***Wanted***OEM Exhaust Manifolds for a 318

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Gottem, BRB, I'll post pictures. There from a '79 Dodge Magnum. (AKA Cordoba)

Ops! My bad, a pair are a 1975 vintage, smae stuff though. 1 '79.
Diverter valve flap works freely.

Make an offer and I'll weigh it up to your address that you can PM me if you want them.

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rumblefish360 said:
Gottem, BRB, I'll post pictures. There from a '79 Dodge Magnum. (AKA Cordoba)

Ops! My bad, a pair are a 1975 vintage, smae stuff though. 1 '79.
Diverter valve flap works freely.

Make an offer and I'll weigh it up to your address that you can PM me if you want them.
Click to expand...
Hello Rumblefish360 and thanks for the reply. I have got to admit, I'm not familiar with stock 318 manifolds. I would need just the best of the pair.(Right and Left). What is a diverter flap on the drivers side manifold?:read2: and will these fit ok on my 74 dart swinger? Sorry for all the questions, I've always had headers on my vehicles. I know these will definately be much cheaper than the TTI's.:toothy5: The problem I'm having now is that the #5 and #7 plug wire are way too close the set of hooker headers I now have on the car. So I want to go back to the stock exhaust headers(old school) or possibly still the TTI's. Your opinion is appreciated and others may join in as well.
 
The diverter valve is closed during warm up of the engine. It's job is to divert exhaust up inot the intake manifold in order to help warm up the engine and intake track for better drivablity.

Keep your headers for power.
The problem with ignition wires to close to the header pipes is solved with 2 things.

1. 90* boot heads. You'll need to order a few up and have a wire crimping tool. MSD has all of these items as well as other manufactures.

2. Sleaves to protect the wires. Many companies offer there fire sleaves. Thermo Tech is one such company.

Look them up at Summit racing on line; http://www.summitracing.com/

I'm not sure if they'll work, but I would assume so....and that's the key word and problem, assume.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Keep your headers for power.
Click to expand...

Depends.

I made the call to keep manifolds on my Duster after a lot of thought and research. The power gains on a mostly stock engine are negligible and there is something nice about a stock looking bay and never having to worry about tubes rotting out or getting whacked by something in the road or blowing out a header gasket.

GTX is going back to manifolds too, tired of firing up the car and hearing the gaskets blown out again.

You get old and annoyed when stuff doesn't stay fixed.
 
Here is a pic of a pair of factory A-body manifolds off a 74 dated 4-74 note there is no heat riser. Were they all like this?? $40 plus shipping. PM me if interested

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If you're looking for the original '74 castings, you'll need to get the build date for the car. Technically, there are two different LH manifolds that year.....before 4/1/74 and after that date. The difference is the type of heat stove used. The RH was the same, and the photos by T2R9 are correct.....no heat riser. That was the only year they were used in a car. The Vans and PU's also used them but on the left side. The price quoted by T2R9 is a steal! Jump on it!
Mark
 
Thanks everyone for the info. I think I'm first going to try the 45 degree boots. I believe that, plus the thermal sleeves should do the trick. If not, I've noted all the offers that have come in to me. Thanks again for all the info and offers, it is truly appreciated.
 
I have a set from a 1974 plymouth scamp...20 bucks + the ride....Mike...ps...build date on engine is 6-74
 
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