W250 engine install woes

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HTMLmopars

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Did a clutch job on my brother's 91 W250. It's a 360 truck. Trying to put the engine back in and can't get it to seat. Get about a half inch between back of the motor and the bell housing and just can't make any progress. Rotating the engine internals doesn't make a difference, shaking it, pushing it, etc.
Are we missing something on the throw out bearing or something? We've confirmed that the new clutch splines line up and the pilot bushing fit over the input shaft prior to install on the engine (it should change slightly when installed so this isnt 100% perfect)
 
Yeah. You're missin you shouldda pulled the engine and trans together. That's the only way I wouldda ever done that job.
 
Pull the drive shaft.
One guy turns the trans output shaft while in gear.

It will fall into place.
 
Last edited:
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah. You're missin you shouldda pulled the engine and trans together. That's the only way I wouldda ever done that job.
Click to expand...
Whole transfer case part kinda made it seem easier to pull just the motor. If I woulda known how it wouldn't go back together.....
 
68Valiant225 said:
Did a clutch job on my brother's 91 W250. It's a 360 truck. Trying to put the engine back in and can't get it to seat. Get about a half inch between back of the motor and the bell housing and just can't make any progress. Rotating the engine internals doesn't make a difference, shaking it, pushing it, etc.
Are we missing something on the throw out bearing or something? We've confirmed that the new clutch splines line up and the pilot bushing fit over the input shaft prior to install on the engine (it should change slightly when installed so this isnt 100% perfect)
Click to expand...
1)Did you use a clutch alignment tool?
With the pressure plate mounting bolts started and the clutch alignment tool centering the disk tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts evenly while centering the disk, put some upward pressure on the clutch disk as it will drop itself on the alignment tool as low as possible. You want the disk absolutely centered so the alignment tool sides in and out with zero friction.
2) Mount the bell housing to the engine. That way you don’t need to worry about threading the pilot shaft through the throw out bearing when setting the engine in place.
Get four bolts the same diameter and thread pitch as the transmission to bell housing bolts, maybe 4 inches long.
Cut the heads off of them, I use a cut off wheel or a hack saw to put a slice in the ends so they can be turned with a straight screw driver if they happen to get stuck. Use those long studs as dowels to align the bell housing to the transmission.
3) I work with slants and I leave the motor mounts off during the engine set process and install the mounts on the motor - K frame after the tranny to bell housing bolts are tightened. This may or may not work with a v8 truck.
 
68Valiant225 said:
Whole transfer case part kinda made it seem easier to pull just the motor. If I woulda known how it wouldn't go back together.....
Click to expand...

It's not too late. You can pull it, put it all together and put the whole thing back in. That's always been easiest for me, rather than rastlin with tryin to line it all up with just the engine. I've done it that way, but it's a PITA.
 
my68barracuda said:
1)Did you use a clutch alignment tool?
With the pressure plate mounting bolts started and the clutch alignment tool centering the disk tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts evenly while centering the disk, put some upward pressure on the clutch disk as it will drop itself on the alignment tool as low as possible. You want the disk absolutely centered so the alignment tool sides in and out with zero friction.
2) Mount the bell housing to the engine. That way you don’t need to worry about threading the pilot shaft through the throw out bearing when setting the engine in place.
Get four bolts the same diameter and thread pitch as the transmission to bell housing bolts, maybe 4 inches long.
Cut the heads off of them, I use a cut off wheel or a hack saw to put a slice in the ends so they can be turned with a straight screw driver if they happen to get stuck. Use those long studs as dowels to align the bell housing to the transmission.
3) I work with slants and I leave the motor mounts off during the engine set process and install the mounts on the motor - K frame after the tranny to bell housing bolts are tightened. This may or may not work with a v8 truck.
Click to expand...

Motor mounts are off
As far as I can tell, the bell bolts into the trans from the inside, so I can't bolt it to the engine, because the flywheel takes up all of the real estate.
Did use an alignment tool, but might try this technique
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah. You're missin you shouldda pulled the engine and trans together. That's the only way I wouldda ever done that job.
Click to expand...
Rusty, you need to remember the truck a833 transmissions have that long tail shaft on them. Adds a challenge to the downward in inward navigation process.
When I did the engine pull in April on the D150 to change the clutch I pulled the engine by itself. Then went back an pulled the bell housing and put the bell on the engine for the install. Worked well that way.
 
my68barracuda said:
1)Did you use a clutch alignment tool?
With the pressure plate mounting bolts started and the clutch alignment tool centering the disk tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts evenly while centering the disk, put some upward pressure on the clutch disk as it will drop itself on the alignment tool as low as possible. You want the disk absolutely centered so the alignment tool sides in and out with zero friction.
2) Mount the bell housing to the engine. That way you don’t need to worry about threading the pilot shaft through the throw out bearing when setting the engine in place.
Get four bolts the same diameter and thread pitch as the transmission to bell housing bolts, maybe 4 inches long.
Cut the heads off of them, I use a cut off wheel or a hack saw to put a slice in the ends so they can be turned with a straight screw driver if they happen to get stuck. Use those long studs as dowels to align the bell housing to the transmission.
3) I work with slants and I leave the motor mounts off during the engine set process and install the mounts on the motor - K frame after the tranny to bell housing bolts are tightened. This may or may not work with a v8 truck.
Click to expand...


Wow.

That should be a sticky.

I mostly use swearing.
 
my68barracuda said:
Rusty, you need to remember the truck a833 transmissions have that long tail shaft on them. Adds a challenge to the downward in inward navigation process.
When I did the engine pull in April on the D150 to change the clutch I pulled the engine by itself. Then went back an pulled the bell housing and put the bell on the engine for the install. Worked well that way.
Click to expand...

I know...I have one. Behind a 331 Hemi. lol It's LONG
 
68Valiant225 said:
Motor mounts are off
As far as I can tell, the bell bolts into the trans from the inside, so I can't bolt it to the engine, because the flywheel takes up all of the real estate.
Did use an alignment tool, but might try this technique
Click to expand...
You got me there. V’s must be different.
 
68Valiant225 said:
Motor mounts are off
As far as I can tell, the bell bolts into the trans from the inside, so I can't bolt it to the engine, because the flywheel takes up all of the real estate.
Did use an alignment tool, but might try this technique
Click to expand...

How CLOSE are you to getting them together? Sometimes, you can hook up the clutch linkage, depress the clutch to disengage it and bam it'll go together. Sometimes. LOL
 
68Valiant225 said:
It's a 4wd pickup, I know not the right forum, but that's why it's different. Y'all are just the most knowledgeable Mopar people across almost every platform so that's why I'm here
Click to expand...

Is it a divorced transfer case? That would make it a little easier.
 
Well I think I have it figured out. McLeod sent a pilot bearing that's almost twice the depth of the one that came out. Pretty sure we were bottoming the splines on the input shaft out on it
 
68Valiant225 said:
Well I think I have it figured out. McLeod sent a pilot bearing that's almost twice the depth of the one that came out. Pretty sure we were bottoming the splines on the input shaft out on it
Click to expand...

That might do it!
 
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