the PCM grounds the field winding until sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts above target voltage. A circuit in the PCM cycles the ground side of the generator field up to 100 times per second (100Hz), but has the capability to ground the field control wire 100% of the time (full field) to achieve the target voltage. If the charging rate cannot be monitored (limp-in), a duty cycle of 25% is used by the PCM in order to have some generator output. Also refer to Charging System Operation for additional information.

Do you have the OBD connector hooked up to check for codes?
 
I did a little more browsing in the service manual and came across this DTC
I'm not sure if it applies since it says it is monitored above 1157 RPM.

P2503-CHARGING SYSTEM OUTPUT LOW

POSSIBLE CAUSES

EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE BATTERY POSITIVE CIRCUIT
EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE CASE GROUND
(K20) GEN FIELD CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
(K20) GEN FIELD CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
(K20) GEN FIELD CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
(Z20) GEN GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
GENERATOR
PCM
 
You may want to hook up a scan tool and see what the PCM WANTS.
most Chrysler PCM charging systems are designed to control the system between about 13.1 and 14.6. It will actually select the voltage and can make a set point anywhere between that voltage range.
So example 13.2 will be alright if that's where the PCM wants it. It is to help preventing sulfating in the battery. Why charge the battery at a full 14.4 volts all day long if the battery is fully charged???
 
When im at a cruizn speed the gauge doesnt move. At about 1000 rpms seems to have the issue.. My battery is mounted in the trunk.. Could i be loosing resistance in the cable? I believe its a 2 gauge wire.its been in the car for about 10 yrs now.. I haven't gotten any codes from the computer so far..
 
i was having huge alternator problems. i thought regulator too.. i went through 2 new, new style and 2 new , old style regulators, nothing changed. my problem was the wire i had powering the regulator. i ran an 8 gauge straight from the battery as a test, problem solved.. i ended up using a dedicated 10 gauge from my A/C fuse.. still no issues
good luck...
 
i was having huge alternator problems. i thought regulator too.. i went through 2 new, new style and 2 new , old style regulators, nothing changed. my problem was the wire i had powering the regulator. i ran an 8 gauge straight from the battery as a test, problem solved.. i ended up using a dedicated 10 gauge from my A/C fuse.. still no issues
good luck...
How r u hooking up thenold style regulator to the new style hemi?
 
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