Voltage limiter - help needed

[mflynn]

Nearing the end of resto project - real close to finishing up, but can't figure out my gauges. I've read a lot about the voltage limiter but don't know if it's built in, and if not where it is and what it looks like. I do know this - bench tested my gauges and they work. Put them in the car tonight, fired it up and the fuel pegged (to 3/4 full, even though I know it's nearly empty), and the fuel/alternator/oil pressure/temp cluster started smoking. So this tells me that the voltage limiter is either missing or not working. Looking for help pointing out where this thing is, etc. and suggestions for how to fix/replace. BTW: '68 Cuda with original gauges. I've attached a phot of the backside of the gauges. Is the canister looking thing the limiter?

Also, second question: anyone know how to hook up the "alternator" gauge?

 

[67Dart273]

The IVR is built in on yours. The "clue" is the 3 terminals on the fuel gauge. The third pin sends the EVR power out to operate the other gauges. So the fuel gauge has

1 terminal is "ignition run" 12V going into the IVR inside the gauge.

2 terminal is for the sender

3 terminal is the IVR power coming out to the other gauges. The fuel gauge gets power from this terminal, internally

-----------------------------

Ammeter? What is the question? There are only two wires in the enitire dash harness that are obvious........a huge red and a huge black, with eyelet terminals. They hook to the ammeter studs. They should be marked on the cluster, but if you get them backwards you can always reverse them.

 

[mvh]

Search for the thread or threads about replacing the IVR -- Instrument Voltage Regulator. There are photos showing the fuel gauge opened up and instructions on how to solder in a solid state replacement. I will be trying this as soon as I get a break in the show schedule to take the dash apart.

 

[70dustah]

You might want to contact member redfish for a solid state ivr. I had him modify my rallye fuel gauge, convert amp to volt gauge, and I performed the MAD electrical bypass. Well worth it!!! Also might want to add a tach in that blank hole, I think rte engineering offers a drop in 8k tach for it. If you get stuck, just PM me, as I have already been down that road already

 

[RedFish]

The little round can thing is a noise suppression capasitor. It prevents a pop noise in radio speakers generated by the mechanical limiters. A solid state regulator doesn't make a pop noise.
The DeMonIVR regulator was designed specifly for this instrument panel/ application and is the only one that will mount right where the noise cap' is removed using that same screw.
NOTE to the powers that be, No I didn't just advertise/promote myself. DeMonIVR now belongs to Instrument Specialties Incorporated.

 

[mflynn]

The IVR is built in on yours. The "clue" is the 3 terminals on the fuel gauge. The third pin sends the EVR power out to operate the other gauges. So the fuel gauge has

1 terminal is "ignition run" 12V going into the IVR inside the gauge.

2 terminal is for the sender

3 terminal is the IVR power coming out to the other gauges. The fuel gauge gets power from this terminal, internally

-----------------------------

Ammeter? What is the question? There are only two wires in the enitire dash harness that are obvious........a huge red and a huge black, with eyelet terminals. They hook to the ammeter studs. They should be marked on the cluster, but if you get them backwards you can always reverse them.

Thanks! Great info - on the ammeter question though, I rewired the car with a Ron Francis Mopar Access 24/7 system, so my original harness is buried in my shed soemplace. Any ideas for where those red and black wires would be coming from in my current set up?

 

[mflynn]

Search for the thread or threads about replacing the IVR -- Instrument Voltage Regulator. There are photos showing the fuel gauge opened up and instructions on how to solder in a solid state replacement. I will be trying this as soon as I get a break in the show schedule to take the dash apart.

Great advice - thanks! I did as you suggested, found some great stuff by RTE and I bought their solid state limiter. Looks like a pretty easy fix.

 

[mflynn]

You might want to contact member redfish for a solid state ivr. I had him modify my rallye fuel gauge, convert amp to volt gauge, and I performed the MAD electrical bypass. Well worth it!!! Also might want to add a tach in that blank hole, I think rte engineering offers a drop in 8k tach for it. If you get stuck, just PM me, as I have already been down that road already

Thanks and I have a tach for the hole. That was my victory last night - I tested in the car and it's working. I'll put it all together when I get the solid state regulator installed.

 

[mflynn]

The little round can thing is a noise suppression capasitor. It prevents a pop noise in radio speakers generated by the mechanical limiters. A solid state regulator doesn't make a pop noise.
The DeMonIVR regulator was designed specifly for this instrument panel/ application and is the only one that will mount right where the noise cap' is removed using that same screw.
NOTE to the powers that be, No I didn't just advertise/promote myself. DeMonIVR now belongs to Instrument Specialties Incorporated.

Redfish: great to hear from you - you've been very helpful I in the past! I had already ordered the RTE solid state limiter (see above) before I read this. I suppose I can ditch the capacitor since I'm installing an amp to power my speakers, with power coming directly off the batterY?

 

[RedFish]

There are a lot of reasons why we shouldn't attach anything more that quality, hardware secured OEM type terminals to a battery. Main reason... KABOOM ! Battery gasses are explosive.
To add a ring terminal and wire at the starter relay ( again fixed nut and bolt connections ) and proper fuse protecting this added wire is more practical. Less hazardous to your happy motoring.

 

[mflynn]

There are a lot of reasons why we shouldn't attach anything more that quality, hardware secured OEM type terminals to a battery. Main reason... KABOOM ! Battery gasses are explosive.
To add a ring terminal and wire at the starter relay ( again fixed nut and bolt connections ) and proper fuse protecting this added wire is more practical. Less hazardous to your happy motoring.

I should have been clearer - I'm connecting the power to a dedicated junction stud that came with the Ron Franciis harness, not directly from the battery!